No bleeding hose

[mrdeano]

Has anyone else had major problems bleeding there 2.5 WL Bongo? Apparently it is possible to bleed through the sensor switch, but this is still lower than the header tank.
I have raised the front onto a ramp. Getting really frustrated with this issue. Any help would be appreciated.
I have replaced,
1) The radiator
2) The belts
3) The water pump
4) The thermostat
5) The alternator (nothing to do with the above but I have replaced it due to low voltage)
The heater doesn't work by itself only with fan going, plus blows cold air front, warm air rear.
Taken all hoses off, cleaned and check for blockages
Still getting air coming back through sensor hole when sensor released. You can hear the air escaping.
Getting desperate as only three, I repeat three bottles of Steinlager left in the fridge and can't go any where until problem is remedied. lol

[Northern Bongolow]

try lifting the back end really high, or better take off the large pipe heater feed to the heater circuit,the large one on the header tank and blow hard,that may prime the front heater enough for the water pump to shift the airlock when the engine is run on tick over.

you say it has no bleed hose,is it a ranger head without the T off for the bleed hose fitting.

[mrdeano]

try lifting the back end really high, or better take off the large pipe heater feed to the heater circuit,the large one on the header tank and blow hard,that may prime the front heater enough for the water pump to shift the airlock when the engine is run on tick over.

you say it has no bleed hose,is it a ranger head without the T off for the bleed hose fitting.

Could you explain this a little more please?
Can't say I fancy getting a mouth full of anti freeze.There is water from the heater pipe running from the header tank. It is smaller than the fed pipe from the radiator, say 3/8" or maybe /2" but the feederpipe would be either 3/4" or 1" depends on whether you are an inside man or an outside mesurement person. lol
The pipes under the passenger seat are quite hot, at least going to the rear.But no heat coming past the thermostat on the bottom hose returning back to the radiator.
I am thinking I have a blown head gasket now, though haven't really had the motor running hot or past 12 o'clock.
The gauge usually sits around the 1 o'clock range when traveling, and usually my trips are 45 km's plus on open, but windy and mountainous roads.

Also when I release the sensor gauge, there is always the presence of air/gas,even afer ech bleed start up.

Only owned this Bongo for about two months, a wee bit annoyed.

[maxheadroom]

how about vacuum fill?

you say you have no bleeding pipe, is it cut off or is there no metal pipe for it to connect too?

[B*Witched Blingo]

Could I make a suggestion?

What if you took a picture of your engine passenger side so that people can see if there is a difference between your engine and others. It may help.

Alright I shut up now


Chell

[MountainGoat]

You have asked for help at a bad time. Most of the experts have left or are about to leave for this weekends National Bongo Meet. It will probably be next Monday before anyone can get to the bottom of your problem for you.

Tony

[scanner]

The gauge usually sits around the 1 o'clock range when traveling, and usually my trips are 45 km's plus on open, but windy and mountainous roads.

If the gauge hasn't been modified to give a meaningful reading - something it doesn't do as standard - where is "usually sits" is a work of total fiction.
It will only above move to above "normal" when overheating has already happened.

[mrdeano]

Righto this is what I have done so far
I have raised the front onto a ramp. Getting really frustrated with this issue. Any help would be appreciated.
I have replaced,
1) The radiator
2) The belts
3) The water pump
4) The thermostat
5) The alternator (nothing to do with the above but I have replaced it due to low voltage)
The heater doesn't work by itself only with fan going, plus blows cold air front, warm air rear a/c.
Taken all hoses off, cleaned and check for blockages
Still getting air coming back through sensor hole when sensor released. You can hear the air escaping. This is the only way I seem to be able to bleed the damn thing.
Other ways I have tried.
i) Drained and filled with coolant, squeezed hoses while filing. Let idle with cap off for ten minutes, coolant flowing from header tank so placed a soft drink bottle with end cut off to raise the level plus also tied the over flow hose higher to stop drainage of coolant, turn engine off and it burped for a while then tI topped up with more coolant.
ii) Did same with rad cap on, it burped inside header tank.
iii) Tried bleeding through top radiator hose at inlet manifold.
iv) Have also tried bleeding at thermostat,no luck there as plenty of coolant both sides of housing.
v) Taken bongo for a drive (200 metres) engine starts to heat up to the 1 o'clock mark. Not prepared to over heat engine.
All was good until I replaced parts, I have had it up on blocks for over a week now,just as well I am on leave lol have another two weeks to go.
Engine usually is about 10 or 11 o'clock when operating normally and I've had a couple big drives over mountain passes (950 metres above sea level) where the temp stays the same, all with old radiator etc. No over heating.
could it have a blown head gasket, the rental firm I bought it off says no way as they put a replacement engine in 10,000 km's ago.
It had a slight squeal which is why I replaced water pump, when I checked it a little play on the pump pulley, but this was not the reason for the squeal, it was the alternator bearing, should have put the meter on that first.
Just gone out after leaving it overnight, coolant level is okay, but there was still air/gas in the sensor hole.
I replaced thermostat, even put the old one back in, then put the new one in again fer I drilled a 4 mm hole in it to see if that would make a difference. It hasn't. I tested them both not once but three times to make sure they both work.
I torqued the pump to 118 inch pounds (about 10 foot lbs) with a 1/4" drive torque, did this by trial an error on a couple other bolts inan old alloy block to get an idea of how much pressure to place on the bolts, making sure it was not over tight, but firm as we both know alloy is very soft in a heavy hand and torque is better than a broken bolt.
I still have a head of hair, but for how long I don't know.

