Bongo Fury

djswain1 wrote:The kit arrived today with the correct key blanks hope to find time at the weekend for fitting & to get the keys cut

Same here. Will report on findings at weekend.

Well it's fitted & working, finished it off last night..
The initial problem I had was that the actuator linkage rod supplied with the 2 wire actuator I bought was too short.
I spent quite a while trying to work out how to mount it. In the end I gave up & decided I needed a longer linking rod. It would be easier to try and find/obtain/buy some form of steel rod/heavy wire and make a new longer link up to mount the actuator Low down in the door (as in the FACT SHEET). With mounted here access is a bit easier and out of the way of the window mechanism.
I was lucky and manged to find a perfect piece of heavy wire/rod at work suitable for the job, a thick welding rod with the flux knocked off may do the job or another linkage (as the fact sheet author used) or you could but some rod:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRIGHT-MILD-STEEL ... .m14.l1262
With a longer actuator linkage rod the fitting of the actuator was quite straightforward.
The wiring was not too bad, the control unit has loads of wires most of which are redundant for my purposes and i just cut them off. Unfortunately I could not read any of the labelling on the fact sheet photo' I'd printed off & as it turned out there was the remains of a remote locking unit & wiring already fitted but that just complicated matters a little.
Basically though all that is required is a permanent (+) supply and (-) ground. I cut of two wires from the 'old' locking unit plug one which had a permanent (+) feed and the other which was (-) The control unit had a main power supply which is fused and and orange & orange/black wire which also required a (+) supply I didn't like the idea of these being un-fused inside the door so I cut the fused wire and joined them in so they were fused (the fuse might be too large but seemed logical to me). There are three wires that need a (-) and two switching wires to connect to the actuator.
I wrapped everything with spiral wrap to prevent anything chafing through on the door panel edges.

I have posted some photo's here:
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/ac30 ... %20ocking/

Although the fact sheet suggested it takes about two hours it took me a lot longer more like 4-5.. over several evenings & a lunch break.

The key fobs I have are fairly cheap & not as good a quality as an OEM key fob but hopefully they will be OK

Has anyone ever tried to use an audi or vw type key fob, or any other quality type. ilike the idea of the flick key and remote acess but I'm put off by the thought of cheap plastic key fobs.

So how did you all get on? all fitted ok? If so can you give us a breakdown of cost and parts and from where? How has it worked out and would you buy any different parts now you've had them for a while ie whats the quality like?

Any updates?

I fitted one of these kits...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Remote-Control-Ke ... 25571e3737

Fobs are pretty good quality, ok, not BMW/Merc maybe but nice enough (the chrome on the key is actually metal, rather than plastic which I half expected) I trimmed my Mazda key with a dremel and replaced the blank key that comes in the fob - secure with a drop of Alraldite epoxy resin. Flicks out on the push of a button.

The seller was doing these for £25 delivered, which is good value (I've no connection with them) Just be aware there are other kits by the same seller which don't come with the actuators, you need one of these for the drivers door... Reference to the fact sheet helps with fitting the moror unit.

The whole kit can be connected and left in the drivers door void, so no need to pass any wires through the door grommet if you're happy just to have remote lock/unlock. Took me less than an hour. The kit will flass the indicators for that you need to feed two wires, one each to the front indicators (another 1/2 hour)

Range for the remote is good and the car makes a nice solid clunk as it locks/unlocks. Well worth doing imo.

HTH

Any update Bongonaut as I'm looking to buy the same kit, did you get the kit and was it easy to install.

Thanks

Loz

Right today I ordered all the bits to add keyless unlocking to the bus.

Remote Keyless Entry KE786-ULT with Mazda MA20 Blades and Mazda Logo

2 Wire Slave Central Locking Door Motor (Solenoid/actuator)

Bright Mild Steel Round Bar / Rod 3mm DIA 900mm Long

from santa to me.

