Team Muz Highlands & Islands Tour 2009
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:25 pm
Last year we went to five 24-hour sportscar races, at the Nürburgring, Le Mans, Spa-Francorchamps, Zolder and Silverstone. This year we decided to take things a little more steady and embarked on a three-week tour of the Scottish Highlands & Islands. This has been at the planning stage for months, with places being added to the itinerary all the time, even up to less than a week before the ‘off’, I’m sure I’m on Caledonian MacBrayne’s speed-dial due to the number of times I’ve amended the ferry bookings
There are some fascinating historical sites going way back between 2,000 and 3,000BC, and plenty for the kids as well, plus the Outer Hebrides was where I took Mrs Muz on our honeymoon
We saw a total of 58 other Bongos on our travels, we received some enthusiastic waves from some and some blank looks from others – if any of you are reading this – “Hello!”
We spent 20 days and 19 nights á la Bongo, and gradually became immersed in the wild-camping life. Our cost for the campsites etc turned out to be this:
Week 1 £4.61 per night per person
Week 2 £1.03 per night per person
Week 3 Nil
The Bongo proved to be the ideal assault vehicle yet again, just big enough for our needs as a family yet small enough to get onto the ferries as a standard car, and with the 4WD, onto some excellent camping spots. 2,300 miles and no issues at all.
As you might expect, we took photos – lots of them
Gretna Green Old Blacksmith’s Shop, scene of many a marriage since 1753.
Falkirk Wheel – the only rotating boat-lift of its kind in the world, which lifts boats 24 metres from the Forth & Clyde canal to the Union canal.
Falkirk Wheel from above
Antonine Wall – the most northern point of the Roman Empire. Only half as long as Hadrian’s Wall and not so visibly impressive....
....but this was as far north as the Romans got Looks more like a ditch to me but hey ho
Actually they did get further than this, there are archaeological sites at Braco, Clathy and Kirkton (all in Perth & Kinross) but for whatever reason the Romans retreated to the Antonine Wall and called anything north of this line Caledonia
Antonine wall defensive pits (lilia) which would have contained sharpened stakes and been concealed by brushwood.
Stirling castle – like Edinburgh castle but without the tourists.
Fortingall parish church, dedicated to Coeddi, Bishop of Iona
Fortingall yew, at between 3,000 and 9,000 years old the oldest living thing in Europe which came as something of a surprise to me, I had always presumed that honour went to the mother-in-law
Castle Menzies near Aberfeldy
Scottish traffic jam
Pitlochry fish-ladder, a 310-metre salmon ladder where diadromous fish can be viewed swimming from weir to weir within the ladder
End of day 1
Blairgowrie campsite but notice the lack of wind & rain
Meikleour Beech Hedge near Blairgowrie has been in the Guinness Book of Records as the ‘World’s largest/tallest Hedge’ since 1966. It stands some 120 feet tall at its highest point and runs for 580 yards in length. The hedge is cut every ten years taking 4 men approximately 6 weeks. It was planted in the autumn of 1745
Glamis castle gates
Glamis castle, Angus
Arbroath Abbey
Auchmithie, original home of the Arbroath Smokie
Lunan Bay, between Arbroath and Montrose
Dunnottar castle, Aberdeenshire
Drum castle, Aberdeenshire
Balmoral castle war memorial
Balmoral castle, Royal Deeside
Balmoral castle
River Dee at Easter Balmoral – Muzette in quiet reflection
After a hard day on the road
Ballater Caravan Park
Sitting pretty and ready for Day 3
Corgarff castle, Strathdon
Castle Roy, Nethybridge.
Castle Roy, Nethybridge
Castle Roy, Nethybridge
Why does she always acquire a dog wherever she goes?
Loch an Eilean castle, Rothiemurchus
Practicing that Dambusters dance for the Germans on Rannoch Moor
Carrbridge – home of the World Porridge-Making Championships where first prize is a golden spurtle. The old packhorse bridge across the river Dulnain was built in 1717 and is looking a little frail.
Inverness castle, Highland
Glen Urquhart castle, Drumnadrochit
Aha – so Nessie IS for real!
