Turbo hoses

[berrega]

I'd like to ask some questions regarding the vacuum hosing that connect to the turbo...



1) Does figure 1 in this photo show the 'line in' to the turbo?
2) what does the hose do that comes out of the underneith (that cant be seen here).
3) Is the internal diameter of this hose 8mm? (or 5mm and has been stretched?)
4) should it have a jubilee clip on to make a good seal?
5) does figure 2 indicate the 'boost pressure valve'? (if not where is it?)
6) where about in the photo is the wastegate actuator, what does it look like, and what does it do?

Ta, ...I'm still trying to diagnose my 'Boost pressure valve' error code

[dandywarhol]

The wastegate actuator is no.1 - don't know about no.2 but looks like the gubbins to the left of th chassis leg is for the winter climate exhaust valve actuator - it's a valve which partially blocks off the exhaust for a quicker warmup in extreme cold.

If you have a switch to the right of the steering column with a picture of an engine on it then I'm right. This valve sometimes seizes closed (or is knocked on inadvertantly), causing lack of power.

I'm aware you have a later model engine so I could be talking utter bollocks.................

[berrega]

Where is the boost pressure control valve and what does it look like?

which way does the gas circulate? from 2 to 1?

If carbon has built up, where would to deposits be, and how would I clean it?

[dandywarhol]

I really haven't much knowledge of the later models but have a look on the parts diagrams here http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/ and identify your particular model.
Item no.1 on your pic is the wastegate actuator and the boost pipe appears to come from area 2 which, as I said, looks like a northern climate exhaust system valve setup. Does yours have the aforementioned switch to the right of the steering column?
IF you have then I'd check the valve on the exhaust (in a square box item 13-540 here http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/ ) isn't jammed closed, open it and block off the pipe goint to it to keep it open. Its possible your turbo waste actuator circuit is linked into the gubbins of the winter valve setup.

If you haven't got a winter exhaust setup and the later fly by wire pump then sorry, I'm not much more use to you..........

[dandywarhol]

Y'know, I have no problem helping people out to try and solve their problems, it's what this forums pretty much all about but when the person asking for advice repeatedly can't be bothered to answer a few simple questions to help get to the root of the cause then I get pretty pissed off - especially when the same ignoramus has already put up yet ANOTHER post on the same topic more recently!

[berrega]

Sorry.
I'm just feeling rather vulnerable and panicy that I've spent all my life savings on a vehical
when I cant rely on garages to fix the problem, and I'm not mechanically minded.

[dandywarhol]

Ok - so do you have an exhaust flap model with the switch by the drivers right knee?

[berrega]

Yes I do. Sorry I wasn't ignoring that as a question last time, I was reading fast and haddent understood your meaning.

I've tried turning it on and off again while driving to see if it frees anything up.
Nothing changes.

I'm going to try and locate the valve and give it a clean, (assuming its not too complicated)

The problem is getting worse now.
when ever I take the van over 2000 revs it kicks and jumps up to 3500 revs,
then kicks again then drops to 2200, then when I ease of the acellerator it kicks up to
3500 again then back down to 2000. sometimes when I depress the accelerator nothing happens.

In todays journey I noticed the engine fan on and smoke/vapour was rising up from under the bonnet..

[missfixit70]

Part no 135-40 - http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsm ... mgno=.html you should be able to turn the valve externally with a shifter or pipe wrench or something if it's not operating via the switch. You can remove the whole section & replace with a "normal" piece of exhaust.

[dandywarhol]

Yes I do. Sorry I wasn't ignoring that as a question last time, I was reading fast and haddent understood your meaning.

I've tried turning it on and off again while driving to see if it frees anything up.
Nothing changes.

I'm going to try and locate the valve and give it a clean, (assuming its not too complicated)

The problem is getting worse now.
when ever I take the van over 2000 revs it kicks and jumps up to 3500 revs,
then kicks again then drops to 2200, then when I ease of the acellerator it kicks up to
3500 again then back down to 2000. sometimes when I depress the accelerator nothing happens.

In todays journey I noticed the engine fan on and smoke/vapour was rising up from under the bonnet..

........and does the van lurch forward at the same rate as the rev counter climbs?
........is there an exhaust pressure fromthe back of the exhaust pipe? there should be a distinct beat even at idle.

fans and vapour suggest overheating - now, if the exhaust flap was jammed on and it's to aid engine warm up, there could be a connaction. I'd park it up til its fixed rather than do damage.

[berrega]

........and does the van lurch forward at the same rate as the rev counter climbs?

-they both happen instantaniouly.
The rev counter just jumps straight up and straight down again, about 3 second later

........is there an exhaust pressure fromthe back of the exhaust pipe? there should be a distinct beat even at idle.
-yes it pulse I reckon about 10 a second,

fans and vapour suggest overheating - now, if the exhaust flap was jammed on and it's to aid engine warm up, there could be a connaction. I'd park it up til its fixed rather than do damage.

Unfortunatelty the van is my only vehical and I need to to get to work.
So I'm going to have to use it, but I can go back to keeping the revs under 2000

AS I've said in a previous thread the glowplug light is still flashing.
when the engine is cold in the morning then I dont seam to have any problems with power.
its only when the engine is warn, and the light kicks in that I loose accelertion about 2000 rev.

The Bongo Garage told me just to ignore it!
The error code still reads boost presure valve,
that was stuck and has been cleaned.

[dandywarhol]

Back to your first picture - when you rev the engine in neutral, does the rod to the rear of number 1 in the pic move if you apply full throttle and let the revs rise towards max?

[berrega]

I'll have to check.
from memory the rod moves in and out abut 5mm when idling,
I presume it moves more At full revs.
I'll check tomorrow.

thanks for your time and patience.

[berrega]

Well it seam I have no choice in parking up.
Today on my journy to work the temperture needle went of the scale.
The overheating has only happened in the last two days, but I've just discovered the coolant reserviour was empty.
so that'll be the cause of that. Hopefully now I've topped it up, it wont happen again. *crosses fingers*

Any way the rod..

It vibrates forwards and backwards about 2-3 mm when ideling and is pushed out from the grey metal cylinder at a rate directly proportional to the depression of the accelerator and increase in revs.

My local diesel specialist has refused to do anywork on it, and I no longer trust the bongo friendly garage since they changed the turbo when wasn't the cause of the problem.

I guess I'm going to have to fix it my self based on advice from the forum.
either that of drive somehwere else in the country to find an expert.

[dandywarhol]

Well, I think you're on route to the problem - the wastegate rod should only operate when turbo boost pressure is TOO high - if the rod is moving at idle and proportional to engine revs then the turbo won't be boosting properly because the wastegate valve is opening far too early! That would cause loss of power. Seems to me someone has connected up the boost pipes the wrong way round.
That rod should only move when the turbo is producing overboost, the rod then opens a valve in the turbo and allows some of the exhaust gas to flow directly into the exhaust system rather than spin the turbo up even more.

I also don't understand why the wastegate actuator (no.1) has its rubber pipe going down towards the exhaust valve area, unless the exhaust valve system is bypassed and allowed to open when turbo boost is excessive - the exhaust and turbo wastegate MAY be fed by the same source. There should be a small bore pipe coming off the main air pipe to the inlet manifold - this should then go (dierctly, or maybe via the cold weather exhaust valve system) to the turbo wastegate actuator. Something sounds the wrong way round to me

As for the overheating - get the system bled of air ASAP berrega - otherwise you could wreck the engine!