Alternator service/recon pack?

[Northern Bongolow]

on the link kisty put up to lush projects it states the output from a gen mazda alternator should be 90 amps.
any one know why the ones for sale are generally 70 amp.
these appear to be for a maz b2500, or ranger but are listed to fit a bongo. is this contributing to the high failure rate of (bongo) ones.
as i have stated on other threads i have seen several recent failures of the 70 amp ones when fitted to bongo's, usually within a year.
is the lower ampage significant enough to cause problems, or is it down to a quality issue ?

[Doone]

on the link kisty put up to lush projects it states the output from a gen mazda alternator should be 90 amps.
any one know why the ones for sale are generally 70 amp.
these appear to be for a maz b2500, or ranger but are listed to fit a bongo. is this contributing to the high failure rate of (bongo) ones.
as i have stated on other threads i have seen several recent failures of the 70 amp ones when fitted to bongo's, usually within a year.
is the lower ampage significant enough to cause problems, or is it down to a quality issue ?
on the link kisty put up to lush projects it states the output from a gen mazda alternator should be 90 amps.
any one know why the ones for sale are generally 70 amp.
these appear to be for a maz b2500, or ranger but are listed to fit a bongo. is this contributing to the high failure rate of (bongo) ones.
as i have stated on other threads i have seen several recent failures of the 70 amp ones when fitted to bongo's, usually within a year.
is the lower ampage significant enough to cause problems, or is it down to a quality issue ?

I was discussing this alternator thread with Allan last night. So I know that the alternators that he fits/sells are 90amp, and he has never had a problem with them.
Wouldn't a 70 amp alternator be working too hard, get too hot, and wear out more quickly?

[teenmal]

on the link kisty put up to lush projects it states the output from a gen mazda alternator should be 90 amps.
any one know why the ones for sale are generally 70 amp.
these appear to be for a maz b2500, or ranger but are listed to fit a bongo. is this contributing to the high failure rate of (bongo) ones.
as i have stated on other threads i have seen several recent failures of the 70 amp ones when fitted to bongo's, usually within a year.
is the lower ampage significant enough to cause problems, or is it down to a quality issue ?

90 Amp Alternators,and these guys know the business,first class.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-2 ... 4841963644

[missfixit70]

But even that is a non standard one (note the 2 pin fly lead - it'll be 3 pin on the alternator) I saw a brand new one yesterday from a supplier in Plymouth (not sure if it's the same supplier) & it was an 80 amp . If anything, most bongos, especially if converted, with leisure batteries etc & added gadgets, could probably do with an uprated alternator .

But back on topic, tried another supplier, in Telford - autoelectrics.net -

"Hi Kirsty,
The parts list for this unit lists only

Bearings
Stator
Rotor
Brush box

may be able to source other parts but would need nos from components.

Best regards
Kevin
[email protected]"

So if anyone has a genuine Hitachi LR190-731 lurking that they're willing to strip to get the component part no's from the indivdual components, it may help the search?

[Northern Bongolow]

by some strange coincidence geoff the sparks is arriving at my house in the next 20 mins, and i have one under the bed.
think i may make him very welcome when he arrives.

[Northern Bongolow]

soldered joints



rivits



geoff and evil (not really) edna have just left after the inspection of the internals of a gen hitatchi alternator,to find out if it would be possible to home service this item.
above are several pics taken, but i will leave geoff to fill in the script shortly.
no markings /part numbers were noted on the parts we examined.

[Evil Edna]

Thanks for the Brews! I'll kick Geoff into action in a mo - just transferring panos of the panopticons!

[g8dhe]

OK, well just got back in, so my comments here (Thanks for the drinks Ady ;
The joints on to the windings were crimped and soldered however running a finger nail down the solder joints didn't scratch them so I suspect either a high temperature solder or possibly even silver solder, given the vibration and currents involved it wouldn't surprise me so that might be a problem unless you have a suitable equipment.
The rivets seemed also to be current carrying tabs between components, not totally sure which connections they were but again they would pose a problem as they looked just like pop rivets done up from the underside.
None of the components appeared to have part numbers that could be looked up which is what we were hoping to find the only visible markings were three "25" stamps which were less than helpful!
The one thing that was clear was that the entire connector / brush / regulator / rectifier assembly appeared to be one unit riveted together before assembly as one of the "layers" at the back of the alternator - being a working unit we didn't feel inclined to possibly destroy it to get it out ... !
It would perhaps need a dead unit that could possibly be sacrificed to an investigation.

Aha ha see I've been beaten to the first response!

[missfixit70]

Not quite the outcome I was hoping for, but not giving up yet

[g8dhe]

Yes I was surprised that there are no apparent markings on any of the parts, or at least not visible from the rear end or edges. Taking the unit apart, is practical but a reasonable amount of engineering will be needed to put it back together, not some think for the faint hearted, especially the riveting of the parts, if they really are going to be carrying the the output of the alternator then a revetted joint carrying 90 Amps needs a fair bit of compression to remain solid over time !