Urquhart castle, Highland
Loch Ness cruise on the Nessie Hunter
Would we get to see the wee beastie?
Scottish weather
Muz Jr in an intelligent moment
Another intelligent moment
Cherry Island, the only island on Loch Ness after they raised the level for the Caledonian canal. During the 15th century there was a castle on the island.
Caledonian canal locks – The 62 mile Caledonian canal links the east coast at Inverness with the west coast at Corpach near Fort William, and flows through Loch Dochfour, Loch Ness, Loch Oich and Loch Lochy.
Caledonian canal locks, Fort Augustus
Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the British Isles at over 4,400ft above sea level, and I had always been told that “the Big Ben” was in SW1A
Neptune’s Staircase, the longest staircase lock in the UK comprising eight locks and lifting boats 64 feet.
Inverlochy castle, Highland
Inverlochy castle
Castle Stalker, Argyll
Oban Caravan & Camping Park
Lunch on the run
Oban & McCaig's Tower to the top left
Dunolly castle, Oban
Caledonian MacBrayne. We’ll be keeping them busy for the next couple of weeks
Clansman Oban to Barra via Coll & Tiree
Duart castle, Isle of Mull
Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly point on the mainland
Arinagour, Isle of Coll
Arinagour, Isle of Coll
Breachacha castle, Isle of Coll
Scarinish, Isle of Tiree
Isle of Barra lifeboat
Catalina JX273 memorial, on 12th May 1944 a Consolidated Catalina had a faulty compass and before they could climb to a safe height they crashed into Heishival Beag on Vatersay. Three of the nine crew were killed instantly the other six survived.
The engines and large parts were removed at the time by the RAF but the rest was left there and remains today.
Catalina JX273 crash site, Isle of Vatersay
Annie Jane memorial. Launched in 1853, the first & last voyage of this ship claimed 350 of the 450 lives on board as she got caught in a gale, lost one of her masts and drifted onto rocks.
Isle of Vatersay
Isle of Vatersay
Isle of Vatersay
Isle of Vatersay
MacLeod’s tower, Isle of Barra
A888, Isle of Barra. There’s only one classified road on Barra, from Castlebay to, erm, Castlebay
Eoligarry, Isle of Barra
Eoligarry, Isle of Barra
Eoligarry, Isle of Barra
Eoligarry, Isle of Barra
Eoligarry, Isle of Barra
Eoligarry, Isle of Barra
Eoligarry, Isle of Barra – Does wild-camping get any better than this?
Muzette enjoying the sea & sun
Barra airport
Barra airport
Barra airport, LoganAir de Havilland Twin Otter
Barra airport, LoganAir de Havilland Twin Otter
Bata Fada Beag Kisimul castle ferry
Kisimul castle, Isle of Barra, home of the Clan MacNeil
Inside Kisimul castle
Castlebay, Isle of Barra, from within Kisimul castle
Inside Kisimul castle, Isle of Barra
Otter spotting, isle of Berneray
Loch Alainn Barra to Eriskay
After the SS Politician was wrecked in 1941 with 264,000 bottles of malt whisky on board (prompting the Compton MacKenzie book “Whisky Galore” and the film “Whisky Galore!”), Eriskay did eventually get its own ‘legal’ pub....
....“Am Politician”
Ormacleit castle, Isle of South Uist
Our Lady of the Isles statue, Isle of South Uist
Rocket Range, South Uist was built in 1957-58 to launch the Corporal missile, Britain and America's first guided nuclear weapon, the front line of Cold War defence. The Corporal missile was tested from 1959 to 1963. The range is still owned by the MoD as a testing facility for missile systems such as the surface-to-air Rapier missile and Unmanned Air Vehicles.
Borve castle, Isle of Benbecula
Flodda Island, population 11
Hebridean Smokehouse, Isle of North Uist, where we got some rather excellent smoked scallops....
....and smoked salmon. Excellent for a light lunch
Isle of North Uist I did have to explain the concept of shillings to the kids
Pobull Fhinn stone circle, Isle of North Uist
Pobul Fhinn stone circle, Isle of North Uist
Peat - Isle of North Uist. From a distance we thought that this was a dodgy campsite or a tip
Langass burial chamber, Isle of North Uist
Langass burial chamber, Isle of North Uist
Langass burial chamber, Isle of North Uist
Langass burial chamber, Isle of North Uist
Scolpaig tower, Isle of North Uist
Quiet contemplation, Isle of Berneray
Was the sea warm or cold?
