Fridge Help urgently needed..

[Iwannabongo]

Hi

We are new and have recently bought a Bongo with a Zig CF9 panel and Vitrifrigo fridge. When the panel is set to (left switch) off, Leisure Batt, Mains Off and (right switch) to 'Charger' the fridge works fine. However on H/U (and tested at home), when I connect the mains, switch (right switch) to ON, Mains (orange) to On and the (left switch) on - the fridge does not work.

I am probably being thick and maybe have the switches selected wrong..

Can someone PLEEESE help, as we are going away at the end of the week and need the fridge on Mains, but I am worried I will end up with a box of very runny cheese again!! ...


Many thanks

Not sure if yours is the same, but I had a similar problem when I bought my converted bongo earlier in the year.
I have a zig panel which has three way rocker Car/Off/Caravan. When I switched it to caravan, I expected this to be running off the LB, but nothing was on.
I got in contact with the converters and they told me that the LB and EHU is connected to the car switch only. So when it is switched to car everything is then run off the LB which in turn is also charged while on EHU.
It might be worth undoing the zig panel and seeing what is connected behind it or phoning the converters themselves so they can tell you the set up of the zig.
It does do your head in though, not knowing
Good luck

[KenBongo]

We were given some basic instructions - a photo of the panel with some notes on showing how to have the switches for driving, on site etc.., but even following these instructions it does not seem to work as it should. We contacted the supplier, who said 99% of the time it is user error, but they can have a look at it if we want.

We're out in it this weekend on site, so we'll just try all the switch combinations again until we find something that works (and then let the supplier know if his instructions are wrong!) - and failing that, it's going back. We've only had it 7 weeks, so a bit reluctant to be taking things to bits just in case we invalidate any warranty we have. Let you know how we get on.

[Iwannabongo]

We were given some basic instructions - a photo of the panel with some notes on showing how to have the switches for driving, on site etc.., but even following these instructions it does not seem to work as it should. We contacted the supplier, who said 99% of the time it is user error, but they can have a look at it if we want.

We're out in it this weekend on site, so we'll just try all the switch combinations again until we find something that works (and then let the supplier know if his instructions are wrong!) - and failing that, it's going back. We've only had it 7 weeks, so a bit reluctant to be taking things to bits just in case we invalidate any warranty we have. Let you know how we get on.

I would probably agree that there is nothing wrong with the zig, it's just how it could be wired up as to which switches you need to turn on.
I am sure you have, but have you checked all the glass fuses in the front of the zig panel?
I had a similar situation and it was very annoying, but nice when I realised how it was wired up.

[Jaws]

Jaws

I cant understand why his fridge doesn't work on hook up. Seems really odd given that our set ups sound the same.
I too intend to fit and illuminated switch as I still think its too easy to inadvertently leave the fridge on.

Not sure why you would need the Willinton kit when the Zig does it anyway, can you elaborate on that please.

Well the link from SB to Zig on my conversion looks like it is meant carry about 15amps max and must be at least 4m long. The link back to the LB is much the same length. So the charging supply from the alternator would have to run through about 10m of quite small cable to get to the LB. You also have to remember to have the Zig set to "towing" mode.

IMHO this gives rise to a significant voltage drop, particularly if the LB is low after a period of wild camping and a high charging current is needed. In short the Zig hook up will trickle charge the LB but the willinton or similar split charge relay has much shorter cables rated at 50amp plus and will recharge the LB much more quickly and effectively without having to switch anything.

Quite apart from this, it means you can disconnect the SB from the Zig entirely and so never have to worry that you are draining it by mistake and makes it easier to work out which way to set the switches to make things work.

I am also perplexed as to the fridge not working on hook up

[KenBongo]

Well, well, well. Back from a weekend away in the Bongo, EHU, and lovely cold beers!

Used the same switch combination we had tried before, but this time it worked - just like Bisto_Blue, it seemed to fix itself. Weird.

12v on / LB / Mains on / On-site - was the winning combination! Just don't know why this didn't work on Tuesday night when we were plugged into the garage to test it.

Thanks for your responses guys