Bongo Fury

...If you are (like we were) a bit nervous about the process of fitting a Mason Alarm- honestly it is an easy job- and we hate vehicle electrics with a vengeance. Almost got the guts up to fit the LCA now!

Very easy - good instructions with it - half an hour with ease.

Good to hear, mine arrived in the post today so hoping to get the chance to fit it later this week.

Just out of interest, the adjustment knob on mine was set to 4, is the setting individual per bongo or do most end up being on a similar setting?

On the ECU computer (mine is a V6 petrol so may run at different temp) the coolant normally stays at 86-87 degrees C but that is when in garage idling, can't take it with you as hooked up to laptop owned by LPG specialist.

it really goes on a lot of things, how you drive weather, and mainly location........

basically if you know your bongo runs ok, ie not hot ect, set it low and then just go for a drive locally and as the alarm goes off during normal driving, move it .5 at a time untill the mason alarm stops beeping whilst your driving a routine journey, especially up a couple of hard uphill hills and motorways.

from what ive learned and from what ive gathered from other mason alarm owners is that the average is set at 4.5, this is what mines set at and has gone off a couple of times whilst driving in scotish hills and the lake district ect, its doesnt go off as an alarm but the odd blip every now and then as its working hard on the hills, this is ideal as it tells me that the engine is hot but not too hot as to overheat and tells me just to keep an eye on temp gauge

Hope this helps,
cheers Wayne

Thanks for the info, I'll try and get it installed this week and let you know how I get on.

Mine should arrive soon as I ordered one yesterday, so keep us up to date with your fitting experience and set up etc.

Don't tell anyone, but I haven't got a low coolant alarm either.

Hi,

Just fitted mine. As others have said it is really very simple. All you need is a crosshead screwdriver, lower the steering wheel to it's lowest position, disconnect the battery, then remove the 4 upward facing screws that hold the cover to the instrument binnacle on.

You need to carefully pull and prise this out. On mine I have a couple of extra switches, as well as the fog light. The cables for these were tight. On one side there was no easy way of disconnecting the switches so I took off the wiring to the fog light etc on the RHS. As mine was a retrofit I had to remove 3 wires from this, remember to label them if there is any danger of mixing them up when reconnecting.

I then swung the cover around over the gearstick. You will then see the instrument cluster being held in by 4 horizontal facing cross head screws. Remove these.

Then pull forward the binacle, I had enough slack in the wires to pull it out and twist is round to gain access to the rear RHS of it where you need to wire in the 3 wires to the mason alarm as per the instructions. Be careful not to remove the screws too much or short circuit any of the copper connectors with the mason connectors. Don't overtighten either.

Then reconnect the battery, turn on the ignition, you will hear a chirp, that's it. Put the mason alarm back in to the dash, and thread it and it's wiring back and down so when you put the binacle back in no wires will be trapped.

There's enough slack in the alarm wiring to route it down, then up the side of the dash leaving it resting on top so it can be adjusted until it's right.

I have a several journeys over the next few days to get this adjusted.

Keep you posted but impressions are good, well made, good price, arrives quickly and easy to install.

Andy

Its scary untill you get used to the temp needle moving up and down thoe, takes a while to get used to especially at the begining when the alarm beeps untill it gets set at normal driving posisition.

Ordered mine yesterday, delivered today.......VERY IMPRESSIVE SERVICE!

Fitting took about ten minutes all in. I sited mine in the foot well near my left knee (for now). Amazed, and a little shocked, at how high it now reads - easily 1 o'clock, if not, half past!

Now, just remind me why I need a coolant alarm again?

Majorbloodnock wrote: Amazed, and a little shocked, at how high it now reads - easily 1 o'clock, if not, half past!

Can you now explain that to all the folk on here who say "it can't have overheated because the gauge didn't go above 11 o'clock"

scanner wrote:

Majorbloodnock wrote: Amazed, and a little shocked, at how high it now reads - easily 1 o'clock, if not, half past!

Can you now explain that to all the folk on here who say "it can't have overheated because the gauge didn't go above 11 o'clock"

Incredible! The existing gauge without it is irrelevant. I feel that it is so close to the red now, that the alarm is essential just because a boil-up could go unnoticed, due to the already high running temp - and I am a person that generally drives with one eye on the gauges anyway! peace of mind.

Am thinking about getting one of these but wondered would I also need to get a coolant level alarm (or are the 2 essentially doing the same thing)?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Truant wrote:Am thinking about getting one of these but wondered would I also need to get a coolant level alarm (or are the 2 essentially doing the same thing)?

Any advice would be appreciated!

They are totally different. The Mason just allows to to see how the coolant temp varies with driving conditions (plus has an adjustable threshold alarm. The Low coolant alarm involves placing a sensor in the header tank that will trigger an alarm if the level drops, as might happen when you have a leak. I'd put the LCA at the top of the 'must have' list, with the Mason alarm being valuable if you have any concerns that your cooling system might not be doing its job properly (arguably a less common problem but plenty of occurrences reported on here nonetheles)

Majorbloodnock wrote:

scanner wrote:

Majorbloodnock wrote: Amazed, and a little shocked, at how high it now reads - easily 1 o'clock, if not, half past!

Can you now explain that to all the folk on here who say "it can't have overheated because the gauge didn't go above 11 o'clock"

Incredible! The existing gauge without it is irrelevant. I feel that it is so close to the red now, that the alarm is essential just because a boil-up could go unnoticed, due to the already high running temp - and I am a person that generally drives with one eye on the gauges anyway! peace of mind.

Maybe it is running too hot at 1.30 Major............ When was the coolant last flushed out and the radiator checked for cold spots?

dandywarhol wrote: Maybe it is running too hot at 1.30 Major............ When was the coolant last flushed out and the radiator checked for cold spots?

Mine normally runs at about 1 o'clock as well but I've no idea when the coolant was last changed - it's on the list along with the hoses.......................