Bongo Fury

You just need to clean up the connectors, unless they have corroded thru the metal itself, not usually the case, use sandpaper or a small file to gentle clean the surfaces that mate together so that clean metal is touching, give it a dose of WD40 and reconnect, remember to do both sides of the connector.

If its the wire itself going into the connector, then yes if you can get the right sized connector, by all means cut-off the connector strip clean the wires and re-crimp but if you do try to get hold of a proper ratchet crimping tool not a cheap hand crimper as its unlikely that you will get a good connection for any length of time on such a larger higher current carrying connector.

Thanks for getting back so quickly Geoff
Just To be clear the male part , on the relay , is perfectly clean , it's the female connector on the cable which has the green corrosion . I can see the corrosion from underneath but can't tell how far it goes in ?
I'll try and get a new connector if I can ,do you know if that size female spades is available ? About 8.5-9 mm wide
Brian

Maybe this size?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/370592790873?c ... k2EALw_wcB

Merlot man wrote: Tue Mar 17, 2020 8:16 pm I'll try and get a new connector if I can ,do you know if that size female spades is available ? About 8.5-9 mm wide

I had some problems finding the right size Tab for the one on the fusible link as I recall, had to make do with one that seemed to be about 0.1mm to small this is the one I used on the fusible link https://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity- ... 9d0a180511 its a .312"=7.9mm

Please don't solder flexible cables subject to vibration!!! The vibration will cause the solder joint to fail in due course, often in short order. Crimping maintains the flexibility right up to the connector itself.

Thanks again for your input gents , it's really helps
I'm going to try and remove the brown insulation using a Stanley knife to see if I can simply clean the corrosion , depending on how bad it is , then reattach it .what do people think of this approach ?
Would the end of one of your fuseible links work on the relay Geoff , I could connect the other end using a straight connector maybe I could get one from Ian in the shop . Or is this a bad idea ?
Thanks again and sorry I only seem to be asking more questions
Brian

Yes if the wires can be cleaned then thats fine.
Not sure what size connector is on the relay itself, so that one I listed might not be the right size, but Farnell do have a wide range so you may find a suitable size if you go down the listings. The length of the fusible link won't be enough to reach the relay and once crimped the connectors are not really re-usable

I no longer have access to the research papers that BT did on the subject at the Dollis Hill then Martelsham & Adstral Park. It was a VERY serious concern to us back in the day but crimping won out.
However this write-up covers a lot of the aspects https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/mo ... or-solder/
and a search on Google will find plenty of discussion https://www.google.co.uk/search?num=100 ... v+crimping

As an add on to the tool kit a ratchet crimper isn't that dear:

https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/ratchet-cr ... mnEALw_wcB

Yup there is a good range here as well at sensible prices (watch for Vat inc. price in brackets) https://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=ratchet%20crimper

Not talking about PCB components where the item is supported by the board itself and the component leads keep things in place.

I'm only referring to the termination of multi-strand flexible wires in an environment where there is vibration causing flexing between the wire form itself and point of termination, typically the fusible link, the connector is just hanging free in space with no support to pin or receptacle, this gets flexed on a frequent basis due to normal vibration, its why multi-strand wire as opposed to a single solid wire is used. If you solder the multi-strand then it becomes a single strand which is unable to flex and so ends up cracking at the joint.

If your terminating an unsupported flexible wire to a PCB then its normal to use a crimped wire termination which is then soldered to the board

Hello all
I've been working away at this today and I think I have it !
I suspected that the relay was dodgy and I got a good used one from bongo spares , it got delivered today so I fitted it to see .
The chattering has gone , all you hear Is the relay clicking in and when the glow plug light goes off she fires straight away with no hesitation at all ! So I hope I ha e it sorted but only time will tell .
Thanks to all contributes to this post
Brian

Merlot man wrote: Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:13 pm Hello all
I've been working away at this today and I think I have it !
I suspected that the relay was dodgy and I got a good used one from bongo spares , it got delivered today so I fitted it to see .
The chattering has gone , all you hear Is the relay clicking in and when the glow plug light goes off she fires straight away with no hesitation at all ! So I hope I ha e it sorted but only time will tell .
Thanks to all contributes to this post
Brian

Fantastic and well done. At last some good news

Thanks Mike , let's hope so !