Passenger door central locking
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
-
- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:08 pm
Passenger door central locking
We have a 96 Bongo with central locking but the passenger door has stopped working.
It still locks fine from key or inside of that door but won’t from using the drivers lock. The rear sliding door still works which suggests I think that it’s not the relay.
I’ve checked the wiring in the loom on the door open and all the wires look pristine so reckon they’ve been replaced before (we only bought her last summer).
Any other suggestions please?
It still locks fine from key or inside of that door but won’t from using the drivers lock. The rear sliding door still works which suggests I think that it’s not the relay.
I’ve checked the wiring in the loom on the door open and all the wires look pristine so reckon they’ve been replaced before (we only bought her last summer).
Any other suggestions please?
- g8dhe
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 10180
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:06 pm
- Location: Worthing, West Sussex.
- Contact:
Re: Passenger door central locking
Probably worth opening the door up by removing the card and checking if the power is reaching the solenoid/motor with a meter or test lamp and then taking it from there.
-
- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:08 pm
Re: Passenger door central locking
Thanks for the quick reply Geoff
I figured I’d need to test where the link is broken but I’m going to show my lack of knowledge and ask how I do that. I have a multimeter and removed the door card. Most connections look ok but can’t see where to test the voltage and don’t know if I should only get a reading when I try to lock/unlock?
The window and electric mirror still work so seems like it must just be the central lock wire or the last section....
Thanks
Keith
I figured I’d need to test where the link is broken but I’m going to show my lack of knowledge and ask how I do that. I have a multimeter and removed the door card. Most connections look ok but can’t see where to test the voltage and don’t know if I should only get a reading when I try to lock/unlock?
The window and electric mirror still work so seems like it must just be the central lock wire or the last section....
Thanks
Keith
- g8dhe
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 10180
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:06 pm
- Location: Worthing, West Sussex.
- Contact:
Re: Passenger door central locking
-
- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:08 pm
Re: Passenger door central locking
Hi again,
Not managed to test the solenoid yet as discovered some interesting wiring adjustments by a previous owner....seemingly however the central locking Is working again but think I have a loose connection track down later!
For now though I need some help figuring out what the wires should look like just inside the panel by the drivers door. The picture below if the link works is additions a previous owner appears to have made to add a LB, which they have then spliced to radio, 12v cigarette lighter adapter and interior lights. There’s also a positive cable from the unnamed relay going to behind the speedo etc and negative going to electric door mirrors and no obvious link to the SB which seems standard on every guide for fitting an LB that I’ve read.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/photos/share/H ... mL6Px096cJ
My first thoughts are to remove it all, putting the wiring back as it should be then wire in a new LB properly with a VSR. But I’m not sure we’re the internal lights wire should be reconnected, the radio and 12v seem to be additional wiring so happy to just remove but not the internal lights....help please!
Not managed to test the solenoid yet as discovered some interesting wiring adjustments by a previous owner....seemingly however the central locking Is working again but think I have a loose connection track down later!
For now though I need some help figuring out what the wires should look like just inside the panel by the drivers door. The picture below if the link works is additions a previous owner appears to have made to add a LB, which they have then spliced to radio, 12v cigarette lighter adapter and interior lights. There’s also a positive cable from the unnamed relay going to behind the speedo etc and negative going to electric door mirrors and no obvious link to the SB which seems standard on every guide for fitting an LB that I’ve read.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/photos/share/H ... mL6Px096cJ
My first thoughts are to remove it all, putting the wiring back as it should be then wire in a new LB properly with a VSR. But I’m not sure we’re the internal lights wire should be reconnected, the radio and 12v seem to be additional wiring so happy to just remove but not the internal lights....help please!
- g8dhe
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 10180
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:06 pm
- Location: Worthing, West Sussex.
- Contact:
Re: Passenger door central locking
My instincts say to start by stripping out the add-ons and then reconsider how to re-wire it in a more "normal" fashion.
The most frequent method to re-wiring these days is simply to remove the 4 fuses from the internal fuse box by the drivers knee and replace the fuses with a "Swap Loom" this plugs into the lower connection of the 4 fuses replaced Ancillaries 15 Amp Top Right, the 2 15 Amp Blind circuits top row right and the unswitched power 10 Amp Top row Left. These are the only circuits that need to be switched over as they need to be used when static. The swap loom terminates on a new fuse box close to the leisure battery and the 4 fuses are moved to this new box, the common on the new fuse box then connects to the LB +ve. This way no existing wiring has to be touched in anyway! Its also very simple to return to standard configuration.
