I have just got from a breaker, one of the long handles to mount inside the sliding door.
When I took off the trim I notice that there are NO bolt holes drilled at the points where the handle has to attach to the metal panel. There are some small punched points that seem to locate exactly where the three bolts holes are on the handle.
However, once I have drilled the top two holes, then they will be a very long way from any access holes. Not a problem with the bottom as that one is very close to the seat belt mechanism.
For the top, I was planning on drilling and cutting some key-hole-like slots to slide the bolts down. I am concerned that this will weaken the panel and bend as people pull on it to heave themselves in.
For me to put a plate behind it, then I would need to either cut a horizontal slot to get the plate in, or make the vertical bolt slots very long. I would then feed the plate in a twist it horizontal.
Has anyone come up with a nifty solution already, I would appreciate any ideas ?
Andrew
has anyone fitted a big access handle to the inside before ?
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
Lucky you. Just fitted one of these three days ago!! Despair ye not. Its not as difficult as you might imagine.
Yes those dimples are the correct location of course for the top bracket/bolts and the bottom one you drill as stated after fitting the two top bolts. You don't need any fancy plates!! Word of warning shove rags inside the panel. I lost a nut and washer to the inside of the chassis. It goes a long way Down!! Never to be seen again
.
The two top bolts
Drill the dimples out to the same diameter as the handle holes. You will need to use a ring spanner to get the extra reach to get your nuts where you want them.
. Here's the trick - Line the inside of the ring spanner flats with something sticky like 'no nails', a sealant or anything else thats sticky 
. Push a nut into the gunge including a spring washer. Here's the clever bit. Wrap the back of your spanner 
with duck tape.
You now have a nut and washer which won't fall out and due to the duck tape won't be forced thro' when you offer the bolt up to it!! I did this single-handed but extra hands would make it easier.
You will now find the spanner gives you sufficient reach and the nut can be lined up perfectly with the hole before screwing the bolt in.
Additionally you don't need to cut away any of your trim. The handle fits quite snuggly and looks great in place.
Hope this helps. Best of luck.
Tim
Yes those dimples are the correct location of course for the top bracket/bolts and the bottom one you drill as stated after fitting the two top bolts. You don't need any fancy plates!! Word of warning shove rags inside the panel. I lost a nut and washer to the inside of the chassis. It goes a long way Down!! Never to be seen again
.The two top bolts
Drill the dimples out to the same diameter as the handle holes. You will need to use a ring spanner to get the extra reach to get your nuts where you want them.
. Here's the trick - Line the inside of the ring spanner flats with something sticky like 'no nails', a sealant or anything else thats sticky . Push a nut into the gunge including a spring washer. Here's the clever bit. Wrap the back of your spanner with duck tape. You now have a nut and washer which won't fall out and due to the duck tape won't be forced thro' when you offer the bolt up to it!! I did this single-handed but extra hands would make it easier.
You will now find the spanner gives you sufficient reach and the nut can be lined up perfectly with the hole before screwing the bolt in.
Additionally you don't need to cut away any of your trim. The handle fits quite snuggly and looks great in place.
Hope this helps. Best of luck.
Tim
"Living the Dream"
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Mark & Shelly
Have also just fitted one of these, very pleased with it too- been looking for ages.
I was worried about the top two holes at first as well, but found that once you get the seat belt reel out there is actually loads of room inside the door pillar & the holes are not as far up as you think, I reached up inside and screwed the nuts on by hand before sending a spanner up there. I also used M8 bolts with a 7.5 mm drill, this allows them to hold themselves in place.
If that sounds clever, then leaving 'both' ends of the seatbelt inside the trim when I but it back wasn't, Doh.
I was worried about the top two holes at first as well, but found that once you get the seat belt reel out there is actually loads of room inside the door pillar & the holes are not as far up as you think, I reached up inside and screwed the nuts on by hand before sending a spanner up there. I also used M8 bolts with a 7.5 mm drill, this allows them to hold themselves in place.
If that sounds clever, then leaving 'both' ends of the seatbelt inside the trim when I but it back wasn't, Doh.
-
Mark & Shelly
).