That's what I did .. picked up some wider / taller Transit van type of ramps from a car boot sale for £10

I used to drive a 1999 Vauxhall Omega CDX with the BWW straight 6 Turbo Diesel, I have still have that car.. sat unused now for 61/2 years ... I've had my 2.4 16v DOHC Toyota Estima six and a half years .. had her converted to LPG about four years ago .. my biggest regret .. not having her converted...

When I had my Petrol 2.4 16v DOHC Emina I had the receipt for a full service dated from the day before I collect her from Manchester .. Being the sceptic I am I checked her over as soon as I got back home to Walsall after driving down the M6.. Various things like new but low oil on the dipstick ... ...

Well with the cam belt if it's broke ... it's a bit to late to fixit ..!!

Thanks ... for the explanation ... It's just to my mind ... if you torque a bolt down to down to say 256 lbs foot .. then use an angle gauge .. you are simply apply more torque to 'stretch' the bolt anyway .. So I could not see why a simple three stage tightening sequence with the torque wrench woul...

Google is my friend and I did search for info on ANGLE tightening against simply torquing .. I understand the principle of stretch bolts, and appreciate the relevant ease a gauge can be utilised on head / crank bolts etc: But ... I am still bemused to why angles are used for some 'out of the way' bo...

I generally use what ever method is recommended in the manual ... I can remember some years back replacing the rear wheel bearings on a RWD Vauxhall Carlton you torqued first then angle tightened ... given the location of the retaining bolts it must be one of the most awkward jobs to do efficiently ...

I've always been a bit bemused why 'torque to yield' (stretch) bolts in particular are 'angle tightened' ... Surly there is no difference in torquing a bolt down to say (stage one) 100lbs foot ... then (say) 120 lbs foot .. then a final torque of (say) 140 lbs foot ... Rather than the initial torque...

From your two posts I assume you have had the Bongo for a couple of months ...

Has is done it from day one ... or is it something that as only just started to happen ..??

If it a new issue think to when it first started .. where any jobs / mods done at around the same time ..??

if it is a four wheel drive then it is always in (permanent) four wheel drive ..

LEDs are general better .. but usually 'normal' tungsten 509T dash panel bulbs should be available from any car shop ..with or without the plastic base ..

Can't see past an AFT / V6

Just had the November shipping list from Algys Autos Ltd ... quite a number of 2.0 and 2.5 petrols ...but out of all on those on board .. not one is an AFT

Sounds similar to me ... I am not into 'Bling Things' ... I have had my Emina for over six years and I am sure she will still be around for a lot more years than that .. I am 'tempted' with a Bongo ... maybe it the last motor I will buy .. must be a V6 AFT ... and needs to be rust free to last me .....

Interesting .. Do you always flush your engine before re filling ..?? On all my 'old' petrol cars I always did .. usually half a pint of diesel in the 'hot' engine ... then let it run for about 15 minutes .. But since using fully synthetic (and LPG) the old oil comes out nearly as clean as it went i...

Driver+Passengers wrote: Put another half litre of ATF in, to take me to 5 in total. I'll probably add another half to whole litre before running and warming it all and then stopping to check the level.

Remember ... the AT Fluid is checked with the engine running. (Handbrake on .. lever in P..ark ..