Bongo topping out at 30mph, no gear up

[cutlass]

I dont undestand - I write befor - connect TAT and GND and look flash-codes! may be it will say more....

[bongovi]

I dont undestand - I write befor - connect TAT and GND and look flash-codes! may be it will say more....

Not sure how to do that, just looking to see if there's a factsheet now. Would my local garage with fault code reader be able to plug in and find out easier?

Update: the ATF was pumped out - black - sump tray dropped, cleaned, filter cleaned, fresh ATF put in to level. That's on top of the fuel and air filters changed. Oil filter was done about a year ago.

It felt much better, but still got to 3k rpm and then stays at same speed while over-revving. In L it goes up to 40mph and beyond. At one point it felt like it was shifting up through the gears normally, but then that stopped.

Air intake feels like it's drawing OK and clear (not sure how else to test). Otherwise I think it's time to find some error codes, as cutlass says. Maybe another helping of redex just in case?

We were supposed to be installing a new diesel heater and camping this weekend... not looking likely!

EDIT: found the transmissioncodes.pdf fact sheet. It's very useful, but not sure if I'll get anything as the hold light isn't flashing any kind of warning (and the bulb in it works). Worth a try!

[bongovi]

OK just got the codes. Was easier than I thought! Thanks, BF forums/factsheets

2 codes: 12 and 16, standing for throttle position sensor and the EGR valve position sensor.

Bearing in mind these were not flashing the hold light right now, so must have been saved to memory in the past.

Given that I've just replaced the TPS with a 2nd hand one, reportedly working, that should be resolved now? Can the error code persist? One quirk with my refit was that I snipped the negative cable and soldered it to the new one because I couldn't for the life of me get the old terminal connector off.

That leaves the EGR valve pos sensor. In this area, last year, I blanked off the EGR pipework in one spot (driver's side - turbo connection would not budge, even with heat and force). Also, while working on the engine, on top of the air duct that goes around the back of the engine from the air filter, the small connector for the NRV (non-return valve) snapped (brittle), so I drilled out the top of the duct, slotted in and glued a vac pipe, a new aluminium NRV and reconnected with fresh vac tubing as it was.

This area is now my prime suspect, but anyone else seen error code 16 before and found a fix?

Thanks!

[bongovi]

Further update:

Removed EGR blanking plate to see if that wouldn't 'fix' the fault code warning. Might need to reset codes as they may no longer be relevant. Sprayed some carb cleaner into the EGR pipe but couldn't work out how to get the valve itself off, also remembered someone saying it can cause more issues/codes by removing it, so left it alone. No change, same problem, when reassembled.

Still thinking the TPS might be non-functional, even though it was a replacement, but now not sure how to test it. I have a working multimeter, just not sure about readings etc. Have tried rotating it in its limited movement on the bracket. Although not since the ATF change...

Thoughts, as ever, still welcome.

[cutlass]

on my bongo - TPS at closed throttle =apr 0,8-0.9V, at open throttle = apr 3,9-4.1 V - connect multimeter at "Blue-Yelow line" wire( to pierce with a needle) and ground......on my bongo i delete EGR many years ago - non different at how bus is run!

for next - adjust brake band too
break up and turn bolt at "stop" than unscrew at apr 2,5 rotataion...check how work "reverse" position of AT - car must "dont brake" at the movement back...

[bongovi]

Thanks cutlass, will try to check the TPS with multimeter this afternoon. EGR has been blanked for last year, no ill effects, but maybe the valve got stuck/coked - I only blanked it just under the valve, so perhaps coke got to it over time. Stopped the sensor working? Wasn't able to get it off to check... Also new UK rules say we can't mess with EGR systems anymore, apparently. So I removed it for now. Easy to slot back in if need be - although would prefer to put it in the elbow over the inlet manifold for ease of reach, just not sure if that's going to actually blank the EGR?

Cutlass, not sure what you're trying to show me with the images. Haven't seen the 'brake band' referenced before? How is it relevant to this power/gear change issue I'm having?

Going up to garage later to see if they can't pull any more fault codes out.

[cutlass]

"How is it relevant to this power/gear change issue I'm having?" - It is not relevant....I tolk what you must do too at AT... if brake band dont work right - you will "have strike" when AT change gear ratio....

and - I remember!!! you buy new chines engine head? after apr 1000 km my chines head need check valves gap again!!! bad stainless...bus dont wont run more 90 km\h and have diesel smell from exhaust.....

[bongovi]

"How is it relevant to this power/gear change issue I'm having?" - It is not relevant....I tolk what you must do too at AT... if brake band dont work right - you will "have strike" when AT change gear ratio....

and - I remember!!! you buy new chines engine head? after apr 1000 km my chines head need check valves gap again!!! bad stainless...bus dont wont run more 90 km\h and have diesel smell from exhaust.....

Thanks for info cutlass, still not sure what the brake band *is* Also thanks for checking valve gaps.

Update: I cleared fault codes (disconnected both batts, pumped brakes etc.) and none have reappeared after turning back on and a few drives around. So no EGR pos. sensor warning, no TPS warnings either. Local garage is taking a look today. If it were a sensor, wouldn't that be giving a fault code already? Could it still be a sticking turbo or EGR or is it now more likely to be the gearbox itself?!

When cleaning out the ATF sump/filter there were some filings in there, not a massive amount, just flecks of swarf. I obviously don't want to change the gearbox if it can be avoided, but it's hard to tell if that's where the issue is or not.

[cutlass]

for next - AT as our ( https://www.transakpp.ru/232/main/nissan/re4r01a.html ) install at many type car - usually I ask "nissans driver" about problem - thay know our AT wery well!!!
finde "clubman": elgrand, terrano, patrol, skyline, cedrik - and ask help!

[bongovi]

for next - AT as our ( https://www.transakpp.ru/232/main/nissan/re4r01a.html ) install at many type car - usually I ask "nissans driver" about problem - thay know our AT wery well!!!
finde "clubman": elgrand, terrano, patrol, skyline, cedrik - and ask help!

Thanks for that. Gives some clues as to what to start looking for on the gearbox side.

In 'English': https://translate.google.com/translate? ... t=&act=url

And this line was of interest:

In general, on the recommendation of Jatko with burnt oil, it is necessary to change the entire set of clutches - No. 313003 .

Edit: Also this comment for someone with very similar symptoms from alacrity seems to nail it: https://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/vie ... es#p618888

Will check with garage, but suspect now alacrity is right:

Its a gearbox & converter rebuild I'm afraid or a good used transmission

There are some decent looking matching gearboxes on ebay... Quite a cheap one for 97-99 - presuming that won't fit the 96 I have... although many say 95-99, covering the whole range?

[cutlass]

bongovi - I finde workshop manual of RC4A-EL in english - if you give me e-mail - i try sent that file for you

[bongovi]

bongovi - I finde workshop manual of RC4A-EL in english - if you give me e-mail - i try sent that file for you

Email sent, with thanks. Updated previous post now - will double check with garage shortly, but semi-resigned to a gearbox change now.

[cutlass]

most of all bongodrivers in russia install AT from nissan elgrand - it cost low, but need change front part("bell" at engine), tail parts( we have viscoclutch for 4x4), speedsensor gear and torgue converter - it parts use from bongo.....befor 2000 year - we dont have big different in AT, after 2000 instal another type AT - "electronic"....you may install it too, but i dont look reson! need many work and parts

[teenmal]

Just in case anybody wants a wee gander


http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/upl ... RC4AEL.pdf


Take Care