Ah, may be a tad cold then
Chase me
That anti-gravity device seems to work well
Isle of Berneray Travel Inn
Seals, Isle of Berneray
Loch Portain, Berneray to Leverburgh
Another acquisition, Isle of Harris
Hushinish beach wild-camping, Isle of Harris
Candles – anti-midge devices
Hushinish beach – how cool is this place?
August, and the beach is rammed with tourists as usual. Hushinish beach, Isle of Harris
Well, with sheep anyway Hushinish beach, Isle of Harris
Amhuinnsuidhe castle, Isle of Harris
Abhainn Mhòr, Isle of Harris
Uig Chessmen, Isle of Lewis
High winds forecast Uig sands, Isle of Lewis
Uig sands wild-camping
Uig sands, Isle of Lewis
Crowded camping areas, can’t be doing with it Uig sands, Isle of Lewis
Get down Shep!
Traffic jam, Isle of Lewis
Bosta, Isle of Great Bernera
Bosta, Isle of Great Bernera
Bosta, Isle of Great Bernera
Iron-Age village, Isle of Great Bernera
Callanish VIII standing stones, Isle of Great Bernera
Peat, Isle of Lewis
Callanish IV standing stones, Isle of Lewis
Callanish III standing stones, Isle of Lewis
Callanish II standing stones, Isle of Lewis
Callanish 1 standing stones, Isle of Lewis
Callanish I standing stones, Isle of Lewis
Dun Carloway broch, Isle of Lewis
Gearrannan Black House Village, Isle of Lewis
Gearrannan Black House Village, Isle of Lewis
Whalebone arch (Bragar), Isle of Lewis
Lews castle, Isle of Lewis
Horgabost beach campsite, Isle of Harris
Hebrides, Tarbert to Uig
Special delivery of 904 gas bottles for Bongos
Museum of island life, Isle of Skye
Duntulm castle, Isle of Skye
Dunvegan castle, Isle of Skye
Dunvegan castle, Isle of Skye
Kinloch campsite, Isle of Skye
Kinloch campsite, Isle of Skye
Glorious sunset, Kinloch campsite, Isle of Skye
The Isle of Skye Highland Games, Portree
The Isle of Skye Highland Games
Hammer throwing, Isle of Skye Highland Games
”56lb weight over bar”, Isle of Skye Highland Games
Putting the stone, Isle of Skye Highland Games. Mrs Muz was disappointed that this competitor wore Lycra shorts under his kilt
A disconsolate Muzette having lost her Tug-of-War heat, Isle of Skye Highland Games
Glenachulish, Kyle Rhea to Glenelg which then sends you over the magnificent Mam Ratagan Pass to Shiel Bridge
To quote the Undiscovered Scotland website, “Every visitor to Skye should consider going by ferry. After all, although the Skye Bridge is a wonderful structure, crossing it only takes you to Skye. To get to the Isle of Skye, you need to travel by sea. The two Skyes are equally wonderful, but somehow the Isle of Skye feels just that little bit more special.”
Eilean Donan castle, Highland
Heland coos
Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), Applecross
Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), Applecross
Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), Applecross
Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle), Applecross
Applecross Inn, Applecross
Applecross Inn, Applecross
Applecross wild-camping
Heron, Applecross
Applecross – on the beach in pyjamas
Deer, Applecross
Beachcomber Cottage, home of “Monty Halls’ Great Escape”
Caisteal Maol, Isle of Skye
Knock castle, Isle of Skye
Dunscaith castle, Isle of Skye
Armadale castle, Isle of Skye
Coruisk, Armadale to Mallaig
Loch Nan Ceall wild-camping
Loch Nan Ceall wildlife spotting
Loch Nan Ceall
Loch Nan Ceall
Loch Nan Ceall
Loch Nan Ceall
Knoydart refuse collection service
Western Isles, Mallaig to Inverie, Knoydart
Porpoise spotting, Loch Nevis, Knoydart
Loch Nevis, Knoydart
Our Lady of Loch Nevis, Knoydart
The Old Forge, Knoydart, the most remote pub in Britain
Seafood platter, The Old Forge
At The Old Forge, Knoydart
Loch Nevis
Seals, Loch Nevis
Castle Tioram on the tidal island Eilean Tioram in Loch Moidart, Highland
Loch Moidart sunset
Castle Tioram wild-camping
The lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point, the most westerly point of mainland Britain. You get a good view from the top
Ardnamurchan
Mingary castle, Highland
Loch Linnhe, Kilchoan to Tobermory
Tobermory, Isle of Mull. What’s the story in Balamory today?
