Bongo topping out at 30mph, no gear up

teenmal · Post by **teenmal** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:22 am

The later WLTD IPs do not normally have a filter.

Take care.

cutlass · Post by **cutlass** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:34 am

"After last year's epic cylinder head change thread" - you bus "dont run" after that? or at first time be allright? wery offen many people dont install right timing belt - thay use second notch at crankshaft (as petrol engine), we must use 1-st notch!!! 2-ed notch use only for check timing of fuel pump...
sorry - i dont speak wery well....

bongovi · Post by **bongovi** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:38 am

cutlass wrote: ↑Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:34 am "After last year's epic cylinder head change thread" - you bus "dont run" after that? or at first time be allright? wery offen many people dont install right timing belt - thay use second notch at crankshaft (as petrol engine), we must use 1-st notch!!! 2-ed notch use only for check timing of fuel pump...
sorry - i dont speak wery well....

Your English is better than my Russian, no worries there! Bongo was fine after CH change, apart from gearing which has deteriorated to this point. I'll stop gabbing (talking!) now and get the fuel/air filters changed asap. Then see where we are

Cheers to teenmal re: banjo info. Not sure if '96 counts as later or not.

teenmal · Post by **teenmal** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:47 pm

I would imagine 96 is early, If you are not sure you really need to get the Diesel removed from the housing for a visual inspection to determine you have a gauze or not.(it might be stuck in)but be careful with your prodding.

These parts are common to various makes of cars / vans etc.

If you need any the part numbers are

146125-0101 Filter

146125-0200 spring

Take care

bongovi · Post by **bongovi** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 2:59 pm

teenmal wrote: ↑Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:47 pm I would imagine 96 is early, If you are not sure you really need to get the Diesel removed from the housing for a visual inspection to determine you have a gauze or not.(it might be stuck in)but be careful with your prodding.

Thanks for that. V useful. Suspect problem is elsewhere now - have just replaced fuel and air filter. Slightly running better perhaps. Revved up to 40mph but for all the revving the engine does (looks like it'll go round to 5k), the next gear doesn't engage. Does best in 'L'.

Popped some redex in and went to fill up at station, but only got £15's worth in. And the fuel gauge isn't registering anything. So it may be full of fuel, but the float isn't working, or it's not full and is blocked somewhere, causing all the other issues.

Is it the done thing to give your Bongo a blow-back, so to speak, up the tank hose (that goes into the filter... right?). Sure I've seen someone mention that here before.

Just to confirm, ATF not changed yet.

EDIT: Check out this post from this time last year, where I actually had a similar problem, but never did the blow-back:

https://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/vie ... el#p689589

It also talks about how I tried to (gently) feel around for a banjo with a cotton-bud and found nothing at full reach. No spring either.

Wondering if it's my diaphragm. It's got some crinkles and folds on it - but no cracks/breaks and no oil - is that normal?

cutlass · Post by **cutlass** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 3:26 pm

how many step? you dont have 4-st gear and dont "lock torgue converter"? do you read flash-codes from "plug"-lamp or "hold"-lamp?
do you do stall-test, road-test and pressure-test of gear box?

bongovi · Post by **bongovi** » Mon Apr 23, 2018 4:21 pm

None of the above, cutlass.

I just re-earthed the fuel tank, so now that works. Played with the diaphragm lock-nut/screw settings. In 'L' it will rev high up to 40+ mph but in 'D' it still hits ~3k and then just almost disengages and revs with no matching acceleration.

Time to get the ATF changed? I'm not seeing a sump or release bolt to let it flow out, so may have to do it the messy way or get a pump.

Just odd that I had this issue after CH change, fiddling with that lock-nut seems to have fixed it, and now this is happening almost the same again.

Is there anything else anyone can think of that I haven't covered?

cutlass · Post by **cutlass** » Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:20 am

do you undestand it? use icon auto translated at right high corner - https://www.drive2.ru/l/462737166204665888

https://www.drive2.com/l/462990878512775193/

https://www.drive2.ru/l/9281034/

replace AT sump, leak old oil, chahge filter, install sump, disconnect tube at gear box and oil cooler- leak old oil, clean cooler and tube use pressure air, start engine and leak old oil again, connect "in" and "out" tube, pour new oil at level, disconnect "out" tube - leak old oil.....do that step again...you must look new pure oil from "out" tube (engine is rotation...you must shift selector at all position)...check lewel! it is all.....

bongovi · Post by **bongovi** » Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:53 pm

cutlass wrote: ↑Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:20 am do you undestand it? use icon auto translated at right high corner - https://www.drive2.ru/l/462737166204665888

https://www.drive2.com/l/462990878512775193/

https://www.drive2.ru/l/9281034/

replace AT sump, leak old oil, chahge filter, install sump, disconnect tube at gear box and oil cooler- leak old oil, clean cooler and tube use pressure air, start engine and leak old oil again, connect "in" and "out" tube, pour new oil at level, disconnect "out" tube - leak old oil.....do that step again...you must look new pure oil from "out" tube (engine is rotation...you must shift selector at all position)...check lewel! it is all.....

As a translator (definitely not Russian though!) I'm finding this miscommunication troubling

Thanks for the ATF process run-down. Think I saw another on this forum. Is that definitely where we're at now, does everyone reading think? Nothing else to suggest for this odd power/gearing issue?

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Wed Apr 25, 2018 9:38 am

I recall reading of people who'd had the vacuum (i think) tube to the turbo become disconnected, which resulted in dramatic loss of power. Have a search of old threads for discussion on it.

cutlass · Post by **cutlass** » Wed Apr 25, 2018 11:08 am

"vacuum (i think) tube to the turbo" - vacuum driving turbocharger ("variable-geometry turbochargers" ) install on bongo after 2000 year, befor - used "bypass valve" turbocharger - it dont have vacuum tube, but you need check motion of throttle too!

Northern Bongolow · Post by **Northern Bongolow** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 1:37 am

its the vac pipe to the top of the fuel pump from the inlet manifold bend mike, this can be damaged or get knocked off, or even blocked with oil.

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:54 am

Northern Bongolow wrote: ↑Thu Apr 26, 2018 1:37 am its the vac pipe to the top of the fuel pump from the inlet manifold bend mike, this can be damaged or get knocked off, or even blocked with oil.

Thanks Ady. Cutlass thinks it might be on later models only but is this the case?

cutlass · Post by **cutlass** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 10:29 am

i talk earlier about how to install "new turbo" on "old bongo" - look different!......linc https://mikrob.ru/viewtopic.php?t=45521&start=15

teenmal · Post by **teenmal** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 12:54 pm

It's a 1996 2.5 TD according to the owner.

Take Care

Bongo topping out at 30mph, no gear up

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