Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
- gmaczbongo
- Bongolier
- Posts: 345
- Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:31 pm
- Location: Fae Dundee
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
That is almost no veggie at all.
It could also be a dodgy injector, this would give a bit of black smoke usually.
Have you tried a diesel cleaner through the system.
It could also be a dodgy injector, this would give a bit of black smoke usually.
Have you tried a diesel cleaner through the system.
- mikexgough
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 6158
- Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:02 pm
- Location: Cambridgeshire - where the all the Slodgers reside
- Contact:
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Something I was shown.........
ENGINE STALLS
"When the engine stalls on deceleration it is usually an indication of lubrication problems in the pump. The first thing that should be checked is the idle RPM. If it is too low it could put the pump governor in a position where it cannot recover from the deceleration quick enough to keep the engine from stalling.
If the idle is set to the proper RPM, a lubrication fuel additive might be used. In some cases a slight amount of water has passed through the system or an extra dry fuel has been used. This causes the metering valve or plungers & barrels to stick slightly. A lubrication additive in the fuel could solve this problem.
In severe cases where an additive does not work, the pump needs to be torn down and cleaned. In extremely severe cases the metering valve or plungers & barrels may need to be replaced to solve the problem."
As your using Veggie, then I would consider that as a good enough additive to clean the system, so personally I would hazard a guess on the Diesel pump being worn....
ENGINE STALLS
"When the engine stalls on deceleration it is usually an indication of lubrication problems in the pump. The first thing that should be checked is the idle RPM. If it is too low it could put the pump governor in a position where it cannot recover from the deceleration quick enough to keep the engine from stalling.
If the idle is set to the proper RPM, a lubrication fuel additive might be used. In some cases a slight amount of water has passed through the system or an extra dry fuel has been used. This causes the metering valve or plungers & barrels to stick slightly. A lubrication additive in the fuel could solve this problem.
In severe cases where an additive does not work, the pump needs to be torn down and cleaned. In extremely severe cases the metering valve or plungers & barrels may need to be replaced to solve the problem."
As your using Veggie, then I would consider that as a good enough additive to clean the system, so personally I would hazard a guess on the Diesel pump being worn....

Conversant with Bongo Top Pinion Oil Seals
Bongo owning Velotech Cycle Mechanic
Bongo owning Velotech Cycle Mechanic
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Have been using some Millers diesel additive.
Can't remember what it's called off the top of my head.
On the second occasion I managed to park up and get the
drivers seat up, all the while keeping the revs up in N by various means
and observe the throttle cable movement.
In the off throttle position the cable stops against a little sensor (?)
normal revs are +-750 , I'm lead to believe from this forum.
Mine was down to 300 in that position, almost stalling.
To get 750 revs I had to press accelerator to the position that would
usually give +-1500.
Subsequent cold satrts are instant and the fast idle clicks on as normal.
On my rev counter there are 2 small lines between 0 and 1000.
If I assume each represents +-330 rpm then my idle speed may be
slightly low being fractionally above second line.
Can't remember what it's called off the top of my head.
On the second occasion I managed to park up and get the
drivers seat up, all the while keeping the revs up in N by various means
and observe the throttle cable movement.
In the off throttle position the cable stops against a little sensor (?)
normal revs are +-750 , I'm lead to believe from this forum.
Mine was down to 300 in that position, almost stalling.
To get 750 revs I had to press accelerator to the position that would
usually give +-1500.
Subsequent cold satrts are instant and the fast idle clicks on as normal.
On my rev counter there are 2 small lines between 0 and 1000.
If I assume each represents +-330 rpm then my idle speed may be
slightly low being fractionally above second line.
" it's not rocket surgery! "
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Have posted progress on the " stuttering " topic as our topics now seem linked.
Don't know if anyone ( moderator ) wants to officially link them.
cheers all, James
Don't know if anyone ( moderator ) wants to officially link them.
cheers all, James
" it's not rocket surgery! "
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Check the flexible hose that returns unused fuel from the injectors to the tank it is behind the inlet manifold and runs to a pipe fixing at the injection end of the pump. If this is perished it will let in air and leak fuel especially when hot, when cold it will be OK!
- missfixit70
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 12431
- Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2007 3:53 pm
- Location: weymouth
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Anyone can post a linkskater wrote:Have posted progress on the " stuttering " topic as our topics now seem linked.
Don't know if anyone ( moderator ) wants to officially link them.
cheers all, James

