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Bongo Clinic Archives
This is where you can find responses to all the enquiries that nurse has received over the years here at the Bongo Clinic. We have broken the information down in to categories. Please select the category you require.
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Q: A few months ago you were selling new wheel arch panels in the Bongo Shop, but now they have disappeared. Do you know where I can buy them? (Anna from Alton) A: We did indeed stock them for a while, but the shipping costs proved to be an absolute nightmare, making them very expensive. You can now buy these panels direct from Imperial Car Parts. Their telephone number is 01302 304000. The part numbers are A4481R & A4481L. These are the same panels used on a 2000-06 Ford Transit (LWB) but will provide a snug fit. See here for more info. The Hadrian Group also stock these types of panels. You can order by phone on 01373-865684. The part numbers are 3053508 & 3053509. Q: Do
you have any tips for colour coding the bumpers? Mine are grey plastic
at the moment and I would like to paint them green or black, but when
I tried this on another vehicle it looked really terrible. (Lee from
Swansea) A: You
will need to use a plastic primer before getting to work with standard
car paints. Otherwise the plastic will react. It is very important
to apply this protective layer before you use the paint. Also, be
careful as cold and/or damp may cause 'blooming' of the paint. You
need a warm dry, preferably dust free atmosphere. Q: Although
it looks fairly secure, I have been advised that I might get leakage
on my low top sunroof. Can you please advise? (Kirk from Orkney) A: (Thanks
to Kirsty for this): Anyone with a sunroof should always check the
drain hole. Few people realise it's there, assuming that a sunroof
seals completely from the top. But it doesn't, there is a drain hole
which can block, as can the gutter, in the same way as the centre
drain under the windscreen. Clear them all on a regular basis. Q: My
driver side window is intermittent. I have tried greasing the runners,
but that didn't work. I don't want to buy a new switch as they are
ridiculously expensive. Any ideas? (Greg from Whitby) A: A
couple of things you can do before taking the plunge and buying a
new one: Q: I
am trying to remove the door pulls. I have removed the screw in the
middle but it simply doesn't just lift out - are there other hidden
screws? Is there a knack to it? (Paul from Shirley) A: (Thanks
to Tigger for this):- Remove the screw at the bottom. Then, using
a small flat bladed screwdriver or similar probe, push the end in
horizontally beneath the top lip of the door pull insert. You're looking
for the best place to apply pressure to ease the 'snap in' tabs over
the retainer in the door trim. If necessary, use another implement
on the other side to apply opposing pressure on the insert. If you're
replacing the pulls, you can apply a bit of brute force! Obviously,
be careful not to damage the door trim. I think there are four tabs
- two on each side. You know the sort of thing - a triangular piece
of plastic that, when you push the insert in, eases over a lip as
the insert bends inwards a bit, and then snaps into place once it
clears the point of the triangle and the insert springs back into
shape. Keep working it gently until it eases free. Putting it - or
a new one - back in is a doddle. Total job time should be less than
10 mins! Q: I
won't go in to the full details, but I have managed to put a plank
of wood through my back window. Do you know where I can get a replacement?
(Gary from Helensburgh) A: Any
good timber yard should be able to help you. I wouldn't recommend
B&Q though as you will pay over the odds. Q: Thanks
for your help. I managed to get a new plank. I've just got to sort
out the rear window now. Autoglass said it could take 2 to 3 weeks.
