Bongo Fury

BongoBongo123 wrote:A little weathering and maybe some waxing will probably have it reasonable? Not sure though, not impressed. I would steer clear of spray "kits" the end result will be highly dependent on quality of lacquer.

Fact is there has to be a difference between a £4.00 and £18.00 can of lacquer. My wife being an artist can spend £85.00 on 1 small tube of paint so it would make a lot of sense.

Also found this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clear-Lacquer-A ... B00BFDEOTY

I think if you use cheap lacquer you get a bad finish. It makes no sense to use cheap lacquer as the final coat. I will get this good stuff and redo the top layer of the bonnet when I sort the bit above the windscreen. Will report back on the quality.

That lacquer was hopeless, at best a rough - coarse - matt protective layer of acrylic (that gives a white sheen from an angle). What is the point of doing all those layers and prep to end up with a truly rubbish lacquering ?

Learn from my error here !

Lesson learnt for myself now never ever buy cheap lacquer for a self spray.

Why not PM Stuc for his thoughts. It may well be that a can of 2 pack lacquer can be sprayed over the existing lacquer to wetten it up and give higher gloss - it all depends on wetting characterisitics of 2 pack. Alternative is working it with v fine wet and dry and or suitable fine abrasive polish, but I doubt you have sufficient lacquer thickness for that. Whatever you do, don't panic, and don't wax it until you'e got Stuc's thoughts.

At least 3 layers of lacquer and it has done the protective part of the job, water beads and runs but it is like a wet and dry sandpaper level of smoothness lol. And distinctively matt not gloss.

Other than the cr*p lacquer surface this is really nice job. Good match and from dead straight on indistinguishable from the original paint work.

Will PM him.

BongoBongo123 wrote:At least 3 layers of lacquer and it has done the protective part of the job, water beads and runs but it is like a wet and dry sandpaper level of smoothness lol. And distinctively matt not gloss.

Other than the cr*p lacquer surface this is really nice job. Good match and from dead straight on indistinguishable from the original paint work.

Will PM him.

With 3 coats you may be able to v fine wet and dry to get it looking better, but wait and see what Stuc advises

mikeonb4c wrote:

BongoBongo123 wrote:At least 3 layers of lacquer and it has done the protective part of the job, water beads and runs but it is like a wet and dry sandpaper level of smoothness lol. And distinctively matt not gloss.

Other than the cr*p lacquer surface this is really nice job. Good match and from dead straight on indistinguishable from the original paint work.

Will PM him.

With 3 coats you may be able to v fine wet and dry to get it looking better, but wait and see what Stuc advises

Appreciate the tip but for some reason I cannot reconcile sandpaper and a glossy finish.

It must be so fine that tissue paper would be as good ?

I doubt I will ever sand it. Right now I am thinking cough up the notes for quality lacquer clean it down properly and go directly on the top. Or just wait and wax in 1 week. In any event I won;t wax for 1 week minimum.

Managed to find this lacquer for £7.50 cheaper so gone for that:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161468987072

I have used Pro XL products and they are very good. It's confusing me a bit as 2K(2 component) products require a hardener mixed with them to cause the chemical reaction to form the film, which I don't know how they do in aerosol form. However if you flat your current finish with P1500 wet or dry to get a nice smooth finish, without sanding through anywhere, you will be able to apply some more laquer over the top. Start off quite lightly as the paint in aerosol contains a lot of solvent and too wet a finish will react with your previous laquer and give you a finish looking like a crocodile skin handbag which is not a good look on your bongo.

Alternatively you can flat your existing finish with P1500 and before painting again attempt to polish it up. If it doesn't work you were going to paint it anyway. Use a good quality polishing compound like 3M Fastcut or Farecla G3. Followed by a finishing polish and wax.
Do not wax the car till you are happy! As if you decide to paint it again the wax will cause major problems on your finish.

When applying your laquer make sure you get several coats on to give you enough to polish.