Getting desperate as only one, I repeat one bottle of Steinlager left in the fridge and can't go any where until problem is fixed.
Hope someone can shed some light on the subject
Really appreciate all your guys help suggestions.
Cheers
Deano

[mrdeano]

How do I post a photo or three on here please?

[scanner]

You have to host them somewhere like Photobucket and then post the <image> links from there.

[mrdeano]

I'll do that his after noon hopefully.
Thanks.

[MountainGoat]

The instructions are in the Guidance Section at the top of the Forum.

Tony

[jaylee]

The heater doesn't work by itself only with fan going, plus blows cold air front, warm air rear a/c.



Getting desperate as only one, I repeat one bottle of Steinlager left in the fridge and can't go any where until problem is fixed.
Hope someone can shed some light on the subject
Really appreciate all your guys help suggestions.
Cheers
Deano

I feel your pain Deano.. I'm no real expert on your air lock problem & all the experts are at the big national bash at the moment!

But, i can help with your rear heater A/C conundrum...
Providing yer aircon is fully charged & working..? The rear fan blows air past the A/C condenser first.. There's a vertical flap that directs air from the fan when open, even with the A/C on it will trap the heat from the rear heater matrix & direct it through the vents..

When the flap is closed against the heater matrix cool air flows past unhindered to the vents.. Air is recirculated from the rear of the van, pulling in from the center grill in the panel & redirected to either the small vents either side, the roof vents, or both.

See here.. http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsm ... mgno=.html The part just above 61-A09 is the flap i'm talking about!

I may be just that the flap is NOT pulling & sitting properly against the heater matrix (part 61-A10) & cold & warm air is mixing? 61-P10 is the A/C cooler in front of it.
You may just need to adjust or even reconnect the cable that controls the flap position??

Hope this helps a bit!!?

[mrdeano]

I take it from the diagram that just in front of the passenger's seat we are looking at the heater from the rear/left hand side?
No over familiar with this Bongo yet, still finding my way around it.
Appreciate your help.

[Doone]

Why hasn't yours got as bleed hose? Is it missing or do you have a Ford Ranger engine, or is there another reason?
The title of this topic is 'no bleed hose' so I'm guessing you obviously can't follow the bleed instructions properly. But I'm posting them here (copied from Haydns post of the forum) in case you haven't seen them. Who knows, it may help.

NOTE.. (Before you start) Get a large funnel and cut the spout so the bleed tube will push up into it nice and tight.. Don't take the bung out of the pipe yet.

1..remove the plastic air scoop from under the bonnet.
2..remove the pressure cap off the expansion tank.
3..remove the pressure cap from the rad and fill to brim if it is not already full.
4..replace rad cap.
5..fill the expansion tank to the FULL line.
6..release the rad cap till coolant overflows and tighten rad cap.
7..top up expansion tank to FULL
8..under the passenger seat ..find the coolant bleed tube...remove the bung and push up into funnel.
9..half fill the funnel with premixed coolant.

Note..by raising/lowering the funnel and adjusting the engine revs you will from now on be able to control the level of the coolant in the header tank & funnel.
At no point from now on allow the funnel to empty or the header tank to drop below FILL.

10..start the engine...switch on heaters.....rev to 2500 for 3 mins....idle for 1 min.
11..keep repeating this cycle until the heaters blow hot and switch the heaters off.
12..carry on with the rev 2500/idle cycle..raising and lowering the funnel...you will have to do this for about 30/40 mins.....UNTILL THE BOTTOM HOSE GETS GOOD AND WARM..(stat open).

Once this happens carry on till all bubbles stop and replace the bleed tube bung (wear gloves..very hot)put the bung in as coolant is flowing out so no air can sneak in.

Top up the tank...replace the tank cap.....go for a drive and keep a eye on coolant levels for a few days....should be o.k. If job was done properly.

THE SECRET IS TO GET THE BOTTOM HOSE HOT WHILST BLEEDING (STAT OPEN)