Isle of Mull airport
Wild-camping
Wild-camp between Ensay & Burg, Isle of Mull
The Jrs cooking, oh no, what are they going to conjure up?
Ah, bockwürsts & rice
Mint sauce! Mint sauce!
Traffic jam, Isle of Mull
Glengorm castle, Isle of Mull
Aros castle, Isle of Mull
Split-second timing on the Ulva ferry
The Ulva ferry
Isle of Ulva
The Boathouse, Isle of Ulva
Scallops
Smoked mackerel & oatcakes
Isle of Ulva
Eas Fors waterfall, Isle of Mull
Loch Beg, Isle of Mull
Loch Beg, Isle of Mull
Loch Beg wild-camping, Isle of Mull
Loch Beg, Isle of Mull
In search of the biggest splash
Hoy Lass, Ulva Ferry to Staffa
Fingal’s cave, Isle of Staffa
Basalt rock columns, Isle of Staffa
They love each other really
Fingal’s cave, Isle of Staffa
Seals, Isle of Ulva
Fionnphort, Isle of Mull
Oh no, a solo effort from Muzette.....
Pasta, beans & bockwürsts
Loch Buie, Fionnphort to Iona
Iona Abbey, Isle of Iona
Iona Abbey, Isle of Iona
Iona Abbey, Isle of Iona
Another intelligent moment
The Old Nunnery, Isle of Iona
Torosay castle, Isle of Mull
Duart castle, Isle of Mull
Loch Fyne, Fishnish to Lochaline
Corran, Ardgour to Nether Lochaber
River Etive, Rannoch Moor
Stob Dearg, Rannoch Moor
Rannoch Moor - Does wild-camping get any more wild than this?
Our 19th wedding anniversary on Rannoch Moor
Classy meal for our anniversary
Kings House Hotel, Rannoch Moor – Does the rainbow have any significance?
Exhausted!
Kilchurn castle, Argyll & Bute
Inveraray castle
Hebridean Isles, Oban to Port Askaig
Scalasaig, Isle of Colonsay
Loch Indaal wild-camping, Isle of Islay
Yet another acquisition, Isle of Islay
Traffic jam, Isle of Islay
Eilean Dhiura Port Askaig to Feolin Ferry
Corran sands, Isle of Jura
Isle of Jura
Classy B+B, Isle of Jura
Loch na Mile, Isle of Jura
Tràigh na Mile, Isle of Jura
Tràigh na Mile, Isle of Jura
Jura Distillery tour
Isle of Jura distillery
Whisky stills, Jura distillery
Traffic jam, Isle of Jura
Wyre Majestic wreck off Bunnahabhain, Isle of Islay. A 338 ton trawler which ran aground on October 18th 1974.
Dunyvaig castle, Isle of Islay
Port Ellen, Isle of Islay
Isle of Arran Port Ellen to Kennacraig
Levelling blocks from Fiamma’s Scottish agents
Skipness Bay, Kintyre wild-camping
Skipness Bay, Kintyre wild-camping
Those new heavy-duty rock-pegs people keep going on about
Skipness castle, Kintyre peninsula
Loch Tarbert, Claonaig to Lochranza
Lochranza castle, Isle of Arran
Kildonan castle, Isle of Arran, in typical Scottish weather
Brodick castle, Isle of Arran
Brodick castle, Isle of Arran
Caledonian Isles Brodick to Ardrossan
So, what’s the verdict on this year’s tour?