Bongo Fury

Indeed Mike, if that had gone on tour we'd have been knackered, no icecream salesman is going to sort that or know how to bleed it.

It's only about £25.00 for a genuine Mazda one and nowhere near the job the other one is so not too bad a prospect. But the corrosion is taking place in the same area as your other t-piece pipe and where you can't see it, so logic would suggest this pipe isn't far behind if you've had to have the other one replaced.

Muzorewa wrote:Indeed Mike, if that had gone on tour we'd have been knackered, no icecream salesman is going to sort that or know how to bleed it.

It's only about £25.00 for a genuine Mazda one and nowhere near the job the other one is so not too bad a prospect. But the corrosion is taking place in the same area as your other t-piece pipe and where you can't see it, so logic would suggest this pipe isn't far behind if you've had to have the other one replaced.

Advice noted Muz and thanks

Just a few years on, prices have risen a bit eh? I'm very pleased to see the copper reducer job, had thought of doing something similar but was unsure that solder would hold out under the heat.
Has anyone used microbore to replicate the gearbox pipe?

Off topic, but we've hit 10,000 views to the thread

Who'd have thought coolant pipes could be so interesting.

All those views are what it's all about for me, one person does something and we all learn.
What a great club this is.

Distilled Waters Run Deep wrote: Thu Jul 04, 2019 10:18 pm Just a few years on, prices have risen a bit eh? I'm very pleased to see the copper reducer job, had thought of doing something similar but was unsure that solder would hold out under the heat.
Has anyone used microbore to replicate the gearbox pipe?

I'm being lazy with the gearbox pipe, light wire brush and some smoothrite and crossed fingers.

Back to the Yorkshire fittings, are they strong enough or would some 15mm pipe in the reducers be a better bet ... or would that restrict the flow too much?