Another way (which I used) is to attack the existing fuse box from the rear and isolate the same 4 circuits from there common feeds and reconnect this feed to the leisure battery via a new fuse located close to the LB. However this is not the way I would do it now the above swap loom is by far a better method.
The most frequent method to re-wiring these days is simply to remove the 4 fuses from the internal fuse box by the drivers knee and replace the fuses with a "Swap Loom" this plugs into the lower connection of the 4 fuses replaced Ancillaries 15 Amp Top Right, the 2 15 Amp Blind circuits top row right and the unswitched power 10 Amp Top row Left. These are the only circuits that need to be switched over as they need to be used when static. The swap loom terminates on a new fuse box close to the leisure battery and the 4 fuses are moved to this new box, the common on the new fuse box then connects to the LB +ve. This way no existing wiring has to be touched in anyway! Its also very simple to return to standard configuration.
Another way (which I used) is to attack the existing fuse box from the rear and isolate the same 4 circuits from there common feeds and reconnect this feed to the leisure battery via a new fuse located close to the LB. However this is not the way I would do it now the above swap loom is by far a better method.
-
- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:08 pm
Re: Passenger door central locking
Thanks again Geoff, will get on with resetting the wiring at weekend and look for parts to wire in proper LB with VSR and swap loom.
Do you know where the wire for the internal lights that goes up the drivers door frame should originally be wired in to, I can spot where that was cut out from. The rest seems fairly straight forward to remove, except the stereo but will get to that later when I’ve located keys to remove that, one step at a time!
Thanks
Keith
Do you know where the wire for the internal lights that goes up the drivers door frame should originally be wired in to, I can spot where that was cut out from. The rest seems fairly straight forward to remove, except the stereo but will get to that later when I’ve located keys to remove that, one step at a time!
Thanks
Keith
Re: Passenger door central locking
Two bits of coat hanger wire can often help removing a stereo.
- g8dhe
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 10180
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:06 pm
- Location: Worthing, West Sussex.
- Contact:
Re: Passenger door central locking
All the internal lights are from the unswitched feed 10 Amp Top Left fuse.
-
- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:08 pm
Re: Passenger door central locking
Thanks Bob and Geoff, lots more fun planned for the weekend then!
-
- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:08 pm
Re: Passenger door central locking
Hi All,
So been researching, and reading previous posts, perhaps too much and now overthinking it all.
Once I've restored the original connections I need to fit a VSR split charge circuit and swap loom circuit so that having the leisure battery is actually useful too. I think I'm correct that the two items below will provide everything I need (not counting the leisure battery obviously and I have proper battery clamps already for it).
VSR kit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202499939887
Swap loom
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114160298011
I'd also like to future proof what I add now for plans on the next addition, solar panel and charger, I don't think that has any impact on this plan but grateful of confirmation or indeed correction that I'm on the right track.
Thanks again everyone
Keith
So been researching, and reading previous posts, perhaps too much and now overthinking it all.
Once I've restored the original connections I need to fit a VSR split charge circuit and swap loom circuit so that having the leisure battery is actually useful too. I think I'm correct that the two items below will provide everything I need (not counting the leisure battery obviously and I have proper battery clamps already for it).
VSR kit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202499939887
Swap loom
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114160298011
I'd also like to future proof what I add now for plans on the next addition, solar panel and charger, I don't think that has any impact on this plan but grateful of confirmation or indeed correction that I'm on the right track.
Thanks again everyone
Keith
- g8dhe
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 10180
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:06 pm
- Location: Worthing, West Sussex.
- Contact:
Re: Passenger door central locking
No Solar won't affect the VSR and swap loom but read here for what to be aware of viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72346
-
- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:08 pm
Re: Passenger door central locking
Thanks again Geoff, found that one yesterday and was planning on ordering from solar camper solutions too, but that will have to wait till I can afford to get a good quality kit hence planning ahead
-
- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2019 10:08 pm
Re: Passenger door central locking
Going to show my lack of electrical knowledge again.
I can connect the red wire from interior lights to top left 10a fuse and happily they work. Not sure how originally connected though as there is already a blue wire with red stripe in that slot. Is it ok just fix in with that?
And then what do I do with the black wire, presumably meant to complete the circuit somewhere?
Keith
I can connect the red wire from interior lights to top left 10a fuse and happily they work. Not sure how originally connected though as there is already a blue wire with red stripe in that slot. Is it ok just fix in with that?
And then what do I do with the black wire, presumably meant to complete the circuit somewhere?
Keith
Re: Passenger door central locking
Black is normally earth, but Geoff will know.