Hopefully I will fit it before the summer and not just leave it sitting in the cupboard

...Just be aware there are other kits by the same seller which don't come with the actuators, you need one of these for the drivers door...





would i still need the ''actuators'' if i already have central locking

Remote Keyless Entry KE786-ULT with Mazda MA20 Blades and Mazda Logo

Just fitted one of these kits. Used one actuator (slave type) in the driver's door. Wrapped all the spare wiring up inside the driver's door just in case I decide to do something with the other 3 actuators (unlikely).

What a boost to be able to walk up to the side door with the shopping, unlock the car, dump it all in, and then go round to the driver's door.

Don't forget to give the door bottoms a wee drink of waxoyl whilst you are in there....

>>would i still need the ''actuators'' if i already have central locking

As above, if you have the "std" Bongo central locking you still need one for the drivers door. The remote kit activates the actuator that you add.

To clarify, the standard bongo central locking has actuators in the passenger, side and rear doors, and only a position switch in the driver's door.

With these kits, you add an actuator to the driver's door, which moves the lock mechanism from inside the door - the standard system then thinks (because the position switch senses the new position of the lock) that the door was unlocked with the key, and then unlocks the rest of the car.

Hi dave,
I bought a similar kit from rightclick but found that the mazda key blanks don't work they are too small How did you find them Dave

Took them to my local key cutter, who is a mate of mine. His 'lad' in the shop started the first one, then my mate tutted a bit, and took over.

One works perfectly, one doesn't. I think the one that doesn't work is too wide (not cut deep enough). it is tight in the lock.

Haven't had a chance to take them back yet. Still got 2 original keys, plus one remote fob working, so not too bothered about the last one really.

MA20 is the right one, despite the fact that it looks back to front on their diagrams.

djswain1 wrote:Well it's fitted & working, finished it off last night..
The initial problem I had was that the actuator linkage rod supplied with the 2 wire actuator I bought was too short.
I spent quite a while trying to work out how to mount it. In the end I gave up & decided I needed a longer linking rod. It would be easier to try and find/obtain/buy some form of steel rod/heavy wire and make a new longer link up to mount the actuator Low down in the door (as in the FACT SHEET). With mounted here access is a bit easier and out of the way of the window mechanism.
I was lucky and manged to find a perfect piece of heavy wire/rod at work suitable for the job, a thick welding rod with the flux knocked off may do the job or another linkage (as the fact sheet author used) or you could but some rod:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRIGHT-MILD-STEEL ... .m14.l1262
With a longer actuator linkage rod the fitting of the actuator was quite straightforward.
The wiring was not too bad, the control unit has loads of wires most of which are redundant for my purposes and i just cut them off. Unfortunately I could not read any of the labelling on the fact sheet photo' I'd printed off & as it turned out there was the remains of a remote locking unit & wiring already fitted but that just complicated matters a little.
Basically though all that is required is a permanent (+) supply and (-) ground. I cut of two wires from the 'old' locking unit plug one which had a permanent (+) feed and the other which was (-) The control unit had a main power supply which is fused and and orange & orange/black wire which also required a (+) supply I didn't like the idea of these being un-fused inside the door so I cut the fused wire and joined them in so they were fused (the fuse might be too large but seemed logical to me). There are three wires that need a (-) and two switching wires to connect to the actuator.
I wrapped everything with spiral wrap to prevent anything chafing through on the door panel edges.

I have posted some photo's here:
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/ac30 ... %20ocking/

Although the fact sheet suggested it takes about two hours it took me a lot longer more like 4-5.. over several evenings & a lunch break.

The key fobs I have are fairly cheap & not as good a quality as an OEM key fob but hopefully they will be OK

I had the same problem & raided my mums closet & found (as i knew i would) some of those big gauge heavy duty old school wire coat hangers...!
I fashioned (no pun intended) the hanger into one long rod, connecting from the actuator with a secure link through the hole to the rod under the internal door lock button using the connector that came with the original (now redundant) short actuator rod. Making it easy to adjust the linkage without scraping the knuckles.. Works a treat!
The last time i used a hanger was when i locked my keys in the car in the 80's

They don't make coat hangers like that any more, & i even got a spare for helping with the guiding of the wiring through bulk heads!

Just don't tell my mum, she thinks i'm using em for a suit!!