Bongo Fury

Excellent thanks. So, once I've marked the original alignment and fixed the steering in place, can I simply undo the bolts on the UJ and will then have enough space to slide it off its splines or will I need to loosen other parts of the steering first to allow enough movement to get the UJ out and back in?

There's enough space to slide it further up the steering column so it disengages from the rack, and then back off the column. It's tight though, you need a hammer & screwdriver to nudge it up & down the splines. You'll also need to remove the airbox so you have access from above.

Thanks for the excellent info. This forum is so helpful and quick to respond. When time allows, I'll check out the UJ and replace if necessary.

Some info here on sources of replacement parts: http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... =3&t=69420

the uj fixes on with a pinch bolt system both top and bottom, so as you tighten the bolt it closes the slot to trap the shaft, dont be tempted to try to widen the slots to allow it to slide on/off the shaft easier, if you open the joint with a big screwdriver you will alter the shape of the joint with the bearings in, this can knacker the joint.
as muz says above use a hammer and long screwdriver to gently tap the joint off the shaft.

I finally got round to trying to remove the UJ. Marked it up for reassembly purposes, locked sterring wheel in place, removed pinch bolts, but was unable to get the joint to move on the splines at all despite trying to coax with a screwdriver and hammer. Any suggestions welcome.

which way are you trying to remove it. you must first knock the joint up the steering shaft and off the steering rack, then when it comes off knock it down hill off the steering shaft. it will not remove steering shaft off first.

Yep, tried to knock it up the shaft so that it could be removed from the steering rack side and then back down again, but couldn't get it to budge. I didn't want to get to rough with it as I was only taking it off to see if it was worn and didn't have a replacement and if I broke it I would be stuck without it for a while.

lubricate the splines first and tap up and down a little bit each way, sometimes you just have to lean on the pinched joint split with a broad blade screwdriver. BUT if you open the joint too much it alters the geometry of the joint meaning you can bend it so that the joint tends to tighten up on the T piece and upset the angles of the internals. hence my warning in my earlier post.

I very much took your earlier warning to heart and didn't try prising open the pinch rings at all, so I might try that a little and give an even more liberal spray with penetrating oil. Can the joint take some abuse or will the screwdriver and hammer smash it beyond a usable state?

the metal seems to be very soft so do take care. the hammer and screwdriver knocking will mark the joint.

Had my steering UV start to seize up and the best thing I find is to use a good quality motorbike
spray chain lube they come out thin to penetrate and then thicken up to a grease that stick's
just like that brown stuff. Jack the front up and get someone turn the steering back and forth while you
give them a good spray. There are two joints one inside above the brake pedal and one under the
bonnet.Work's a treat.