ATF change *DON'T DELETE*

Technical questions and answers about the Mazda Bongo

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mikeonb4c
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Re: ATF change

Post by mikeonb4c » Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:30 pm

Blimey - good old BF software did not flag up the latest crop of posts on this so missed this interesting exchange of views. As Kirsty says, these darn things have always been a lot more than £3.50 when I've come across them - has someone been profiteering I wonder? Like Alacrity, I hate teh idea in principle of reusing and old gasket. But given cost, difficulty or removal, and growing dossier of evidence that re-use seems to be safe, I guess I should relax. The debate has also cleared up my other worry - that I'm doing the job, without a replacement gasket, and the old one breaks up when I try to remove the sump pan, so I can't finish the job. It sounds like that never happens in practice.

I'm still nervous about doing this job. I'd be doing it outside and don't want any wind blown grit to get in the system while pan is off. Also, I worry that I may not refill with ATF to the required mark, because measurng the level accurately (gearbox fully warmed, engine running, gearbox in 'P' etc.). Am I worrying too much?

Also, some people (including a mechanic) say if a gearbox is working fine it's best to leave it alone and not change the ATF. Is it really that important to change the ATF every 24k miles or can it be left?
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missfixit70
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Re: ATF change

Post by missfixit70 » Wed Apr 07, 2010 4:46 pm

I wonder how many gearbox problems would have been averted if the oil was changed when it should be & the filter cleaned? Seems daft to me not to do it.
If you overfill a bit, suck it out, not a problem, it's not going to go bang if its slightly overfull for a few miles, just keep a good eye on the level in the day or 2 after changing it.
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mikeonb4c
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Re: ATF change

Post by mikeonb4c » Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:13 pm

missfixit70 wrote:I wonder how many gearbox problems would have been averted if the oil was changed when it should be & the filter cleaned? Seems daft to me not to do it.
If you overfill a bit, suck it out, not a problem, it's not going to go bang if its slightly overfull for a few miles, just keep a good eye on the level in the day or 2 after changing it.
All true, but it is interesting that some experienced people still think 'if it aint bust don't fix it'. I can see that some things only produce filter clogging muck when they are damaged, and not the other way round. I'll be interested to hear Alacrity's view.
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Re: ATF change

Post by francophile1947 » Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:52 pm

Having experienced what a difference the ATF change made to my gear changes, I will continue to change mine as recommended :D Old fluid was clean and red, but something must have changed in it :?
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Re: ATF change

Post by helen&tony » Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:43 pm

Hi
John...
Ah...clean and red ...mine is also due for a wee drop of Chateauneuf Du Dexron...whether it needs it or not...preventative medicine and all that...brake fluid'n'all..sadly, nothing is everlasting...
Cheers
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Re: ATF change

Post by maxheadroom » Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:42 pm

Great work Kirsty apart from you make me want to go and do mine now and I have to much to do...............
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Re: ATF change

Post by Alacrity » Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:43 pm

I would always recommend tranny oil changes - providing it is done properly & the dirt is kept out.

It really is within the capability's of a competent DIYer. As Kirsty says, don't worry about overfilling it, you can either suck some out if you do overfill it or crack an oil cooler pipe with it running & drain some off (I am assuming here that the oil cooler is fed in park, some are not :?: ). As Kirsty it won't go bang or hurt anything, if it really does have too much it will burp some out of the breather. Just relax & get on with it man! :lol:

If you want a pan gasket on hand as a standby PM me & I can send you one, then you really don't have any excuses!
35+ years working with autogearboxes - all day every day......for my sins
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Re: ATF change

Post by Doone » Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:55 pm

Also, some people (including a mechanic) say if a gearbox is working fine it's best to leave it alone and not change the ATF. Is it really that important to change the ATF every 24k miles or can it be left?
We always change ours regularly, good maintenance makes sense to me.
Allans Garage retired. Try PGS (Plymouth Garage Services) or Mayflower Auto Services Plymouth
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Re: ATF change

Post by mikeonb4c » Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:58 pm

Alacrity wrote:I would always recommend tranny oil changes - providing it is done properly & the dirt is kept out.