A few tips:
Watch the paint going on to the panel, use the reflections to see what it looks like. If it looks rubbish, it probably will be rubbish. You know what good paintwork looks like so that is what you are aiming for.
Feel the surface, if you can feel something you will see it in the final finish.
Look at the surface prior to painting, the same applies if you can see marks or scratches, they won't disappear they will affect the final finish.
Make sure everything is clean, try and use a solvent panel wipe to degrease it and a tack cloth is handy for just before you apply the paint.

I hope I have covered some of the points for you..
Stu

Fab advice Stuc. There you go bb123, the best advice in town.

2 pack in cans puzzles me too, but my mate Pete has used it and says it works. I think it's a one session product though - no idea how the 2 parts get brought together in the can, or if it wets better. Pete used v fine wet and dry on the lacquer and got a great finish (on a motorcycle petrol tank) and of course I think 2 pack is probably a harder surface better suited to wet and dry finishing, though that's just my guess.

2K products are usually better, as when they are cured the molecules are locked together to form a closer interlocked film which is harder and more durable, depending on quality. More expensive products usually resist UV light better, don't fade or flake off especially if they are used with the complete system recommended by the manufacturer. When I was painting I would of been happy to give a lifetime warranty on any paintwork I did as I used complete system from start to finish.
If you applied 2 coats of a decent 2K laquer, once cured you could polish it all day long.
The products we are using now are HS(high solid products)which give even better interlocking molecules but by applying less product so they are compliant products which are better for the environment due to less emissions. Sprayguns are also better now as they are more efficient by getting more material on to the job causing less overspray and lower material usage.
1K products are never completely cured. If you wipe over them with any kind of solvent they will soften and damage.

Hi Stuc
I've often wondered what they use in a supposedly 2K aerosol...I've actually bought some before from a paint factor I'd used for years...an extremely good firmand they said it was pretty good ....The only thing I thought was that the 2 components were added , but one was a modified component that needed contact with air to complete the reaction with the 2 components....Is that feasible?....Anyway, whatever the outcome, it was a good laquer
Regarding the interaction producing a crocodile skin finish on paint, it was actually available as a paint in the '60s....I've been looking for some recently to spray, but I can't find it anywhere...It was available in a few shades, and looked very realistic!...The brand name was Krac-a-lak, but that's used on all manner of things now. I'd REALLY like to find some.
Cheers
Helen

Good info..many thanks got the 2K product on it's way. A little foolish to think cheap lacquer would be good lacquer it is the top surface you see. I will clean and degrease, then use the extremely fine wire wool (same I used to get a smooth as silk finish on the primer) just to rub gently over and give the new high quality lacquer something to bond to and spray extremely light coats.

You do not get much for £17.50 200ml but I won't need that much hopefully as it has had 3 coats of the other stuff. 3 more thin/light layers should hopefully be ok.

Once again I will pick a day with very little wind.

As I say very pleased with how it all blends in just a bad lacquer on top cheapens the end result.

I wouldn't use wire wool - use v fine wet and dry as Stuc advises. I'd never heard of wire wool being used until you mentioned it - sounds an odd technique to me, perhaps dating back to older paints and cars?

What you need to key the laquer is fine grey scotchbrite, which is what we would use to lightly key the surface and all the edges.
Like this, type in grey scotchbrite in ebay search there are loads at varying prices.
Red is coarser than the grey and can be used to key original paint if it has no damage and you are using solid colours.
Grey can be used to key metallic paintwork and used lightly on blend in areas.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCUFF-PADS-LI ... 1c3340e07f

Helen, I'm sure i've seen that stuff still for sale, i'll have a look and let you know. It would be ok to paint a pair of shoes but not sure about a Bongo lol!

mikeonb4c wrote:I wouldn't use wire wool - use v fine wet and dry as Stuc advises. I'd never heard of wire wool being used until you mentioned it - sounds an odd technique to me, perhaps dating back to older paints and cars?

My apologies, I'd misunderstood what you were using it for, now read stuc's post

Hi
Stuc
I can't remember what I wanted it for, now, but I'll remember....I sure would like to find it , though!...I've been to a lot of the usual custom paint suppliers....Thanks in anticipation!
Cheers
Helen