You can't polish a turd - but you can roll it in glitter.
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Thanks missfixit, thought you might do it.
Anyone who knows how
, can post a link 
Anyone who knows how


" it's not rocket surgery! "
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run. UPDATE
Thought I would update, for the record.
( Disclaimer: I'm ignoring any politics about oil companies
)
At the time of the problem ( July ) I was running on Tesco diesel and veg oil ( about 20% veg ).
With some trial and observation did a change to BP + veg and now only using BP ( sometimes Ultimate ).
The problem has basically gone.
BP+veg was better than Tesco+veg. Tesco diesel by itself wasn't ideal ( maybe a dodgy batch?).
Lots of dilution going on during the process combined with varying fuel levels and journey lengths
Not a proper scientific study at all.
You can draw your own conclusions.
My wife usually uses Tesco diesel in her Beetle and has no probs but I'll stick to BP.
Another factor to bear in mind, alongside the above , is my fuel cap causing a vacuum build up in tank ( was suggested straight away by someone) .
Now I can see a correlation between symptoms and " Bongo condition ".
Ignoring fuel type, the problem was worse on a long journey.
Before a long journey I would fill up then after 2-3hrs driving alot of fuel would be used thus creating a vacuum
and making it difficult for the pump to draw fuel during the overun.
On shorter trips round town the tank could be nearly empty so more air in tank to start with and less time to build vacuum hence
no problems at all.
Any conclusions? Well IMO a tank brimmed with veg/diesel then run continuously until at least 1/2 gone would have caused the worst problems , for me.
Yesterday I opened fuel cap with engine running after journey and let the tank breathe.
Today did a longish trip and repeated process when I got there. When I got home did same again.
( I've got BP Ultimate in at the moment )
It ran perfectly today. Has been for a while now but thought I'd update now I've been running well , consistently,
for a while.
No leaky pipes, dodgy injectors or blocked filters etc
. Touch wood
Hopefully this can help someone along the way before they jump / get pushed into the expensive end.
Cheers , James
( Disclaimer: I'm ignoring any politics about oil companies

At the time of the problem ( July ) I was running on Tesco diesel and veg oil ( about 20% veg ).
With some trial and observation did a change to BP + veg and now only using BP ( sometimes Ultimate ).
The problem has basically gone.
BP+veg was better than Tesco+veg. Tesco diesel by itself wasn't ideal ( maybe a dodgy batch?).
Lots of dilution going on during the process combined with varying fuel levels and journey lengths

Not a proper scientific study at all.
You can draw your own conclusions.
My wife usually uses Tesco diesel in her Beetle and has no probs but I'll stick to BP.
Another factor to bear in mind, alongside the above , is my fuel cap causing a vacuum build up in tank ( was suggested straight away by someone) .
Now I can see a correlation between symptoms and " Bongo condition ".
Ignoring fuel type, the problem was worse on a long journey.
Before a long journey I would fill up then after 2-3hrs driving alot of fuel would be used thus creating a vacuum
and making it difficult for the pump to draw fuel during the overun.
On shorter trips round town the tank could be nearly empty so more air in tank to start with and less time to build vacuum hence
no problems at all.
Any conclusions? Well IMO a tank brimmed with veg/diesel then run continuously until at least 1/2 gone would have caused the worst problems , for me.
Yesterday I opened fuel cap with engine running after journey and let the tank breathe.
Today did a longish trip and repeated process when I got there. When I got home did same again.
( I've got BP Ultimate in at the moment )
It ran perfectly today. Has been for a while now but thought I'd update now I've been running well , consistently,
for a while.
No leaky pipes, dodgy injectors or blocked filters etc