It really is within the capability's of a competent DIYer. As Kirsty says, don't worry about overfilling it, you can either suck some out if you do overfill it or crack an oil cooler pipe with it running & drain some off (I am assuming here that the oil cooler is fed in park, some are not :?: ). As Kirsty it won't go bang or hurt anything, if it really does have too much it will burp some out of the breather. Just relax & get on with it man! :lol:

If you want a pan gasket on hand as a standby PM me & I can send you one, then you really don't have any excuses!
Well that settles it for me - on the list it goes. If you are serious about that gasket, and if they really are inexpensive, then I'd love one but you must let me pay you. I fear you may now get deluged with requests. I'll PM you my details if you are sure about that generous offer (you ought to flog them on ebay too as you'd probably get buyers!). 8)
ronhud

Re: ATF change

Post by ronhud » Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:21 am

Hi Mike
Have you done your ATF change? If so did you do the full 'remove pan' version or just the oil change. I have a Pela now so I'm wondering about sucking a bit of the oil out to check whether it is black even tho looks good on the dipstick as some have described.
Ron
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Re: ATF change

Post by missfixit70 » Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:26 pm

In my opininon its a waste of time if you don't drop the pan & clean it & check the filter, doesn't take long & it isn't hard. Just suck it all out with the pela first as per my description at the beginning of this thread. My oil looked spot on, but the pan was thick with gunge, make sure you check the oil cooler is clear too.
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Re: ATF change

Post by mikeonb4c » Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:32 pm

missfixit70 wrote:In my opininon its a waste of time if you don't drop the pan & clean it & check the filter, doesn't take long & it isn't hard. Just suck it all out with the pela first as per my description at the beginning of this thread. My oil looked spot on, but the pan was thick with gunge, make sure you check the oil cooler is clear too.
I agree. Yes Ron, mine has been done as per Kirstys advice, by Adrian at Bury. I took my Pela with me but he decided to crack on without it. I thik the box feels a tad smoother but no real change, but I'm glad I had it done as I'm sure the ATF had done plenty of miles and - like Kirsty - there was plenty of gunge in the sump. 8)
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Re: ATF change

Post by rhino-wayne » Fri Sep 09, 2011 8:20 pm

Hi all, this thread deserves a bump, so .....THE SLOW WAY TO DRAIN YOUR AFT

Received my nice clean Pella Pump =D> Wow! Can even do a oil change with clean clothes on now :lol:

anyway pumped out Bongo's ATF Fluid (about 4.5ltr of Brown-Black yuckky ness) until pump pumping dry/empty =D>
then had a phone call & had to leave the job.....24hrs later :roll: back on the job, decided to check again with the pella pump for any further fluid..........and managed to get a further 2ltrs out :!: :!: (2 bars on the pump) =D> :lol:

..................
more Bongo work tomorrow......wish i had a garage, a lift, ramps.....augh :x
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Re: ATF change

Post by rhino-wayne » Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:07 pm

A piece of wood to support the sump while removing/fitting the last/first bolts helps.

After letting the Bongo sit & drain over night & repump,(above post) there was only a small amount of fluid left in the sump...a paint tray was more than enough to collect.
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Re: ATF change

Post by downward dog » Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:29 pm

Just done my ATF change,all as per factsheet...except I found that my 10mm socket was too wide to seat on the bolts properly (cos the sump pan side and lip were too close) and after a chew on it I found a 10mm socket with the smaller size square drive ( is it a quarter of an inch?) ....that socket was just right. These sockets are usually part of a 'set' that fits on a screwdriver type thing, and I used a pair of mole grips clamped on at 90 degrees to get the initial leverage to free the bolts (never been off I reckon). So I suggest you check this out before hitting the same problem as I did. Can't see this has arisen anywhere on't forum, and not on the factsheet....anyone else had this? Worth adding to the factsheet?? If so how?
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