Is there anyone else I could try? (Gary from Helnsburgh) A: There
are several breakers who advertise on the main website, (see here)
and they may be able to help you. Q: I'm
thinking of buying a Bongo, but I've been told that windsceens are
difficult to obtain. Please re-assure me. (Sandy from East Yorks) A: The
Mazda Bongo/Ford Freda windscreen is unique to this vehicle. Therefore
if you need a replacement, it will have to come through Mazda. However,
there are numerous routes that can be taken, and it depends to a large
extent on who your insurance company is. Usually, your insurance company
will source it themselves by going direct to a Mazda main dealer,
but often the answer will come back that they are out of stock for
at least a week. Some other companies have stockpiles of windscreens,
so you can try 321Away or phone
01189-788774), National Windscreens on 0114-2755141 (ask for Mr Barrell)
also have large numbers in stock or try other suppliers on the main
website. A: In
all likelihood your anti-roll bar drop links need replacing. Q: Although
I have had my vehicle undersealed, I've noticed a rust patch inside
the wheel arch. There also seems to be a rust spot on my guttering,
probably caused by an awning clip taking away some paint work. Is
it too late to do anything about it? (Alan from Southampton). A: The
only true way to get rid of rust is by grinding, shot-blasting, or
replacement. But if it is not too bad, you may be able to take remedial
action by applying Loctite, which will neutralise rust spots if they
are not too deeply engrained. If you need a replacement wheel arch,
we have heard that one from a year 2000 Ford Transit can be made to
fit, although it is not the exact profile. Q: I
have been to my local Halfords to try and get matching paint for my
Freda. I used the paint code onside the passenger door, but the spotty
faced YTS trainee was next to useless and couldn't help. Any idea
where I could go? I only want some olive green touch-up paint (don't
ask; it involves the wife and a concrete bollard in Sainsbury's car
park). (Kevin from East Sheen) A: We
stock this in the Bongo shop, see here.
Member Helen Green has also tracked down an excellent, though expensive
firm in Milton Keynes who can mix and supply all Mazda paint codes.
Just quote the paint code and they can send small or large amounts.
Contact MKPE on 01908-371441. Q: Do
you know where I can get seals from? (Phil from New Milton) A: Assuming
you have ruled out a raid on London Zoo, we reckon the best bet is
to hire a boat and look off the coast of Newfoundland. Q: Sorry,
I should have elaborated. It looks like the seal on my rear passenger
side window is perishing. As Mazda will no doubt charge me a sum equivalent
to a Chelsea midfielder's hourly salary, are there any alternatives
I could try? (Phil from New Milton) A: You
could try a company called Seals Direct. They supply alll sorts of
rubbery type things for the leisure industry and you can order stuff
cut to any size. Phone them for a catalogue on 0845-226-3345 or visit
their website at www.sealsplusdirect.co.uk Q: My
1997 Freda likes to wear a full body skirt. But I ran a dog over recently
and I have mashed it up. Any idea where I can get a replacement? (Jason
from Derbyshire). A: I
think it will be difficult. Was it yours? if so then a replacement
may be an emotional experience. However if it was just the neighbours
or a stray, your best bet is to do a search on Google & enter
'dog' & you should get something cheap & hopefully local. Q: Actually
it was my body skirt that got mashed, not the dog. At least I don't
think so. I haven't seen it since. Any ideas where I can get a new
body skirt? (Jason) A: I
think it will be difficult. Prior to 1999 the body kits that are found
on Bongos were fitted by independent accessory manufacturers in Japan.
With the advent of the new shape Bongos in 1999, the body kits were
supplied by a Mazda subsidiary, Mazdaspeed. Your best bet is to do
a search on Google and contact a Mazdaspeed stockist, but don't hold
your breath as they concentrate on MX5s and Miatas. Q: My
side door appears to be jammed shut, and nothing will shift it. I
have tried everything, including shouting a lot, but all to no avail.
(Peter from Cheltenham) A: It
sounds to me like one of the spring loaded contacts has stuck and
is not making contact with its opposite number. Often a good thump
INSIDE the door, about two thirds of the way down, solves the problem.
Q: I
finally found what wrecked my heater motor. It was the volume of rainwater
coming off the roof and overflowing the rubber seal situated under
the bonnet. I've drilled two additional holes and fitted drain tubes
to help with the volume. Should the rubber seal go all the way round
continuing to the headlights? Because mine doesn't. And if I drilled
a small drain hole in the bottom of the heater casing, would that
also help? (Pete from St Helens) A: There's
a drain hole centrally positioned, under the windscreen and it's important
to unblock it regularly. The rubber only goes across the front of
the lip. I would think a small (3mm or 1/8") hole wouldn't hurt.