Hopefully this can help someone along the way before they jump / get pushed into the expensive end.
Cheers , James
" it's not rocket surgery! "
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
James, I had a problem that started a couple of years back with a slight hesitation when accelerating hard (felt like turbo was slow to spool up).
This progressivley got worse as time went on, but was made better when running a stonger mix of veg oil in my diesel (sometimes made the problem go away). When the engine was nicely warmed up, it was loads worse, eventually to the point where my engine was cutting out too.
Anyway, turns out it was the pump for me. Don't panic though as this does not mean you need to change it. It is the nose seal which seals the input dirveshaft. The pump needs to be removed for the fix to replace a very cheap seal. The old one had gone hard and I am guessing was allowing the pump to draw air.
I had mine fixed by Ian Taylor's mechanic, but I suggest that anyone who knows what they are doing with a diesel pump can fix it relatively cheap. If you were going anywhere near Stoke, then I would say give him a bell (http://www.japcarimport.co.uk/). He has done many of these, and was scratching his head as to why so many people seem to change the pump when this is one of the few things to go wrong with them.
Good luck.
This progressivley got worse as time went on, but was made better when running a stonger mix of veg oil in my diesel (sometimes made the problem go away). When the engine was nicely warmed up, it was loads worse, eventually to the point where my engine was cutting out too.
Anyway, turns out it was the pump for me. Don't panic though as this does not mean you need to change it. It is the nose seal which seals the input dirveshaft. The pump needs to be removed for the fix to replace a very cheap seal. The old one had gone hard and I am guessing was allowing the pump to draw air.
I had mine fixed by Ian Taylor's mechanic, but I suggest that anyone who knows what they are doing with a diesel pump can fix it relatively cheap. If you were going anywhere near Stoke, then I would say give him a bell (http://www.japcarimport.co.uk/). He has done many of these, and was scratching his head as to why so many people seem to change the pump when this is one of the few things to go wrong with them.
Good luck.
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
BTW, your filler cap should suck when the cap is removed, as there is a slight pressure defferential required before the breather valve should open on the cap. If it was open all the time, it would leak when the fuel sloshed.
If you would like anymore info, then please PM me, I will pass on my phone number and you can call me for a chat.
If you would like anymore info, then please PM me, I will pass on my phone number and you can call me for a chat.
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Thanks BongoMTBer, will bear in mind the nose seal fix for future reference.
Don't know if you read through my whole thread but it did feel like air was being drawn in, causing problems.
Maybe a bit too much vacuum in tank end would mean less fuel at pump end, on over-run and so
feel like air drawn in at pump end; lean fuel/air mix either way?
I think my problem was slightly different to yours because mine always performed strongly , when needed
but didn't like it when I lifted off, eg exiting on a sliproad.
Anyway, I washed the cap in hot soapy water and although I haven't done a really long journey yet
the sucking effect seems alot less.
EDIT: See posts ON THIS LINK.
Don't know if you read through my whole thread but it did feel like air was being drawn in, causing problems.
Maybe a bit too much vacuum in tank end would mean less fuel at pump end, on over-run and so
feel like air drawn in at pump end; lean fuel/air mix either way?
I think my problem was slightly different to yours because mine always performed strongly , when needed

but didn't like it when I lifted off, eg exiting on a sliproad.
Anyway, I washed the cap in hot soapy water and although I haven't done a really long journey yet
the sucking effect seems alot less.
EDIT: See posts ON THIS LINK.
" it's not rocket surgery! "
-
- Tribal Elder
- Posts: 616
- Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2010 5:36 pm
- Location: By the river, W Berkshire
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
I seem to be getting the same issues as Skater described ... Exacerbated since LPG conversion on Fri but started before on petrol . My question is the fuel pump for petrol the same pump used for the LPG Stagg system ( always happen weekend these issues don't they !?)
Liz
'99 V6 White over Silver - as yet unconverted but I may be converted!
'99 V6 White over Silver - as yet unconverted but I may be converted!
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
Seen similar recently and was a combination of blockages in fuel lines and a blocked tank breather, try driving the car without the fuel cap and see if it makes a difference.
Julian
Julian
Re: Stalling ONLY after a long run.
I have had exactly the same symptoms, stalling after about 15miles when slowing down for any junction, and then restarting after 2nd or 3rd attempt.
Returned vehicle to 321away, where I purchased it, and Julian did the biz.
He diagnosed blocked breather, and partially blocked fuel return pipe and carried out repair. It was fine on the journey home but was very nervous every time I slowed down, waiting for the revs to plummet.
Well done 321 and Julian, top man and top service.
As a bye and bye I was lent a Nissan Elgrand while they worked on bongo, by the lord harry you need deep pockets
to keep one of them on t`road.
malc
Returned vehicle to 321away, where I purchased it, and Julian did the biz.
He diagnosed blocked breather, and partially blocked fuel return pipe and carried out repair. It was fine on the journey home but was very nervous every time I slowed down, waiting for the revs to plummet.
Well done 321 and Julian, top man and top service.
As a bye and bye I was lent a Nissan Elgrand while they worked on bongo, by the lord harry you need deep pockets
to keep one of them on t`road.
malc
Malc