Bongo Fury

Hi
I fitted the new rad and then put in some rad flush and flushed the whole system but I didn’t back flush the rad. Do you think there might be enough crap in it to block a new rad?. The old coolant looked as good as when I put it in two years ago and the old stat looked in good clean condition.

phil 1 wrote:Hi
I fitted the new rad and then put in some rad flush and flushed the whole system but I didn’t back flush the rad. Do you think there might be enough crap in it to block a new rad?. The old coolant looked as good as when I put it in two years ago and the old stat looked in good clean condition.

HI phil 1,
I would have flushed the system before fitting the new radiator.I would also have flushed the new radiator before fitting it to the vehicle.(Again check for cold spots on the rad when the vehicle is at running temp.)

hi phil 1,
mazda can/should be able to supply gen stat next day but have to pre order,you will need to quote your vin number,if diesel,sgl---.

your problem may be the bleed proccess your using? are you getting the last big burp out of the bleed pipe and the header tank drop when the recirc port is shut by the stat disc??you will know when you get there as it will take you by suprise when it takes half the volume of the header tank contents very quickly,then the bottom hose will get to hot to hold for more than 10 secs without burning yourself and the funnel contents will be uncomfortable to hold
also check tho port for cleaness as discribed by kistys picsl
you quote that the fans came on during the bleed proccess,was this early on in the bleed if so they could have been triggered by an air pocket around the temp sender!!
you may also remove the fan switch and temp sender an gently clean and refit.
have you preasure tested the entire system incase your new caps or something else is not sealing correctly,ie no pressure in system =lower boiling point.
hope some of this helps.
you say i think that you have been running it around and still seing higher than normal temps
what temp would you say the bottom hose is when this is observed???

Hi
I managed to get a genuine Mazda thermostat today from my local Mazda dealer who was most helpful and new what a bongo was and had it listed on the computer .
So I have just spent another evening changing the stat and bleeding the system again but having just taken it for a test drive it seems to have sorted it.
I don’t really understand why as when I tested the blueprint against the new Mazda one they both acted in the same way the Mazda one maybe opened a little bit more but not by very much. Many thanks every one hopefully that’s the end of it !

Many thanks Phil

Glad you got sorted , Good bit of feedback too, I reckon the Mazda stat reaches the fully open position sooner than the blueprint one, thus shutting off the recirc/bypass port with the top disc on the stat sooner, at a slightly cooler temp than with the blueprint stat.

its getting a bit more than a few freek occurances now isnt it,
i still cannot get my head round the differences though kirsty,maybe steve w will explain later . wierd

missfixit70 wrote:Glad you got sorted , Good bit of feedback too, I reckon the Mazda stat reaches the fully open position sooner than the blueprint one, thus shutting off the recirc/bypass port with the top disc on the stat sooner, at a slightly cooler temp than with the blueprint stat.

I must admit, I fitted a Blueprint stat last year, & I didn't notice an increase in running temp, it actually dropped by about 10 degrees, but then I cleaned out the intercooler (cooler air into the inlet manifold?) as well as a really thorough chemical flush. It'd be interesting to see if a Mazda stat brought it down further, another one for the round tuit list

mikexgough wrote:

missfixit70 wrote:Glad you got sorted , Good bit of feedback too, I reckon the Mazda stat reaches the fully open position sooner than the blueprint one, thus shutting off the recirc/bypass port with the top disc on the stat sooner, at a slightly cooler temp than with the blueprint stat.

i know what it does,the queery was why it does it.

This is a really interesting thread and I am really glad I checked it out as I am having the same problems with my V6 - new rad, new stat (blueprint) and engine running up at about 100 degrees or even slighter hotter with heaters on full

Just ordered new stat and gasket from Bongo shop . . . so we'll see what happens . .

casrockbongo wrote:This is a really interesting thread and I am really glad I checked it out as I am having the same problems with my V6 - new rad, new stat (blueprint) and engine running up at about 100 degrees or even slighter hotter with heaters on full

Just ordered new stat and gasket from Bongo shop . . . so we'll see what happens . .

Mazda original one? I think it's been said before but check up inside the stat housing to see that the top sealing face is clean & the top disc of the stat can seal against it ok (it looks like it's a similar set up on the V6 to the diesel).

Sorry to hijack this thread. Just posting this for completeness sake for anyone else searching on this topic. Had the same problem with hotter engine following replacement rad, front heater matrix and new stat. Ordered genuine V6 Mazda stat (not blueprint) from the Bongo Fury Shop. Seems to have done the trick.

As an earlier post on this thread stated . . the stat is key...

brill.
love it lots.