Duct tape on the join in the air intake trunking would probably be
very effective in keeping the water out in the first place. Q: The
windows on my van seem to have some kind of meshing built in to them.
What is this for? Can it be removed? (Paul from Alfreton) A: These
are privacy filters. They also act as UV filters. They can be removed,
but it is a tricky operation. To remove, put on the rear screen heater
for 10/15 mins, this should soften the glue, then pull off the mesh
and clean window with a spirit based fluid to remove residue (being
careful not to damage the heating elements). Q: How
do I get in to the rear light assembly to change a bulb? (Guy from
Blackburn) A: The
light unit is held in place by 2 pegs. The bottom is a push fit towards
the front of the vehicle. The top peg is a sliding fit from the outside
towards the inside. To remove: Q: Any
ideas regarding the persistent leak I have on one of my side windows?
(Simon from Dorchester) A: There
are 2 things that spring to mind. Firstly it could be that some extra
sealant needs to be applied where the electric cables enter the van.
Or secondly it could be caused by wind piling rainwater up against
the awning when the roof was up. There's not much you can do about
this other than positioning the vehicle judiciously re the wind direction. Q: I
have had a look under my Bongo and it seems to be prety exposed down
there. I'm worried about rust & corrosion. Is it worth getting
my van undersealed? (Helen from St Petes) A: Japanese
imports rarely rust while in Japan, as they do not use salt on roads
and in parts of Japan the air is drier. Things are different in the
UK, so it may be worthwhile getting your van undersealed. There are
a number of places that will give you a full "wax-oil" service.
It's advisable to use Comma Waxseal or Waxoyl or something equally
effective. It will take a garage about 4 hours to 2 days to complete,
depending on what's sealed. Cost will vary between about £150
to £450. NB: Fact sheets on the following related subjects are available in the members-only area of the site. If you are a member, click on the link below to open the pdf file. Q:
My brake warning light comes on from time to time, usually when I'm
cornering. Do you think there is a dodgy connection? (Tony from Wincanton) A:
Possibly. But as the warning light also doubles as an indicator for
low brake fluid, it is possible that your reservoir needs topping
up. Q:
On application of the brakes, first time they are fine, but when applied
again the pedal travels further to the floor. The fluid level is OK,
and I've checked the discs and pads. Any ideas? (Simon from Nottingham) A:
This has all the symptoms of worn master cylinder seals. Q:
What type of brake fluid should I use on the Bongo? (Mike from Altrincham) A:
DOT4. Q:
My ABS warning light stays on all the time. Should I be worried? (Brian
from Orkney) A:
There are 3 things to check before you take it to be looked at by
a professional. Firstly, it may be an electrical fault as the wiring
behind the instrument cluster is very poorly insulated. If the ABS
sensor wire is touching another exposed wire, it could cause the light
to come on. Secondly, it could be that you need to top up your brake
fluid. Or thirdly, it could be a faulty sensor. The sensor is plastic
and is in the wheel hub. Q:
My front brake pads need replacing, but I only had a new set installed
a year ago. In that time I have driven approximately 10,000 km. I
certainly don't "drive on my brakes". This seems a bit excessive.
What's the likely cause? (Carol from a secret MOD installation) A:
Excessive pad wear is usually caused by either oil contamination (associated
with perished axle oil seals) or it could be that the calipers need
adjusting. Warped discs will also cause excessive wear, but you're
likely to also feel a vibration as you apply the brake. Q:
I have alloy wheels which are in good nick. Looking behind the alloys
to the brake discs, the part of the wheel to which the brake discs
are attached are heavily rusted. Is this a problem? (Paul from Kent) A:
The piece to which you refer is the disc assembly. Discs are made
of cast iron and therefore rust rapidly but the outer layer of oxidization
acts as a barrier to further rusting. If you scrape it all off it
will go rusty again within a week (if it rains) and so you will eventually
destroy the disc (over a number of years!) if you keep cleaning the
rust off. It is perfectly normal and effects all cars unless they
have carbon brakes. One solution might be to brush the loose rust
off but not attempt to wire brush down to metal. You could then brush
on some rust neutralising liquid. This is easy to apply (has the apperance
of milk) because it only reacts with rust and just wipes off other
areas. Q:
What is the minimum thickness before pads and discs should be replaced?
