Lights problem

[bigscottishdave]

Right, I have gone over everything to see what is working and what isnt:

To recap what is not working:
1. interior lights
2. indicators (fast ticking occurs when either is switched on)
3. Radio
4. central locking
5. side lights
6. brake lights when brake is applied

What is working:

1. dashboard lights appear to be working apart from the indicators
2. main beam and rear lights

What I have done so far:

1. checked interior fuses and fuses under bonnet. Replaced all blown fuses including the 40A BTN fuse.
2. Sprayed WD40 into the gap on the indicator stalk.

To answer some questions so far asked:

to Jaylee - I do not have a towbar fitted and my doors are manual central locking i.e. i dont have a button for it

to Ian - I have a multi-meter, I have a leisure battery and all the interior lights are off.

I hope that answers any questions.

I appreciate all your help guys. I am a novice with dealing with cars but I am willing to learn and if I ask any stupid questions then I apologise!

Cheers

Dave

[g8dhe]

That is a very odd combination of devices with no obvious single source for failure for a standard vehicle.
So beginning to think along the less obvious lines, suggest you check the fuse(s) associated with the L/B as a starter.
Do you know who fitted the L/B and do you know what circuits are fed from the L/B ? If it hasn't been done by pluging into the normal fuse box down by the drivers knee with feeds from a new fuse box fed from the L/B box then I am wondering if someone has re-routed the entire top row of fuses across to the L/B ?
Does your Horn work ? Top row of fuses
Your mirrors if electronically controlled are on the top row.
Cigar lighters are on the top row.

Do your wipers/washers work ? They are NOT the top row.
Windows again are NOT on the top row.
Side door auto closure is NOT on the top row.
AFT up/down are NOT on the top row but the light in the AFT is on the top row.
Reversing lights are NOT the top row.
Air Con. panel light is NOT from the top row.

It might be worth dropping the internal fuse box down and seeing if the wiring has been altered and then with the meter checking to see which of the fuses (if any) have +12 volts on them when the ignition is turned on, the upper set of contacts are normally fed from two circuits, one switched by the ignition (Red with Black stripe wire) and the others are permanent direct feeds via the BTN fuse from a White with red stripe wire.

[jaylee]

To recap what is not working:
1. interior lights
2. indicators (fast ticking occurs when either is switched on)
3. Radio
4. central locking
5. side lights
6. brake lights when brake is applied



to Jaylee - I do not have a towbar fitted and my doors are manual central locking i.e. i dont have a button for it

I appreciate all your help guys. I am a novice with dealing with cars but I am willing to learn and if I ask any stupid questions then I apologise!

Cheers

Dave

Another "out of the box" idea... To the stuff in blue. Could there have been an alarm fitted at some point & gone duff.. The brain/control being forgot about giving some gyp, the key fob removed going back to manual!!!????
Even the break light thing;(Number 6) some after-market alarms have a feature that triggers a safety lock down on the CL when the ignition is on & the break is applied, when the engine stops the doors unlock & the hazards flash once during this action... The system i fitted has this feature, though i thought it best if i rigged it to a monetary switch on the door instead, & got my windows to close (if open) at the same time!
In fairness, if a defunct alarm system had been rigged/powered unknowingly to the LB it may wig out???

OK, that rules out anything dodgy at the back....

There certainly are some odd combinations of fault here... g8dhe (Geoff's) Plan of action is for sure the way to go tracking this one down.. Just keep an eye out for what might look like an old alarm fitting. Ya never know!

here's a classic example...

Though there would be a siren somewhere under the bonnet or behind the front bumper out of sight!?? Though not if partially removed....

[bigscottishdave]

Hi all,

I have been tinkering with the Bongo along with a friend that is more technically (ex-mechanic) minded.

We have been at it with the voltmeter checking various things and we think there might be loose wire/fuse/relay that has gone.

There is a low amount of voltage coming through the interior fuse for the indicators, much less than the other fuses on the board. We also checked for current going to the rear lights and there was none.

Do you know where the relays for the rear lights and indicators are? We dont know which one is which assuming we are looking at the right ones (under the bonnet behind the lights)

Do you have any other ideas? Its looking like I might have to take it to an electricians. Arrghh!

Dave

[missfixit70]

This may help - http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... rear+light

[g8dhe]

There are two fuses in the interior fuse holder that control the indicators;
The fuse that feeds the "stalk" control;

and the fuse for the lamps themselves;

The circuit is here;


Did you check that somebody hasn't altered the wiring to the fuse panel, especially the top row, when they installed the L/B ?

[bigscottishdave]

Hi guys, I located the relay switches for the lights and they seem ok. I switched the H270's about and it made no difference at all.

I had a look at the back of the interior fuse panel and someone has altered the connections but they seem ok. It is looking like there is a loose wire or something between that point and wherever.......?

I must admit I have nearly exhausted my skills and I may have to admit defeat and take it to an auto electrician. Bloomin annoying to say the least!

Good thing to come out of this is that I am getting to know my Bongo even better : )

[jaylee]

Hi there, I am having a few problems with my lights.

I was driving along at night and the rear lights, indicators and interior lights went out. The front main beam stayed on and the electric windows still worked. I have checked all the fuses and they are ok. I have also checked all the wiring at the back of the dash and there are no loose wires. I am completely stuck. I should also say that the "doors" light on the dash is faintly lit now. Is that indicator to a specific problem?


Cheers

Dave

Right.. losing track of what don't work...

