Bongo Fury

Probably another stupid question from me, but anyway...

I want to add a switch between a fuse box that I've attached to the leisure battery and one of the devices running off it. I've got hold of a fog light switch, that is a perfect fit for one of the blanks in the dashboard. It's got two pairs of contacts, and I've taken a live cable from the fusebox to one of the top contacts on the switch, and connected the device cable to the contact immediately below it. It works fine, cutting off the power when I turn off the switch. Trouble is, the LED on the switch doesn't come on when I flip the switch. Like I say - a daft question

the 2 pairs of contacts ,one will be for the consumer the other for the tell-tale quik check with a multi meter will help.

dvisor wrote:Probably another stupid question from me, but anyway...

I want to add a switch between a fuse box that I've attached to the leisure battery and one of the devices running off it. I've got hold of a fog light switch, that is a perfect fit for one of the blanks in the dashboard. It's got two pairs of contacts, and I've taken a live cable from the fusebox to one of the top contacts on the switch, and connected the device cable to the contact immediately below it. It works fine, cutting off the power when I turn off the switch. Trouble is, the LED on the switch doesn't come on when I flip the switch. Like I say - a daft question

One pair of contacts will probably be for the lamp (LED). If so, loop a wire from the switched side of the other contacts to the primary side of the contacts that supply the lamp (LED's are polarity sensitive so maybe the contacts are marked + & -)
Then a wire from the negetive side to connect to earth (chassis).

I hope that helps.

I've stuck a meter on the switch, and the blades are arranged as follows:

A C
B D

When the switch is on, A & B are connected, and C & D are connected. When the switch is off, none are connected.

I've cabled it up so that A goes off to the fuse, and B goes off to the device. There's nothing on C & D.

In theory you need to power c-d then to light the switch light.

Thanks for the replies. Think its sussed now.

A C
B D

Live feed from fuse to blade C; blade D to device; blade B to earth. Seems to work fine on the bench, with the LED lighting up when switched on

If anyone's interested, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWNX:IT fit in the the dash perfectly (but not particularly cheap).

That's what had been fitted for my rear fog switch too, or keep an eye out on ebay or in scrappies for mazda switches, 626 ones are the same as the top ones & I think it's the MX5 ones the same as the bottom switches.

Well done for breaking the combination. It had to be something like that.
I too have the same switch for the rear fog light.

dvisor wrote:Thanks for the replies. Think its sussed now.

A C
B D

Live feed from fuse to blade C; blade D to device; blade B to earth. Seems to work fine on the bench, with the LED lighting up when switched on

I'm trying to do something similar and have got the same switch as this I think. Out of the 4 blades I've got 1 marked with a cross in a circle (positive I presume) 2 with other marking (one like a christmas tree on its side (earth?) and another (bit like a jellyfish??). The other one is not marked. Does anyone know how that relates to

A C
B D

Cheers

Andrew

The standard symbols are;
Ground
Chassis
The above are identical for vehicles and also connect to the -Ve of the battery for a Bongo.
Not sure if these relate to your Xmas tree and or jelly fish

g8dhe wrote:The standard symbols are;
Ground
Chassis
The above are identical for vehicles and also connect to the -Ve of the battery for a Bongo.
Not sure if these relate to your Xmas tree and or jelly fish

The ground is definitely my christmas tree! My jellyfish however doesn't look like the chassis. The ground is opposite the positive as you look at the switch from the back. Is this the one I need to earth to enable the LED to light up, and take the fused positive into the + on the switch and then out from the blade underneath it (the jellyfish, or I'm now thinking it's more like one of the ghosts from pacman!!)

Thanks again

Andrew

There isn't a definitive standard that I am aware of, but quite often the one marked + is taken to +12volts, the one marked chassis or ground is taken to earth and one or more others unmarked are for the load itself.... but it can vary.

g8dhe wrote:There isn't a definitive standard that I am aware of, but quite often the one marked + is taken to +12volts, the one marked chassis or ground is taken to earth and one or more others unmarked are for the load itself.... but it can vary.

Thanks Geoff.
A case of trial and error then!
I think I'll wire the + from the LB into the + of the switch and the - into the ground, and go from there.

Cheers

Andrew

dvisor wrote:Thanks for the replies. Think its sussed now.

A C
B D

Live feed from fuse to blade C; blade D to device; blade B to earth. Seems to work fine on the bench, with the LED lighting up when switched on

If anyone's interested, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWNX:IT fit in the the dash perfectly (but not particularly cheap).

Sorry to be a nuisance but this link is now dead after three years. Is there anyone who remembers where these switches can be obtained? There's a rear fog lamp rocker switch on my dashboard which neatly fits in the hole left when the Bongo blanking plate is removed. It came with the Bongo and was fitted by algys in Bristol. The only ones I can find are not as deep so leave a space above and below. Any (helpful) suggestions?

Thanks for any help.

this lot have 'em at £6-99 a pop (http://www.campers-scotland.com/parts.html) - just google "Bongo fog switch" and you should find some

I got three to control the power from my Leisure battry to the radio, and front and rear 12v supplies