Bongo Fury

mikeonb4c wrote: you worked it out, but can his drawings be turned into backlit LCD devices capable of mounting in a Bongo and outputting in response to multiple sensor input

Say yes Steve

What about some sort of iPhone app??!!

mikeonb4c wrote: you worked it out, but can his drawings be turned into backlit LCD devices capable of mounting in a Bongo and outputting in response to multiple sensor input

Say yes Steve

What about some sort of iPhone app??!!

jaylee wrote:

mikeonb4c wrote: you worked it out, but can his drawings be turned into backlit LCD devices capable of mounting in a Bongo and outputting in response to multiple sensor input

Say yes Steve

What about some sort of iPhone app??!!

Heresy... Android.

Score - just got a 240x128 blue backlit LCD on eBay for just over £6 delivered.

Driver+Passengers wrote:

jaylee wrote:

mikeonb4c wrote: you worked it out, but can his drawings be turned into backlit LCD devices capable of mounting in a Bongo and outputting in response to multiple sensor input

Say yes Steve

What about some sort of iPhone app??!!

Heresy... Android.

Only for the really paranoid!

Driver+Passengers wrote:Score - just got a 240x128 blue backlit LCD on eBay for just over £6 delivered.

Excellent..! Can't wait till the end result...

Half way through making 5x probes - conclusion? Buy them!

Driver+Passengers wrote:Half way through making 5x probes - conclusion? Buy them!

Batch 1 complete.



Though these are 1-wire devices, I've gone for three. They are able to derive their power from the data line and they could get ground from the vehicle chassis, but there are limitations to the former and I didn't want to have to rely on the latter (eg in the roof?). So taping a third wire onto twin speaker wire was a bit labour intensive for a start.

The probe casing I cut from stainless steel tube I got from eBay. 8mm with 1mm wall was a bit overkill and they're a bit slow to lose heat, but they should be responsive enough for the purpose. I might try something smaller with a 0.5 or 0.25mm wall.

I soldered the wires to the legs of the DS18B20s and used heat shrink to isolate the legs from the casing and one another. Stuffed them on up there and syringed in some epoxy (kinda like this, but poorly accomplished). Oh, and I wouldn't trust this batch in water so no kettle-test for me. I also got a bit heavy with the pliers trying to stuff one in the tube that I've only got 4 working probes - 1x 70cm, 2x 1m, 1x 2m).

The conclusion is that for £3/4 or whatever on eBay, you can get ready made up DS18B20 leads. However, I've still got 14 chips left...

Driver+Passengers wrote:

Driver+Passengers wrote:Half way through making 5x probes - conclusion? Buy them!

Batch 1 complete.



Though these are 1-wire devices, I've gone for three. They are able to derive their power from the data line and they could get ground from the vehicle chassis, but there are limitations to the former and I didn't want to have to rely on the latter (eg in the roof?). So taping a third wire onto twin speaker wire was a bit labour intensive for a start.

The probe casing I cut from stainless steel tube I got from eBay. 8mm with 1mm wall was a bit overkill and they're a bit slow to lose heat, but they should be responsive enough for the purpose. I might try something smaller with a 0.5 or 0.25mm wall.

I soldered the wires to the legs of the DS18B20s and used heat shrink to isolate the legs from the casing and one another. Stuffed them on up there and syringed in some epoxy (kinda like this, but poorly accomplished). Oh, and I wouldn't trust this batch in water so no kettle-test for me. I also got a bit heavy with the pliers trying to stuff one in the tube that I've only got 4 working probes - 1x 70cm, 2x 1m, 1x 2m).

The conclusion is that for £3/4 or whatever on eBay, you can get ready made up DS18B20 leads. However, I've still got 14 chips left...

Coming together nicely..!

Grab handle bolt points, are a great/reliable/ready made place to earth anything electrical in the roof... Should you need to?


Just throwing light on where i mean!

I've just got back from a jolly down Kent way so only just picked up on this, and it's getting interesting. Amazing what you can get aint it?
For what it's worth, these are my thoughts based on what I have found out and from listening to others:
My reason for doing tests all stem from the fact that the single, most expensive item to go wrong is the head, and anything that can help to give an early warning has got to be the way forward, and that is the reason I purchased a TM-2.
I originally fitted it in the position as recommended (at the time of purchase - since altered) which was on the passenger side of the head - 2nd bolt back. After studying the system and speaking with others, I realised that the most informative place to get a reading was where the coolant leaves the head (the hottest coolant). The absolute ideal would be a sensor to replace the Mazda temperature gauge sensor at the front of the head but I couldn't find one substantial enough. Next best place would be an in-line sensor at the top hose stub, but I discounted this as being intrusive - I didn't feel happy about creating two more potential leak spots into the system.
I settled for the top hose metal stub, and this works very well, albeit a bit of a fiddle to fix.
Haydns current recommended position is a far simpler one, but you have to bear in mind that it only simulates the coolant temperature (nearest coolant is 50mm away). Having said that, it does give a good indication of what is happening.

Mike - I now have data and graphs of 4 Bongos with the sensor fitted to the top hose stub and they are all generally as shown below.
Maybe this sort of visual display could be a possible answer (if it could be arranged).
- Red and Blue dotted lines are stat max lift and closed.
- Main graph (blue) are the TM-2 readings
So as long as the ongoing TM-2 readings are somewhere between the Red and Blue stat positions, then the system is in control.

widdowson2008 wrote:Mike - I now have data and graphs of 4 Bongos with the sensor fitted to the top hose stub and they are all generally as shown below.

I should be able to add revs/speed, idle and TPS once I get the ECU harness going, then a low-G 3-axis accelerometer! Somebody stop me.

Driver+Passengers wrote: .....Somebody stop me.

Not me pal. I'll be shovin' you on.

Holy crap - what have we started here. This could get really interesting. I wonder if the backlit display manufacturer could be persuaded to do one using widdowsons Bongo engine diagram. Then we'd really be cooking with gas

Here's some progress - in the picture are the ECU connector, 3-axis accelerometer, ultrasonic distance sensor, SD card holder, 240x128 LCD, buzzer and Arduino.

Love it..!