Right, I have gone over everything to see what is working and what isnt:

To recap what is not working:
1. interior lights
2. indicators (fast ticking occurs when either is switched on)
3. Radio
4. central locking
5. side lights
6. brake lights when brake is applied

What is working:

1. dashboard lights appear to be working apart from the indicators
2. main beam and rear lights

What I have done so far:

1. checked interior fuses and fuses under bonnet. Replaced all blown fuses including the 40A BTN fuse.
2. Sprayed WD40 into the gap on the indicator stalk.

To answer some questions so far asked:

to Jaylee - I do not have a towbar fitted and my doors are manual central locking i.e. i dont have a button for it

to Ian - I have a multi-meter, I have a leisure battery and all the interior lights are off.

I hope that answers any questions.

I appreciate all your help guys. I am a novice with dealing with cars but I am willing to learn and if I ask any stupid questions then I apologise!

Cheers

Dave

I'm bouncing ideas off the wall & wondering if the problem (based on the highlighted red) isn't something to do with the connections at the back if your dial/speedo pod....?? May be some thing running to ground???

Bear with me...?!! "the "doors" light on the dash is faintly lit " .. Maybe indicator direction flasher arrows on the dash pod??

What about removing the dial/speedo pod & disconnecting at the back, then trying the indicators & lights..????

Just a thought! Help me out Geoff!!!!

[g8dhe]

If the wiring on the back of the fuse panel has been played with then its anybodies guess
The particular combination of failures can't occur from any single fuse (that hasn't been checked) or chassis connection, unless perhaps half the van has rusted away, in a line across the middle
My thoughts are that the top row of the fuse panel has been re arranged and fed from the L/B and that a fuse or charging relay problem is causing the grief, but its not the sort of thing that can be diagnosed remotely without knowing what's been altered ...

I've not seen a response on these questions;
Does your Horn work ? Top row of fuses
Your mirrors if electronically controlled are on the top row, do they work ?
Cigar lighters are on the top row, do they work ?

Do your wipers/washers work ? They are NOT the top row.
Windows again are NOT on the top row.
Side door auto closure is NOT on the top row.
AFT up/down are NOT on the top row but the light in the AFT is on the top row.
Reversing lights are NOT the top row.
Air Con. panel light is NOT from the top row.

[bigscottishdave]

Hi Geoff,

Apologies for not answering the following questions. In addition to all the other things mentioned before the following does not work:

The horn does not work
The mirrors do not work
The windscreen wipers and washers do work
The cigarette lighter does not work
The light inside the AFT does not work


The following ARE working:
Air con illumination is working
Reversing lights
windows
I havent tried the AFT as it is covered in about 1 foot of snow and ice so i dont want to damage it.



If it helps I have attached a picture of the two wires at the top of the interioir fuse box that look to have been modified:
[img]IMAG0158[/img]

The two wires lead to the liesure battery (below). They connect at the two blue connectors in the left of the picture:

[img]IMAG0159[/img]


Also, Jaylee, I did what you suggested with the dash and it made no difference, still the same.


I am beginning to think that there the wires to the liesure battery are the problem. What do you think?

Dave

[bigscottishdave]

Sorry guys first picture showing the modified wires is:




and the second showing where it conects to the liesure battery is:

[jaylee]

Also, Jaylee, I did what you suggested with the dash and it made no difference, still the same.

Oh well.... Sorry bout that one! I have seen some funny stuff manifest itself centred round there...!

Going with Geoff's post.. ( & i must admit he's helped me out on a couple of head scratchers.) The wiring on the Bongo with crimp connections can be a little hit & miss, that's why i only solder & shrink-wrap connections now!

For instance; i have found on stripping the end of the standard wire in the loom & tying in with a crimp the actual bared off wires on occasions break.. Although the connection can look solid due to the crimp that i notice on this picture having three..
The wire may just be holding in by the plastic sheathing & not connecting properly...??

The middle/third crimp in the blue connector may have consequences on yer problem???




Hope this helps!

[jaylee]

Just seen this.... Is it me, or is there no terminal connection to the LB???

[bigscottishdave]

Hi Jaylee,

I got some wires etc today so I am going to try and replace the connections and see if that does the trick. And dont worry about the lack of terminal connections, I just disconnected them!

I'll give all the rewiring a go and I will get back to you.
Cheers again

Dave

[g8dhe]

Yup, think that just about confirms my thoughts, the top row of fuses have been transferred lock stock and barrel to the L/B, and I suspect that the fuse close to the L/B to the fuse panel has blown or the battery is flat and the fuse(s) in the charging path have blown.

A couple of problems with this transfer of all the fuses, there will be a larger drain on the L/B when switched off as the ECU and depending on model a couple of other circuits will be drawing power and so will flatten the L/B faster than you might expect. Secondly things like the Indicators and horn don't really want to be powered from the L/B as they are intended to run from the S/B. Normally ONLY 4 circuits out of the 8 are transferred, the 10 Amp top row left, the three fuses top row right (3 x 15 Amp).

As regards the fuses around the L/B itself, there should be 3 in-line fuses, the first one will be the feed to the fuse panel inside and should be close to the battery terminal, the next one will also be close to the L/B terminal and will feed the charging relay, a small box with about 4 wires coming from it, the final fuse will be in the cable from the relay to the Starter Battery and will be mounted close to the S/B. If either of these last two fuses have blown then replace BOTH of them, as the one that didn't blow quickest will already have been weakened. These fuses tend to blow when the L/B has been totally flattened and then there is a surge when the charging relay first makes contact - its best to charge the L/B from a mains charger if it has been really flattened. If the fuse from the L/B to the fuse panel has blown then you might want to look deeper as to why that blew, rather than one of the fuses in the interior fuse panel, it might be it and the cabling is not adequately rated for the load from the load from all 8 fuses.