Bongo Fury

widdowson2008 wrote:

Northern Bongolow wrote:
just had a brain storm.

if the pump /engine has been stood during head rebuild its possible that the pump has seized in it housing,furred up and stuck really,suggest you confirm that the pump is turning

Agree - see if the pump is running. As Kirsty said at the beginning, 'sounds as if it could be goosed'.
But how do you check its doing its thing? (in fact, this is the question ADAMD asked right at the start.)
Just been out and had a look at mine - With the engine running and the expansion tank filler cap off, I would have thought I would see some sort of disturbance in the coolant but can't see any.
I then felt the hoses after a couple of minutes running and:
- Radiator top hose warm
- Feed to expansion tank warm
- feed out of expansion tank warm
This suggests that coolant is moving through these pipes and around the tank. (I think Just a guess)
If that is true, and ADAMD is getting the same, could we say his pump is working?

Tricky as it could just be convective circulation

with the system COLD and the engine not running try removing the temp sender see if there is air there,it may be air locked there.also while its out either replace or at least clean it gently,especialy as you have had major issues prev issues.ive seen damaged /inaccurate senders after boiling up,also bear in mind if you remove this sender you will have to bleed again.
you could also clean/remove the fan swich while you are at it.

ady, removing the sensor, what should I see? water flowing out.
The fan sensor is new.

Simon, Bottom hose has never managed anything other than cold.
I have found the best place to check it is the other end, at the lower thermostat metal housing.
This feel cold to the touch.

Maybe the fans are coming on too early, never allowing the temperature to rise enough to open the Stat??

ADAMD wrote:ady, removing the sensor, what should I see? water flowing out.
The fan sensor is new............

Maybe the fans are coming on too early, never allowing the temperature to rise enough to open the Stat??

Ady isn't talking about the fan sensor (there isn't one) - He is refering to the coolant temperature sender.
......and the coolant temperature sender is not directly connected to the fans. It sends data to the ECU, and it is the ECU which switches the fans on, first at low speed, and then if the data sent to the ECU still continues to rise, the fans are kicked into high speed.
The reason your fans run is that the ECU is receiving data from the sensor indicating the temperature at the sensor is excessive. So what Ady is saying is check around the sensor (and the sensor itself). Read his post again.

mikeonb4c wrote:
Just been out and had a look at mine - I then felt the hoses after a couple of minutes running and:
- Radiator top hose warm
- Feed to expansion tank warm
- feed out of expansion tank warm
This suggests that coolant is moving through these pipes and around the tank. (I think Just a guess)
If that is true, and ADAMD is getting the same, could we say his pump is working?

Tricky as it could just be convective circulation [/quote]

Not convection Mike - not enough time and too great a distance for convection to take place to that degree.

widdowson2008 wrote:

mikeonb4c wrote:
Just been out and had a look at mine - I then felt the hoses after a couple of minutes running and:
- Radiator top hose warm
- Feed to expansion tank warm
- feed out of expansion tank warm
This suggests that coolant is moving through these pipes and around the tank. (I think Just a guess)
If that is true, and ADAMD is getting the same, could we say his pump is working?

Tricky as it could just be convective circulation

Not convection Mike - not enough time and too great a distance for convection to take place to that degree.[/quote]

Fair enough - not clear from your post (not my quote BTW!) how long engine was running. I wouldn't underestimate hte power of convection though. Anyway, I'm not saying one way or the other, just need to be mindful

thanks for that steve,sorry had to go to work.
what steve said is exactly what happens,and why the point was made,

if you have a boiled or dodgey temp sender it will/may trigger the fans at the wrong time, was this sender swapped over from the old head??if yes bin it. fit gen part only £20 approx from memory and worth every penny.when the fans come on what approx temp is the top hose,can you hold it,how hot is the rad.if you remove the temp sender you should get water not air,but you may get air out,if air is there it will superheat and trigger fans early.

dont give up on this yet the answer is there WE just need to find it,and we all need a southern bleed specialist to build up the network of people who can.

dont start yelling at me for what im about to suggest but ive just read through the thread again and something just aint right!!
you have put the stat in havnt you???
i said dont shout !

Ady, No shouting from me.

Genuine Mazda stat fitted.

But also this!!


this could be causing fans to operate on too early, keeping system from getting hot enought for stat to open.

Any idea where I can get one from around £20 mark, most ones I have seen are nearly double that.
I got my stat for £18 from Mazda, anyon know Mazda part number for sensor.

Thanks again to all for help.

Still not shouting


Adam

mikeonb4c wrote:

widdowson2008 wrote:

mikeonb4c wrote:
Just been out and had a look at mine - I then felt the hoses after a couple of minutes running and:
- Radiator top hose warm
- Feed to expansion tank warm
- feed out of expansion tank warm
This suggests that coolant is moving through these pipes and around the tank. (I think Just a guess)
If that is true, and ADAMD is getting the same, could we say his pump is working?

Tricky as it could just be convective circulation

Not convection Mike - not enough time and too great a distance for convection to take place to that degree.

Fair enough - not clear from your post (not my quote BTW!) how long engine was running. I wouldn't underestimate the power of convection though. Anyway, I'm not saying one way or the other, just need to be mindful [/quote]
Hi Mike
About 2 minutes I would guess - 4 minutes max. (although time is playing funny tricks with my mind lately - an age thing? senility? . From memory, it was Christmas day about a week ago )

as you must have noticed i have amended my post,my legal team, the wife, says i connot say what i said,so i will have to reword the statement.

i on numerous occasions have tryed and fitted parts made by other manufacturers,
TOTAL WASTE OF TIME.
the readings were proved to be miles out .
in my opinion

please,please, please, only fit gen parts that are doing such a vital role,

mazda part numbers for the pictured part is mb59318840a sensor,temp-engine £36.25
mkl011851x unit heat gauge £24.72
fitting the above may not cure your bleed issues as i suspect something else is wrong,
but that said you can only fix sumat that you know is broke,these sensers and switches are critical to the system so must be right.in my opinion!!

i will pm you

10/10 an an extra piece of tuck for Ady,
It appears that my problem was caused by fitting the cheap Intermotor sensor from my local motor factors.
Having fitted the genuine article from Mazda (£42 and you don't even get the sealing washer with it), the fans kept quiet during the bleeding process and the water got much hotter and the stat opened.

With new head and rad, Mason modified guage has yet to go any higher than 12.o'clock so far ( it used to be near H at times)

It is still early days, but head transplant appears to have been successful.

Thanks to all those who have given advise and encouragement.
If anyone needs any help from me, please let me know.

Cheers

Adam

Back in love with Bongo.