power loss on hills
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
Re: power loss on hills
This may be totally different, but I had a very similar thing while travelling through France- it was always when going uphill but usually when the tank was less than half full- seemed weird but over half and it was OK. Changing all the filters and blanking off the EGR seemed to fix it. (apologies if you've been through all that...)
Re: power loss on hills
Fault codes are not always a diagnosis, but they can be a pointer in the right direction.
If you read all the way through THIS THREAD it describes similar problems and fault codes, with various solutions, from a replacement sensor to a new (previously collapsed) tube.
If you read all the way through THIS THREAD it describes similar problems and fault codes, with various solutions, from a replacement sensor to a new (previously collapsed) tube.
Allans Garage retired. Try PGS (Plymouth Garage Services) or Mayflower Auto Services Plymouth
- dandywarhol
- Supreme Being
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- Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:18 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Re: power loss on hills
Most of the info on the forum pages relates to the old type '95 - 98 Bongos with a non electronic fuel pump and simple (?) ECU. So well meant info can be irrelevant.
This problem is related to an electronic fuel pump and is a different animal to interrogate.
This problem is related to an electronic fuel pump and is a different animal to interrogate.
Whale oil beef hooked
Renault Lunar Telstar
Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
Renault Lunar Telstar
Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
Re: power loss on hills
Ok I have a little bit more information.

when the engine starts the brown valve/switch/actuator? starts to make a clicking sound.
this is opening the valve which allows vacumm into the tube indicated (1-2)
this sucks in the direction 1 towards 2 and closes the waste gate allowing the turbo to build up power.
when the engine gets hot after 15 mins. The pulsing earth signal stops traveling along the white wire to the brown plastic thing shown as 3. The effect of this is that the vaccum along the tube 1-2 is shut off, the waste gate comes open, releasing boost pressure, (hense power loss) and the glow plug light starts flashing.
Presumeably the ECU is sending the signal to turn off the turbo based on inforamtion recieved from a temperature sensor?
earthing the white wire in figure there sends a pulse to the value which reactives the valve, allowing vacuum to the turbo once more. However once the engine is warm the vale then causeses the turbo to shut off again.
I hope this makes sense to someone.
The garage say that all the pipes are connected correctly to the turbo.
If the valve 3 is bypassed, then the pressure stays on and I get boost, but obviously I have no boost controll and would probably blow the engine up if I drove it like that.
in addition it now takes 15 minutes when starting from warm for the glowplug light to come on rather thean the 30sec it used to take when I had a hole in the radiatior/coolent leek/overheating.
I'm thinking coolent temperature sensor?

when the engine starts the brown valve/switch/actuator? starts to make a clicking sound.
this is opening the valve which allows vacumm into the tube indicated (1-2)
this sucks in the direction 1 towards 2 and closes the waste gate allowing the turbo to build up power.
when the engine gets hot after 15 mins. The pulsing earth signal stops traveling along the white wire to the brown plastic thing shown as 3. The effect of this is that the vaccum along the tube 1-2 is shut off, the waste gate comes open, releasing boost pressure, (hense power loss) and the glow plug light starts flashing.
Presumeably the ECU is sending the signal to turn off the turbo based on inforamtion recieved from a temperature sensor?
earthing the white wire in figure there sends a pulse to the value which reactives the valve, allowing vacuum to the turbo once more. However once the engine is warm the vale then causeses the turbo to shut off again.
I hope this makes sense to someone.
The garage say that all the pipes are connected correctly to the turbo.
If the valve 3 is bypassed, then the pressure stays on and I get boost, but obviously I have no boost controll and would probably blow the engine up if I drove it like that.
in addition it now takes 15 minutes when starting from warm for the glowplug light to come on rather thean the 30sec it used to take when I had a hole in the radiatior/coolent leek/overheating.
I'm thinking coolent temperature sensor?
- missfixit70
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Re: power loss on hills
In that case, this may be of some help - http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... =3&t=37905
You can't polish a turd - but you can roll it in glitter.
Re: power loss on hills
However, I know nothing and am most likely wrong 

Re: power loss on hills
If anyones looking for info on the newer Bongo, the posts from 'BongoJim' (on the link above) are for a newer type W reg year 2000 Bongo, with the newer pump.Most of the info on the forum pages relates to the old type '95 - 98 Bongos with a non electronic fuel pump and simple (?) ECU. So well meant info can be irrelevant.
Allans Garage retired. Try PGS (Plymouth Garage Services) or Mayflower Auto Services Plymouth
- dandywarhol
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Re: power loss on hills
I'd like to see under that heat shield. I've never seen a wastgate actuator with VACUUM going to it
It looks very like (if not identical to) the pre electronic pump engines which have BOOST PRESSURE going to the actuator and PUSHING the actuator rod to the rear of the van and OPENS the wastegate to prevent overboost.
I'm assuming repair man chummy fitted the correct turbo??

I'm assuming repair man chummy fitted the correct turbo??
Whale oil beef hooked
Renault Lunar Telstar
Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
Renault Lunar Telstar
Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
Re: power loss on hills
I supplied the turbo from breakersyard.com
Its a VJ029
I'm assuming they replaced the origional turbo by just copying the pre-existing set up.
Its a VJ029
I'm assuming they replaced the origional turbo by just copying the pre-existing set up.
Re: power loss on hills
[edited] Ok. i've exhausted all the decent garages in my local area, and they've all given up.
All I have to show for it is some diagnostics .
When the engine gets warm after about 10 minutes
the glow plug starts flashing and the ECU diables the turbo as
part of a 'limp-home -mode'
The first 2 error codes given to me by the first garage
(which were 'wastegate' and boost pressure valve')
appear to be either spurious, or merely indicative of the fact the vehical was in safe mode.
The new diagnostics specialist says that 3 error codes appear similtaneously
with the flashing glowplug light, and the disabling of the turbo.
1) air intake temperature sensor
2) accelerator pedal
3) diesel pump pressure sensor
Any more ideas?
Anyone on here volunteer to have a look and solve my nightmare?
All I have to show for it is some diagnostics .
When the engine gets warm after about 10 minutes
the glow plug starts flashing and the ECU diables the turbo as
part of a 'limp-home -mode'
The first 2 error codes given to me by the first garage
(which were 'wastegate' and boost pressure valve')
appear to be either spurious, or merely indicative of the fact the vehical was in safe mode.
The new diagnostics specialist says that 3 error codes appear similtaneously
with the flashing glowplug light, and the disabling of the turbo.
1) air intake temperature sensor
2) accelerator pedal
3) diesel pump pressure sensor
Any more ideas?
Anyone on here volunteer to have a look and solve my nightmare?
Last edited by berrega on Thu Feb 11, 2010 10:07 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: power loss on hills
What year is your Bongo?
Is it def drive-by-wire?
Is it def drive-by-wire?
Re: power loss on hills
It is 2000,..
it is definitely fly-by-wire..
and I'm beginning to think it is evil,... and if not,.. then definitely not a very happy Bongo
it is definitely fly-by-wire..
and I'm beginning to think it is evil,... and if not,.. then definitely not a very happy Bongo
Re: power loss on hills
Are the injectors on this type electrically operated or does the injector pump still distribute the fuel?
Re: power loss on hills
I don't know the answer to that one.
Re: power loss on hills
Just had a look at the diagram and it looks as if the pump is not dissimilar to the pre 99 varient. In which case, you could have the same issue I am currently having with mine. See the http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 1&start=15 thread.