Bongo Fury

Shouldn't be too difficult to get the drum off, there's a factsheet in the members area, but if the rear adjusters aren't working it may be a bit more of a pain.
If you aren't sure if it's the pads or shoes sticking, then a bit of engineers blue on the discs (or marker pen across the braking faces, then rotate, if it rubs, the pads/calipers are sticking, if not then its gona be the shoes by elimination.
According to the Handbook, the parking brake should be 9-11 notches, so yours sounds like it's adjusted about right, could be full of solidified brake dust I guess, worth trying to blow out with an airline/brake cleaner if the adjuster doesn't seem to be working & you can't get the drum off, a few gentle taps with a persuader may not go amiss either (usual H&S disclaimers ) .
If it is the pads sticking, then it could be something as simple as the sliders jammmed with crud & it just needs a good clean & a lube with a bit of copper grease. I sorted Ant & Decs at the Bash, brakes were squealing horribly, really hot, the calipers had been painted in situ, the paint had formed a wedge in the rear of the slider, crud built up & stopped the pads sliding back, quick strip down & clean, up & it was sorted.

engineers blue ... not heard that mentioned for years ..

Nowt like a day spent blueing & scraping sodding great bearings

missfixit70 wrote:Shouldn't be too difficult to get the drum off, there's a factsheet in the members area, but if the rear adjusters aren't working it may be a bit more of a pain.
If you aren't sure if it's the pads or shoes sticking, then a bit of engineers blue on the discs (or marker pen across the braking faces, then rotate, if it rubs, the pads/calipers are sticking, if not then its gona be the shoes by elimination.
According to the Handbook, the parking brake should be 9-11 notches, so yours sounds like it's adjusted about right, could be full of solidified brake dust I guess, worth trying to blow out with an airline/brake cleaner if the adjuster doesn't seem to be working & you can't get the drum off, a few gentle taps with a persuader may not go amiss either (usual H&S disclaimers ) .
If it is the pads sticking, then it could be something as simple as the sliders jammmed with crud & it just needs a good clean & a lube with a bit of copper grease. I sorted Ant & Decs at the Bash, brakes were squealing horribly, really hot, the calipers had been painted in situ, the paint had formed a wedge in the rear of the slider, crud built up & stopped the pads sliding back, quick strip down & clean, up & it was sorted.

Thanks for the reply.. i have brake cleaner to hand and grease PENRITE molygrease EP 3%..lithium.
(hope this is good enough for the job.) I will tackle this job this weekend for both rear and front.
Now what is the best way to tackle this at home with limited jacks/lifting equipment..??
just wanted to ask before i start, im sure i have to back off the handbrake knurled knob in the drum??
do i need to take out the pads to clean out the sliding caliper slides etc?? I will be replacing the rear pads as adviced by my machanic...but front ones are o.k..

Just for those (levi8) in oz most car parts shops here only sell Ferrodo or mintex(being more expensive).
part numbers for ferrodo rears are DB 1222 price is $45. from repco..(auotbarn and supercheap do them also but have to order them.
fronts are DB1274, not priced up the fronts but im sure they would be a little dearer..

All you need is one jack & an axle stand or something to chock it up (H&S & all that) Really not a big job, all the info you need is on the factsheet. Wheel off, caliper off, rubber bung out, notch the handrake adjustment jobby back, if it doesn't move there's a threaded hole that can be used to jack it back, that's basically it really