(Derek from Molesworth) A:
Pads should be 3mm, discs 22mm. Q:
My Diesel Bongo (2.5Td 1996) runs fine, but after sharp braking there
is often a smell of un-burnt diesel in the cabin. No apparent leaks
when I look underneath - any ideas? The injector pump was replaced
8 months ago and is not the source, and it has had a new fuel filter,
other than that no work or drama on the vehicle. Economy is usual
Bongo (330 miles on a tank). Help! (John from Elgin) A:
There are 2 likely causes. One is oil on the brake pads, and the second
is a problem with the fuel vacuum line. If it is the vacuum line,
what is happening is that the fuel is running too rich because of
a probable split in the end of the vacuum line. This will result in
a low vacuum signal followed by over-fuelling as the ECU thinks the
Bongo is at a wide throttle. NB: Fact sheets on the following related subjects are available in the members-only area of the site. If you are a member, click on the link below to open the pdf file. Q: I'm
not sure how the alternator belts go on because they both snapped
when the alternator failed! It looks like they go round the big pulley
and the small one on the engine, but I'm not 100% sure. (Peter from
Godalming) A: (Thanks
to Chris M for this)- To replace the belts loosen the 14mm nut at
the bottom right of the alternator, and loosen the 14mm nut at the
top left of the alternator. Then undo the 12mm bolt at the front top
of the alternator to completely slacken off the assembly. Push the
alternator all the way forward, and then you can get the 2 belts on.
Make sure you get them properly into the engine pulley grooves and
the water pump pulley grooves. DO NOT drive it until you have replaced
the belts as you have no water pump without them. And don't do as
I did and get your arm stuck between the engine cover and the engine
block whilst trying to get the belts around the bottom pulley. Q: I'm
importing a vehicle from Japan that is over 10 years old, so it won't
require an SVA test. DVLA tell me it can't be registered without a
valid MOT certificate, but my local MOT station tell me that they
need a registration document to fill in their computerised records!
Help! (John from Harrogate). A: Your
MOT tester needs to see a De-Registration document from Japan. This
will be supplied with the import and generally an 'English translation'
of the document is also supplied. If it's not, ask for it as you will
need it. Take the de-reg document with you when you take your Bongo
for its MOT. Freshly imported vehicles going through an MOT for the
first time are subject to the same rules as kit cars; ie the MOT identifier
will be the chassis number. Q: I
am considering buying a Bongo in a private sale, but the mileage appears
to be very low. Is it possible that it has been clocked? (Geraint
from mid Wales) A: Low
mileage vehicles do exist. Remember, these are usually a weekend vehicle
for the Japanese, especially if it has an elevating roof. The only
way you can check if the vehicle has been clocked is by getting a
check done on the vehicle by BIMTA (the Import Traders Association).
For just £26 + VAT they will check whether the mileage is genuine.
For a further £40 +VAT they will be able to tell you if the
vehicle is listed as stolen. See their site at www.bimta.org. Q: When
importing a Bongo to the UK, does it have to get through the SVA test?
(Algy from Limassol) A: Yes
it does, unless it is classified as a motorcaravan. Or unless it is
over 10 years old. A motorcaravan is defined as a vehicle that has
1) seats and table, 2) sleeping accommodation (which may be converted
from the seats), 3) cooking facilities, and 4) storage facilities.
This equipment must be rigidly fixed to the living compartment; however,
the table may be designed to be easily removable. See relevant members
fact sheet for more info (see below). NB: Fact sheets on the following related subjects are available in the members-only area of the site. If you are a member, click on the link below to open the pdf file.
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Bongo Fury © 2003 to 2010 |
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