Bongo Fury

Update - I'm calling in to show Simon at Wheelquick's bodyshop my rust patches this Friday afternoon. Figured I'd better get it looked at ASAP, so will see what as he has to say after he has a look.
Fingers crossed!

Cheers again for the replies.

Andrew

Id say the chalkiness as Mike said is basically a lack of proper paintwork maintenance ie a good waxing now and then!! its caused by oxidisation which makes the paint dull and lifeless a regular wash and wax and a regular waxing and buffing will in most cases sort this out.To get any kind of shine on those kind of surfaces it needs a good buffing in some cases a good claying can bring most of this off.There is probably more to it than this but keeping it simple here a little upkeep here and there will payback over time!!


BDC ??? (Any comment) Im sure you have!!

An hour here and there waxing can keep a lot of oxidisation at bay.

Going back to topic thread.........hope its an easy fix Andrew!

mikeonb4c wrote:
Grandads old Mazda has matted red paint. I have a compressor. I wonder if I could persuade him to be a guinea pig, as it couldn't look worse than it does now. Might even lacquer in a few insects for him if he asks me nicely!

I know that song...!

OOOOHHH one day Ma was near the car, you cant see from where you are
When the sun hits the panel there's an outline of her arm, granddads old mat Mazda

A neighbour came around to chat, granddad passed like the proverbial bat
He said what the F'eck was that? granddads old mat Mazda.

Turned out nice again!

Can I have some of what you are drinking please Jay?

I agree if the paint is just dull and oxidised it would be possible to machine polish it, if anyone needs a machine polish in the North East just let me know as i have a polishing machine. As regards to just laquering, it would be possible as long as the paintwork is in reasonable nick, it would involve either wet flatting the surface with 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper and grey scotchbrite pads or you could DA sand the surface with the correct P1000 grit sanding discs but you do have to be careful not to sand through. Similar to the prep you would do for a blend panel.You could then laquer the surface. Anyone who is getting their bodywork done can always ask for the bodyshop to use a clear over base system even on solid colours like black and white. all cars now are finished in clear over base systems.

stuc wrote:I agree if the paint is just dull and oxidised it would be possible to machine polish it, if anyone needs a machine polish in the North East just let me know as i have a polishing machine. As regards to just laquering, it would be possible as long as the paintwork is in reasonable nick, it would involve either wet flatting the surface with 1500-2000 grit wet/dry paper and grey scotchbrite pads or you could DA sand the surface with the correct P1000 grit sanding discs but you do have to be careful not to sand through. Similar to the prep you would do for a blend panel.You could then laquer the surface. Anyone who is getting their bodywork done can always ask for the bodyshop to use a clear over base system even on solid colours like black and white. all cars now are finished in clear over base systems.

Great info there stuc - from one who appears to know

I'd love to try this out on some tired paintwork though, as you say, you couldn't get the same result as a full respray. Might just be a cheap option though, with a reasonable result and reduced chance of rust spots appearing. Tinted lacquer anyone

Dabs wrote:Id say the chalkiness as Mike said is basically a lack of proper paintwork maintenance ie a good waxing now and then!! its caused by oxidisation which makes the paint dull and lifeless a regular wash and wax and a regular waxing and buffing will in most cases sort this out.To get any kind of shine on those kind of surfaces it needs a good buffing in some cases a good claying can bring most of this off.There is probably more to it than this but keeping it simple here a little upkeep here and there will payback over time!!


BDC ??? (Any comment) Im sure you have!!

An hour here and there waxing can keep a lot of oxidisation at bay.

Going back to topic thread.........hope its an easy fix Andrew!

If a painted surface is properly decontaminated (clay bar or whatever) Then follow up waxings acts as a protector for the unblemished paint underneath... It's no good just slapping a wax on contaminated paintwork though, as all you'll do is seal the contaminants in.

bigdaddycain wrote:

Dabs wrote:Id say the chalkiness as Mike said is basically a lack of proper paintwork maintenance ie a good waxing now and then!! its caused by oxidisation which makes the paint dull and lifeless a regular wash and wax and a regular waxing and buffing will in most cases sort this out.To get any kind of shine on those kind of surfaces it needs a good buffing in some cases a good claying can bring most of this off.There is probably more to it than this but keeping it simple here a little upkeep here and there will payback over time!!


BDC ??? (Any comment) Im sure you have!!

An hour here and there waxing can keep a lot of oxidisation at bay.

Going back to topic thread.........hope its an easy fix Andrew!

If a painted surface is properly decontaminated (clay bar or whatever) Then follow up waxings acts as a protector for the unblemished paint underneath... It's no good just slapping a wax on contaminated paintwork though, as all you'll do is seal the contaminants in.

What I like about lacquering is that, for the lazy among us ( ) it will seal the paint a lot longer agaist acidic rain etc. than just waxing. But to stress again, this is a totally whacky idea of mine - don't try it on a cherished car (mind you would it be cherished for much longer if its paint was naff and being neglected) until/unless we can find some real evidence that it works and looks OK.

Laquer will deteriorate the same as solid colours as it is the UV rays that break down the laquer, same as fibreglass resin which is affected by UV. Cheap paint is usually the cause of oxidisation and other problems along with bad application. It will not show up as much on laquer though. If you use a cheap laquer it will not last very long,you get what you pay for, so for the extra cost you would be better off using basecoat then laquer. The laquer we use is about £300 for 5 litres and will last as long as a factory finish if applied correctly. I have used tinted clearcoats on 3 stage pearls and also added small amounts of metallic into laquer when trying to get something different it does look good but dont add too much.

Well, how bizarre! I havent been on my PC for a few days and this thread went wild. I asked elsewhere but my spots are by far less serious than those in the picture! I was only asking so I know what to do to protect them, but seeing as the rust on that frame looks about 10 times worse than anything I've seen, I'll step right out of here! I'll leave mine alone!

Picked up the bongo this morning from Simon at Alexander's - cracking job done, so very pleased.
Will post some pics up later. Thanks to BDC for the recommendation.

Cheers

Andrew

OH so it was yours having the work done, i had to wait to get mine booked in to Simon's because your bongo was in the way.
Simon does a good job, very thorough in what he does.

Few pics of the work done













Very pleased with what was done, at a reasonable price too. Plus got 45.3 MPG on the trip there and back! Very happy.

Cheers

Andrew

That looks Mint matey!!

Nice job!