I'd use Norma clips if the pipes are old. Or better still, replace the pipes. https://i.imgur.com/snkngMD.jpg Norma is on left and did a better job of holding the leak than new standard spring clip. Those things are all about assembly speed and cost. Perfect if everything is new or in good condition...

Was it the main steel pipes that you changed? I bought the drivers side one from a place advertising it as 'all models' then found out the original has a smaller steel pipe welded to it so had to Dremel that off and strap it to the new one.

Bottom hose at engine end for this old-schooler. Don't think I got it all out but enough for the job.

Filled rear matrix first through inlet manifold hose then put the rest in the tank.

Bled using the little hose on hot side of thermostat.

I took the rubber tailgate seal off a while ago and found that the rubber has small steel clips holding it onto the body seams. These rust and then the seams start rusting under the clip so I took them off (or what was left of them) then did my usual rust preventative trick and packed grease in the ...

Someone's most probably had the thermostat out. I'd get this to a different garage as most engine wear takes place in the warm-up phase and you want that to be as short as possible (hence the thermostat). There's usually a reason why people take thermostats out and it's usually a bad one...

they cant fix electrical faults Aw, bless their little hearts. A mechanic who can't do electrical faults is like a chef who can't make an omelette. Do you know anyone handy with a meter? If not, it's worth removing the plastic from under the wheel (2 screws) and checking you don't have any partiall...

I had the same with mine. Full service history from specialist but no detail as to what was replaced. Distributor and rotor arm looked like original Mazda and with 116K miles on it you can imagine what they looked like inside :shock: When I changed them, the tickover rose by 100rpm without doing any...

Lovely work. When the metal is made up to that standard it almost hurts to weld it. Can you tell me what welding gear was used (MIG, TIG or gas)?

Still available and good quality (squidgy, not solid):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/76259-IGNITI ... 2749.l2649

Gone up from £8.75 to £10.11. 20% Inflation since July (80% APR)

No problem, I got them from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lash-Adjusters-Tappets-Valve-lifters-x12-for-Mazda-626-2-0-2-2-GD-1987-92/232133803470?fits=Car+Make%3AMazda%7CModel%3A626&hash=item360c40bdce:g:rkYAAMXQROxRFan7 Available a lot cheaper from abroad but I couldn't wait for the post. Fur...

That is usually a sign that the HLA are worn Nah, all 12 replaced as part of the head work. Same lifters quiet now for days since the 10w40 went in. FE is an old design, uses head bolt channel as oil gallery. Rocker shafts feed the HLA's and they are relatively wide so oil pressure takes a while to...

I too used a semi-synth. Castrol have re-branded GTX as 'Ultraclean' which is a 10w40 and very full bodied with a good nose and finish.
Bongo loves it but doesn't consume any now having been on the 12 steps.

Here's the parent directory for the 626 shop manual (careful, this covers the DOHC and the diesel so look out for the F6/F8/FE SOHC designation): https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/626/GD%20workshop%20manual/WSM-87%20-%20Mazda%20626%20GD/ Here's the lubrication section (2A): https://www.mazdabg.com...

There's a couple of oil filters available for the FE, one is longer than the other. Do it the usual way: put 4L in and check on dipstick. Start engine, run for minute or so, shut down, check and top up if needed. On the subject of grades, I tried a 5W synthetic post rebuild and found my lifters drai...

Does your engine overheat when in the mountains? Over cooling is almost as bad for an engine as over heating so I would only look to modify if you are sure you are pushing it beyond the limits of Mazda's intent. If you do think more cooling is needed, the answer is in the radiator core, not the fans...