Bongo Fury

mikeonb4c wrote:I wouldn't use wire wool - use v fine wet and dry as Stuc advises. I'd never heard of wire wool being used until you mentioned it - sounds an odd technique to me, perhaps dating back to older paints and cars?

Sure, I am not entirely sure where I got the wire wool thing from I used this, it is as soft as cotton wool to the touch, so thin and light it holds heat like cotton wool as well.:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Top-Quali ... 4854162e18

It made the primer as smooth as I could imagine a primered surface could ever be. I assume it would be ok on the lacquer. For the sake of £2.50 I will get the scotchbrite if deemed necessary.

I personally wouldn't use a wire wool product. It may feel fine but it will be very scratchy. Saying that, if it has worked for you and the result is good, why not.
Stu

Never used it to re-key lacquer though so grey Scotchbrite it is ! Thanks again.

A bit of insight on this mixing process. The spray can is not like a normal one and has an activator on the bottom which needs to be pulled and twisted before use. I expect this releases the second compound required to harden the lacquer.

It does make me wonder if it is a single use product though it does say after use invert can and clear valave so maybe it is possible to use it again? Not sure on that one.

Just awaiting the scotchbrite and I can have a go.

BongoBongo123 wrote:A bit of insight on this mixing process. The spray can is not like a normal one and has an activator on the bottom which needs to be pulled and twisted before use. I expect this releases the second compound required to harden the lacquer.

It does make me wonder if it is a single use product though it does say after use invert can and clear valave so maybe it is possible to use it again? Not sure on that one.

Just awaiting the scotchbrite and I can have a go.

Good luck, hope weather obliges, keep us posted.

Also thanks again for the heads up on the "3M Fast Cut". I will have spent over £100.00 (partly in error on my behalf) after this but at least I should in theory be able to take care of other issues as and when they surface without further expenditure. Top advice Stuc thanks.

Now I am wondering whether to Fast Cut the existing layer or key it with the scotchbrite and redo. I am certainly NOT happy with the uniformity of the existing layers of lacquer and I think I would be polishing "Fast Cut" in for weeks to get that down and be left with a weak lacquering product so suspect a rekey with the scotchbrite and get the quality lacquer on is the better plan.

I think it might take a while low wind today but rain expected then windier days. No rush it is protected as is so will pick a good day.

Will do Mike cheers !

I will say front on the lacqer that is there looks fine, really ok. From the side it looks matt/opaque as if there is a layer of dust on the bonnet. I will do a photo and post this up in a few minutes.

Uploading and will edit this post......

before

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f24/b ... fazlyj.jpg

Much better now even before any waxing:

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f24/b ... kpi55e.jpg

Looks ok from front on:

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f24/b ... ibz3w2.jpg

Opaque and uneven layers/slightly mottled effect from side

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f24/b ... hxlbzm.jpg

[quote="BongoBongo123"]Will do Mike cheers !

I will say front on the lacqer that is there looks fine, really ok. From the side it looks matt/opaque as if there is a layer of dust on the bonnet. I will do a photo and post this up in a few minutes.[/quote]


Can't really advise except to say a rough idea of what finish might look like with new lacquer on might be got by wetting the existing surface and seeing if it starts to look clear and glossy. The trouble we have as amateurs is that car painting is a skilled trade, and we're attempting to master it without an instructor, using our own cars as testbeds. It's always going to be risky and yes, your expenditure is reaching towards what it might have cost to have the job done. But travel in hope, and anyway it's interesting to try and master it. Just hope the 2 pack performs better than the standard lacquer.

Although air may be required to accelerate curing of 2 pack, it's hard to believe it won't go off in the can once mixed. But with a decent area like the bonnet to do, I reckon cost is worth it regardless. But it's the reason I've not bought any for touch up jobs. Probably better to get a badger airbrush and use tinned alternative, but what a faff!

Testing to see if images fit on screen:

Before:



After, no polishing as yet...

If I left it as is I would be more than satisfied (just compare to what it did look like) if I had used the quality lacquer from the get go. I have not even waxed it yet. You are right it is a learning curve because I did not expect to get a pro result I am impressed i managed what I have. I am hopeful given a low wind day that I can improve it with gentle and careful approach to a re-key and a couple of layers of the quality lacquer. As you say the bonnet is worth a can of expensive paint and some proper waxing.

I would guess give it 1 year of UV penetration/winter salt etc and it will be invisible to the eye.

If this was a brand new LaFerrari then I might think twice, lol, but being a 20 year Bongo (fantastic though she is throughout and mechanically) I think I am quids in and ready for the top part above of the screen as well.

Looks pretty good to me. Mine is going like yours and I'd love to diy it, but until I retire I just struggle to get time, especially given difficulty of forecasting weather.

mikeonb4c wrote:Looks pretty good to me. Mine is going like yours and I'd love to diy it, but until I retire I just struggle to get time, especially given difficulty of forecasting weather.

Thanks Mike.. not quite so nice from side angle. It is protected and you cannot see it unless looking which is the main thing. Just need to do a nice gentle re-key and spray a couple of good layers on and with a bit of luck it will work out. Self employed here so I have some flexibility of hours and can jump to it when the day is good and work into the evening.

Doesn't look too bad, the bonnet is probably the hardest bit to do as well as the light hits it straight on and you see everything. I've been painting 27 years and I still don't get it right everytime, especially outside in difficult conditions.

stuc wrote:Doesn't look too bad, the bonnet is probably the hardest bit to do as well as the light hits it straight on and you see everything. I've been painting 27 years and I still don't get it right everytime, especially outside in difficult conditions.

I will take that as a compliment. So when I get the scotch brite I do a very gentle wipe over to prep the surface for the good stuff Just enough to abrade the surface or dig in a bit more ?

One slight concern is the quality stuff says "30-60 mins" to dry. That is quite an insect landing window. Hopefully the top surface tack dries fairly quick. Might have to stand vigil for a few minutes initially and waft if I see anything.

Edit: In fact I think I will leave this as it is and get some of that Farecla G3 (cheaper) and just whizz round the edges slightly (the mottling is a little overspray of lacquer I think) and then wax up. It looks fine to me and I think there is a risk to make things worse than it is with a re-key and spray. I now have the quality lacquering product for the future should I wish to have another go in 2-3 years if I find the job did not hold up.

I am satisifed as is and so will do the final waxing after just blending the edges a little with some of that polish.