Loud squeal when pulling off

alanB · Post by **alanB** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 2:07 pm

I get this squeal sound that sounds just like a loose fan belt but I checked the fan belt and it?s OK and it does not make this sound when I rev the engine without moving.

After a few miles the sounds seems to go away a bit.

I will confess I?m starting to think it is the auto gearbox as I?ve got new oil in the engine and the water system is full and it does not over heat

Help appreciated

Colin Lambert · Post by **Colin Lambert** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 3:56 pm

Check all the belts. Does it happen more in the morning when it is cold and damp? If so my ???? is on a belt of some sort.

waycar8 · Post by **waycar8** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:13 pm

does the noise sound to becoming from the passenger footwell?, i had a similar sound so i changed my 2 alternator belts and aircon belt and the noise has gone.

Bumbly1 · Post by **Bumbly1** » Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:55 am

My bet is that this is a sheared exhaust manifold stud, easy to check. It was in my case.

Tom

Post by **Simon Jones** » Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:59 am

I'd go with the sheared exhaust stud theory too - lots of posts on the forum for it. The sound is like when you blow thru a piece of grass cupped in your hands.

alanB · Post by **alanB** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 9:17 am

Thanks for your help guys i will try them all

alanB · Post by **alanB** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 7:58 pm

Yes it's manifold stud number one.

The stud has snaped off just inside the manifold and all the nuts look like they would give trouble if i tried to remove them all so i could get in to get grips onto the snaped stud to try to remove it.

It looks like number one stud at the bottom could be drilled out and tapped after removing the plastic pipe that feeds the intake to the turbo is first removed but i don't know if this is possible without trying

Does anyone know the size of the thread on the stud of if it can be drilled out ?

RobnKathryn · Post by **RobnKathryn** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 10:59 am

Hi, the thread size is M8. I had the same problem along with many others. I don't think you'll manage to drill a broken stud out without removing exhaust manifold and turbo, and also the alternator to give sufficient access to the hole.

Please make sure that the stud is snapped and not just missing! If it's missing that is a major bonus because it means the following is unnecessary!

Also note that I'm not a mechanic.....just a geezer who can't afford to pay anyone to do stuff....so I can't guarantee that this is the best/easiest way to do this job. Anyone reading who doesn't agree with this method please post!

Even if you were able to drill the broken stud out, bear in mind that it probably snapped because the exhaust manifold is warped or twisted; unless you get the face of the exhaust manifold skimmed it will probably happen again.

I undid the bolts that attach the front pipe of the exhaust to the bit which goes to the turbo and the bolts which hold the exhaust front section mounting bracket to the body. this allows the exhaust to drop down. Then remove all the feeds to the turbo. If you can, undo the big (35mm?) nut which secures the metal pipe which runs from the exhaust manifold around the back of the cylinder head. This is the exhaust gas recirculation pipe. I couldn't undo mine so undid it on the other side of the engine. If you do this you'll need to remove the big plastic pipe just below it. To do this you'll notice that there's a little pipe running up from the big plastic pipe to a one way valve (green thing) then up to a connector....all this is very brittle/fragile and very easy to break so be very careful. Best to remove the pipe at the top and leave the valve in place and the little pipe connected to the big pipe. I broke mine! Then slacken the alternator right off, take off the two belts and remove the alternator. Then undo the exhaust manifold bolts (you'll need a bit of thought and a 3/8'' socket set to get access to the lower bolts but it's not that difficult if alternator is removed. Remove the manifold and turbo as a complete assembly. Stuff some clean rags into the turbo holes so you don't get any shit into the turbo while it's off the vehicle.

When drilling your broken stud out, use a cobalt drill bit (they're sold as bits to drill out spot welds on body panels)....ordinary drill bits will blunt too quickly. Be very careful when drilling out, because you don't want to damage the cylinder head.

Take the manifold to a engineer who can skim it back to flat (should cost about ?30 I think). Get a new exhaust manifold gasket and you may want to remove the other studs and replace them if you're a glutton for punishment.

A lot of the nuts you need to remove will be rusty/brittle/difficult.....so don't overdo force....give them a good spray with Plus Gas (much better than WD40) leave them for a while then give another spray and then try to remove.

If you can afford to pay someone to do this, then let them do it, but make sure it's someone who knows what they're doing! Your time will be much better spent doing just about anything else!

To finish this much too long post. Don't forget that I'm not a mechanic so cannot be totally relied upon for good advice. Please search the forum for other posts/advice as well. Good luck.

Rob

mick · Post by **mick** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 12:25 pm

A great description Rob - thanks. Hope I never have to do it though !

RobnKathryn · Post by **RobnKathryn** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 3:00 pm

Alan, just read your post properly (should have done that before writing War and Peace really!).....so the stud isn't missing and is broken off just inside the manifold.

In this scenario you may just about be able to drill it out as long as it isn't fixed too tightly into the cylinder head with loctite or whatever. Mine was unbelievably tight and drilling out even with manifold and turbo off was a nightmare. Removing alternator will make access fo drilling much easier. My guess is that it will not be possible to drill out easily and you'll still end up doing 'War and Peace', but it's got to be worth a try to avoid that. Just be very careful as when you get deep into the stud you don't want the drill to go off course and into the head. Because the stud is steel and and the head is aluminium, the drill bit will be only too delighted to slip off into the softer material and wreck the thread in your head.

I know this because I did it!!!! Luckily (in a sick and twisted sort of way), I later found my head to be cracked so I didn't have to worry about the messed thread.....I got as nice shiny new one!

I really hope the easy way works for you...............Rob

gazz and ally · Post by **gazz and ally** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:40 pm

I thought Rebecca Loos had joined the forum when I read the topic....

kitebeach · Post by **kitebeach** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:14 pm

have u checked for small mutilated children in rear view window? might be problem just a thought?

Was

no ones else thought of it.

best regards

Jacob

Loud squeal when pulling off

Loud squeal when pulling off

Number one price goes to Bumbly1

large squeel