Bongo Fury

Hi guy's ,

I'm slowly renewing the cooling system as each item fails, thermostat, radiator, and now pump

Some dye traced the water pump at fault this time and every time I move off theres a greeny glow on the road!!
Anyway, what is the procedure for getting it out. Got to be from below I expect?

Cheers

John

handyman wrote:Hi guy's ,

I 'm slowly renewing the cooling system as each item fails, thermostat,radiator, and now pump

Some dye traced the water pump at fault this time and every time I move off theres a greeny glow on the road!!
Anyway, what is the procedure for getting it out. Got to be from below I expect?

Cheers

John

Yes from below. I jacked my front end up as high as poss and put some axle stands in and was able to do the whole job in about an hour. the bolts are a bit fiddly to get at but a small socket set and a bit of patience is all that is required

i found hardest part was removing the big fan in order to see what i was doing

wonkanoby wrote:i found hardest part was removing the big fan in order to see what i was doing

I didnt remove the scavenger fan and im a big lad
lying on my back i was able to get at everything easy enough. i havd thought about removing the fan but that is harder than the pump to be honest.
be careful with the bolt heads as these are quite soft. I bought a teng tools 3/8 drive " long" 11 and 12 mm socket for the bongo jobs and with its 5 sided constuction and very tight fit got these off without hassle even the first one i managed to round off real easy with a standard socket. the torque settings are very light also so make sure you have a torque wrench as already mentioned these are quite soft bolts.

Factsheet in the members area - http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... erpump.pdf

I'd say its easier from above, but then I again I've never tried from below. Either way, bendy-back arms would make it much easier

I found it easier to do from below. I used axel stands as mentioned above to get clearance underneath. When you break the gasket seal to take the pump off, make sure you are not under the engine; you will get wet. Very wet. I figured this and went into the cab to break the gasket joint and it dropped about one and a half litres of coolant.Also the two end bolts are actually nuts. The body are bolts, but the two ends are locating posts with nuts. I did not know that and dropped one behind the fan belt pulley at the front of the engine and it was quite a job to find it and fish it out. Getting the fan off was by far the hardest part of the job and it took time for me to figure out the pulley tensioner system for keeping the belts in tension.

Took a lot longer to get it apart then putting it back together again.

Hippotastic wrote:I found it easier to do from below. I used axel stands as mentioned above to get clearance underneath. When you break the gasket seal to take the pump off, make sure you are not under the engine; you will get wet. Very wet. I figured this and went into the cab to break the gasket joint and it dropped about one and a half litres of coolant.Also the two end bolts are actually nuts. The body are bolts, but the two ends are locating posts with nuts. I did not know that and dropped one behind the fan belt pulley at the front of the engine and it was quite a job to find it and fish it out. Getting the fan off was by far the hardest part of the job and it took time for me to figure out the pulley tensioner system for keeping the belts in tension.

Took a lot longer to get it apart then putting it back together again.

Don't get what you mean about the pulley tensioner system. I was able to get mine out by just loosening off the alternator( release clamp bolt and turn tensioner bolt, from memory it turns the wrong way than expected) and remove the belts. Not sure if I could remove them completely but was enough to get the job done.
Good call on breaking the seal from above unless you want a face full of coolant. I think the bolts were different lengths too so be careful where you replace them.
I worked from below without stands or ramps but wished I had them.
Tried to remove the scavenger fan but gave up.
Clean the matin surfaces. Of old gasket and use some blue sealer on both sides of the paper gasket supplied. Only a thin smear is needed and it gets quite messy.

Oh yeah, loosen the water pump pulley bolts before you slacken the alternator belts. You may also need to wedge a lump of wood in between the belt and pulley to stop it turning. Don't use anything sharp that will damage the belts.
Make sure the studs are tight before replacing the new pump.
Good luck

Have to say I replaced water pump on both my Bongos and IMO from the top was easier. Also a decent ratchet spanner helped

I'm hoping to get another water pump delivered tomorrow. I put this one on only six months ago, but I've used "steel seal" and this is bad for the water pump.
I did it from below last time, front wheels lifted up only a few inches, and the scavenger fan in situ. No problems last time but this time the alternator nut was frozen solid. It took me about 30 minutes to get it off, destructively, with a hammer and cold chisel. Apart from that annoying niggle, its not too hard a job.
The bleeding takes longer than the water pump replacement.

Thanks for all the replies
Pump has arrived yesterday from Jap Spares. In the box was 4 new studs. I take it that there is a possibility of the old studs coming out when undoing the nuts.

Anyway I'll probably do it from below as I found it tight from above when inspecting the leaks.

Like Falcoron am a bit big

Cheers

Did mine last night.
I got four studs too. There are only two studs on the engine, so I wonder if these are for fitting the pully to the pump. Mine uses bolts, but maybe studs are used on some.
Thinking about it, it was probably easier without having the front too high. I could lie flat on my back and reach all the bolts without stretching. I just drove onto two pieces of 2x2, but I also had the nearside wheels on the pavement so I got and extra few inches from the kerb height.
As I thought - it took longer to bleed the system than fit the pump.

Aethelric wrote:Did mine last night.
I got four studs too. There are only two studs on the engine, so I wonder if these are for fitting the pully to the pump. Mine uses bolts, but maybe studs are used on some.
Thinking about it, it was probably easier without having the front too high. I could lie flat on my back and reach all the bolts without stretching. I just drove onto two pieces of 2x2, but I also had the nearside wheels on the pavement so I got and extra few inches from the kerb height.
As I thought - it took longer to bleed the system than fit the pump.

that is exactly right these studs are not needed.