Bongo Fury

Yes the feedback from the lambda sensor is used to correct the air-fuel ratio so it is definitely needed.

Thanks - what is involved in changing the sensor. I'm 70 years old so days of rolling about under car is over. Can it be reached by getting under front seats?

There is a special tool, effectively its a long reach socket with a slot down it for the wiring. It can take a bit of effort to shift the old sensor but otherwise its unplug, unscrew and replace. The replacement should come with special high temperature grease.
Someone else will advise on how you get to it on the 2ltr.

This is the location on the V6 I don't think its much different on the 2l, click for full size image;


Strangely I can't locate it on the Lush project diagrams, either for the V6 or the 2l ??

This should be the 2.0 location ..

mikeWalsall wrote:18-861 fitted to exhausts front pipe ..

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... 02.html#12

I finally decided to get a sensor from the main dealer (£196) which I am now waiting for. So decided to try to loosen the old one. Piece of cake to get at - lift passenger seat and there it is within easy reach. But, could I shift it - could I hell! Tried copious amount of WD40 and plenty of welly but to no avail. Then I tried the freeze stuff and that did the trick and off it came.

Job now completed but check engine light still on. Can anyone tell me how to get rid of it without the use of a code reader. I seem to recall seeing somewhere that it will go out after 200 miles.

It should go out if you disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or so - be wary of losing radio codes though.

Thanks for that - I tried what you suggested but no luck and then disconnected battery overnight - still no luck. Any other suggestions?

Take it back to the garage where you had the scan done and see if it is now giving the same or a different code, you may have more than one problem.

Some more info on the original code. This one mentions a fuse for the oxygen sensor although it shows a three wire sensor whereas the Bongo (or at least the V6) is two wire.

http://engine-codes.com/p0135_mazda.html

I am pleased to say that everything is now OK. I tried everything suggested to get rid of the check engine warning light but nothing worked and I thought it would be a bit cheeky to go back to the garage seeing as I had done the job myself. So I took a punt on a scanner and 17 pin adapter I found on ebay and it worked perfectly. The ones I got are:- Mazda Fault Code Reader Engine Scanner Diagnostic Tool OBD2 CAN BUS EOBD(230871771845) - it's actually an Autel MaxiScan MS 309 - and Mazda/Ford Ranger 17 Pin to 16 Pin OBD2 code scanner diagnostic cable adapter(390688086595).

Did you just reset the engine management light or were you able to read any stored DTC's?

Just looked & you can get the Autel model for £13.25 inc postage from UK seller. That's mega cheap - will get one to add to my collection

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-AUTEL-Max ... 4612e8963d

Could do both read dtcs and erase lights. It did occur to me that with the one I bought being advertised as Mazda, was there something different to it compared to the normal MS309.