Bongo Fury

Doone wrote:Thanks Mike. I didn't deliberately miss out sills, I was trying to list other parts that I have seen affected. In case my post misleads anyone, I have added it to the list (and sent you a pm. ) The majority of Bongos/Fredas I've seen are in pretty good condition and we are about to underseal ours to help to keep it that way.

No probs. I just wanted to make sure newcomers realised that cills have indeed proved to be 'one to watch' (though not life threatening - Wheelquick put a very solid new match on mine for v. little cost).

Bongo corrosion seems very 'manageable', unlike my 1958 ZB Magnette, or my Morris 1000 convertible, where I had to write them off as I couldn't see where to begin trying to sort out the floor-pan, cill problems etc.

I once had a mini that I nicknamed 'the sponge'. Not because it was sweet, but because it soaked up so much water.
We drilled holes in the footwells and boot floor so the water was at an acceptable level... those were the days.

I do not know how much he charges nor have I seen his work - but it must be ok if it keeps him busy - I expect it will not be cheap, ( if he could work with sone metal that did not rust it might be worth it - I supose depends how long to keep a bongo or how much a person wants to spend.

I reacon I could get some sort of mates rate as in this town most of the serious petrol heads to coin a phrase all know each other, were are a bit like of one big now distant extended family, we all use to socialise together but as we get older we all go our seperate ways.

Its always the way a bit of rust or crash damage can soon cost a lot when a repair is not measured in personal value just market value - I normally take real care of my vehicles tell an insurance company that. Pay outs that only allow to repurchase a real crock. (had this earlier this year with a top spec, mint low milage van -all maindealer serviced etc. written off by a nice young girl typing on the phone at over 50mph)

Unless a vehicle is say no2 on the production line 2.7 rs 911 1973 or a 3.0rsr 911.
Most precious metal just dies it's death unless owners are prepared to throw money at something in what most see an uncost effective fashion.

Never mind - I have some wax oil,not used it before, did not realised it constitutes underseal? is it really thick stuff then - I thought you'll talking about that paint on tar underseal?

I have some wax oil,not used it before, did not realised it constitutes underseal? is it really thick stuff then - I thought you'll talking about that paint on tar underseal?

No. Sorry I didn't mean to confuse again, (reminder to myself... put my brain into gear )I meant that we are going to under seal it with waxoyl. Maybe me saying that is a bit like me calling a me 'vacuum cleaner' a 'hoover'. But we will use waxoyl ... and when I say 'we' will use waxoyl, I mean my hubby will do the dirty work and I will make the mugs of tea, as waxoyling is beyond my capability (thankfully!)

I think you can get a few different waxoyls, thicker, thinner, black or clear etc... some are for spraying and some for brushing on.

Is there any prep work i could do to mine before it is waxoyled by a local company.(try and keep the price down) i.e brush off surface rust ? does it need sanding ???does it need priming ???

bongomadness wrote:Is there any prep work i could do to mine before it is waxoyled by a local company.(try and keep the price down) i.e brush off surface rust ? does it need sanding ???does it need priming ???

Best to speak to them first but I think a big part of it is getting it up on ramps and pressure washing all the crud and muck off and letting it dry. Getting rid of surface rust and giving it a coat of something might be a good idea but best to speak to the company first in case of guarantees etc?

Thanks for the good advise Dobby. unfortunately got a list as long as your arm of jobs to do on our van...cooling system pipes plus bleeding,front diff, waxoyling,cambelt change,service,plus mot in october and there is a bit of clunking when driving so guess that will fail the mot
all sent to try us i guess lol just hope we can do the loe meet in september...........banking on van being ready for it and we couldnt do the bash so fingers crossed

I had mine done at rustmasters, they use two different pro waxoyls, one that is a 'hard wax' black in colour and is used on the underside of the vehicle. this contains a rust inhibitor that neutralises existing rust (to a degree, its not possible to stop it completely) and helps prevent fresh rust forming. The second is a clear 'misting' wax that is sprayed into cills, door cavities etc. I think it stays active for about 3-5 years and should be topped up accordingly.

Since then I have bought a waxoyl kit like this one.



When I was fitting the rear sensors I heated the waxoyl up in a bucket of hot water till it was almost watery and sprayed it into the rear panels and through the grommets in the rear lights, hopefully this will protect the rear arches that little bit more.

When I was fitting the rear sensors I heated the waxoyl up in a bucket of hot water till it was almost watery and sprayed it into the rear panels and through the grommets in the rear lights, hopefully this will protect the rear arches that little bit more.

Thanks CSMCqueen for that. I saw this kit on ebay and did think about doing it myself but decided against it as i dont have the right equipment to raise the van high enough to get under it to do the job properly. I have found a garage quite local to me that quoted £140 quid to do it ......................after i get the cooling system sorted.I thought that was a pretty good price considering so thats on the list of my jobs to be done before the winter sets in.