Bongo Fury

helen&tony wrote:Hi
Dunslair...
Although we get cold over here, I had rather thought that it's just age, and constant heating and cooling, as the broken stubs look crystalline like broken bakelite, suggesting a gradual degradation of the plastic. I had both front and rear matrices fail within 7 months, and I did the front, and the rear is to be done. I rather favour getting an all- metal one, and that comes down to weighing up cost/ reliability...I just can't justify replacing it with a plastic one here...breakdown services are appalling!
Cheers
Helen

I think ours was down to extreme temps last winter (but would agree most will be down to age) With the value of hindsight I should have checked our coolent strength before the really cold weather. Our matrix was less than 6 years old when it failed And there were no signs of the plastic being brittle. The exception that proves the rule I would certainly favour an all metal one if it could be done.
Bring on the Spring!!!!

All the best

David.

Thanks for all the help guys and gals - just a couple of quick q's

Helen,
are you able to post pics of the permanent bypass as I can't quite seem to picture what you mean. I was going to do it how Ron Miel (I think did his) using a short piece of copper tubing between the two hoses that go up into the heater matrix.

Dunslair,
from your description it sounds like replacing the unit is likely to be a real pain in the a**. If it entails taking an inner panel off I'm really going to struggle. Does your van have a conversion or is is still seats in the back?

Not sure why mine suddenly decided to go - it hasn't been used much over the winter but I have taken it out since the really cold weather with no problems. As with Dunslairs, mine is a relatively new van. I wasn't going to change the stat but having re read through the posts I think I am wise to do so. Especially given the lead up to the matrix going. Prior to this my temp always sat at 11 o'clock and never moved. Yesterday I noticed it creeping past 1 o'clock which is when I pulled over. This has never happened since I have had the bongo. At this point in time the coolant level was still close to the full mark. Now I'm not very technically or mechanically minded but am I right in assuming that this would cause a build up of pressure that would cause the matrix to go? When we set off very gingerly back home the temp started to rise again so we pulled over again, but then it settled at 11oclock again where it stayed until we got home and by this point you could still just see coolant in the expansion tank. So to my mind this sounds a bit like a sticky stat - does it to you more expert peeps?

Anyways to be on the safe side that stat is getting changed - once I research it so I know how to do it

Are mazda dealers likely so stock it? I was hoping to get it done today.

Thanks again everyone

Hi David
Yup...we get cold, usually....around minus 25 C ....BBBBrrrr

You have PM

Cheers
Helen

Hi Froggy
It's around 11.10 your time...give me about 15- 20 minutes, and the piccies will be up!
Cheers
Helen

ian at the shop has gen stats. or others. and mazda can have them next day if they dont have one in.
yes to the pressure increase, if your temps go up. it could be for various reasons though,including the stat. but as the system is down you may as well change it.
look at the bleeding a bongo videos on youtube by b*witched blingo,they will show you one way to bleed it correctly.

Hi Froggy
Pictures , as promised...


First picture rubber hose attached on passenger side (Blue hose is attached to the disconnected metal cross-pipe, still)



second picture is the other end, showing it curving out of view across the car



Third view showing the pipe disappear across to the passenger side. I just fed it behind a bracket in the middle of the bongo, and it can be clipped off to the metal pipes if you wish. The hose I used is 20 bar rated, but 3 will be more than adequate. It MUST be a hot-water piping.

Are the pictures making it clearer?
Cheers
Helen

Dunslair,
from your description it sounds like replacing the unit is likely to be a real pain in the a**. If it entails taking an inner panel off I'm really going to struggle. Does your van have a conversion or is is still seats in the back?

Ours does not have a side conversion..... fortunately. I am not sure how many of the converters give any thought to how you could access the rear heater matrix if required. Best of luck for a speedy fix which ever way you decide to go.

All the best

David.

Hmm, based on your response then Dunslair I think we are heading for a permanent bypass then - not a huge problem as we don't carry passengers and in winter I often hook up the mains and run an oil filled heater for a while to keep away the damp.

Helen,

Cheers for the pics. I think I get what you have done. Is the blue hose in the first pic the one that was originally hooked up to where the black one now is? If so the one that is connected on mine is a very short black hose that then connects to another metal pipe. Does that sound right? So what you've done is bypassed the whole of the pipework running around the rear for the heater matrix?

I'm a little nervous about disconnecting the whole lot and am going to struggle to get to the thermostat so what I may do is put in the short pipe bypass connecting the 2 rear matrix hoses, bleed the system then take it to our friends garage where he'll let us use the ramp to assist with the full bypass and thermostat change. Think I'd feel a bit more confident then with him there to advise as well.

Thanks again

Hi Froggy
Right first time...the blue hose is as you say, connected to the metal pipe which runs across the car...I simply disconnected it, put my new hose on the side rail as shown, fed it underneath, behind a supporting bracket where the other metal pipes run, and clipped it on the other side as shown. The result:- 1 pipe, 2 clips, and not lots of pipes and clips. With a look under the Bongo, you'll see it is a stupendously simple job, and can be done without ramps...and me being a fat B****R and rather arthritic!...20 minute job, max...including dithering (not including draining and bleeding).....also allow at least a couple of swear words, for an eyeful of coolant whilst draining....I can supply a very reasonable list of such words in order of obscenity , should you require
Cheers
Helen

Hi Helen

Thanks, that's reassured me somewhat. I'm doing the temp short copper pipe bypass to start off with, just to get me mobile again but then once I get some appropriate hosing and the undertray off I shall have a look at your way which now makes a great deal more sense.

No coolant in the eye for me! I am being a good girl and wearing my protective goggles - normally I wouldn't bother with such health and safety shenanigans but since I have recently had my eyes lasered I have suddenly become much more aware of such things until my eyes are fully healed.

The swear words are there tho, good job next doors kids are inside

Thanks again

Many thanks to everyone for their help.

A quick update. I have done a temp bypass using a piece of copper piping between the two hoses going to the rear heater matrix. It's not particularly pretty but it's got us mobile again.

I have done a flush of the system as best I can and refilled and bled as per youtube vids - only snag was when the funnel came off the bleed pipe and hot water went everywhere!! Yikes! Finally managed to get it done.

Haven't got new thermostat yet. We're off to our friends garage where there's better working conditions and where we'll tidy up the bypass and put in new thermostat (probably from underneath).

I'm off to start a new thread now on the thermostat as I can't figure out which bits I need to undo to get at the damn thing.

Anyway, once again, thanks to everyone for their help. The forum is indeed a wonderful knowledge base.