Bongo Fury

My 97 Bongo starts first turn, but only fires on 2 then 3 then 4 with lots of white smoke for the first 2 or 3 minutes. Does it from cold and when left more than about 10 minutes from hot. The only time it doesn't is if I restart straight away. I've used injector cleaner, no improvement. Your thoughts, folks??
Nick

Thanks to those who helped with the overheating problem, now resolved.

Glow plugs on the way out

francophile1947 wrote:Glow plugs on the way out

Does sound like a possibility. Out of interest, have the first starts of the day improved at all as the weather gets warmer. Also, I've not heard of this problem if engine is warm and only been switched off for 10 mins, but I suppose there's always a first time.

I'm trying to think if there's a way of checking glowplug health through measuring their electrical resistance. Can anyone comment?

Any difference between the 4 plugs resistance will indicate a faulty plug.
It will still work, not properly though.
It will also show up a broken plug.

mikeonb4c wrote:

francophile1947 wrote:Glow plugs on the way out

Does sound like a possibility. Out of interest, have the first starts of the day improved at all as the weather gets warmer. Also, I've not heard of this problem if engine is warm and only been switched off for 10 mins, but I suppose there's always a first time.

I'm trying to think if there's a way of checking glowplug health through measuring their electrical resistance. Can anyone comment?

Listed below are some guidelines to refer to when checking fast glow plug systems.


48 amps - all glow plugs are operating correctly.
36 amps - one glow plug is defective.
24 amps - two glow plugs are defective.
12 amps - three glow plugs are defective.
0 amp - all glow plugs are defective
.

For slow glow systems use the following amp rating to test:


36 amps - all glow plugs are operating correctly.
27 amps - one glow plug is defective.
18 amps - two glow plugs are defective.
9 amps - three glow plugs are defective.
0 amp - all glow plugs are defective.


The above specifications are applicable to four-cylinder applications.
If you have more than four glow plugs, just add 12 amps
for each fast glow plug
and 9 amps for each additional slow glow plug.
NOTE: Depending on outside temperature, you may
experience a surge of current up to 140 amps.

A couple of excellent posts there

I know how to measure resistance using my multimeter (simples ) but how would I use it to measure high currents? I've heard people use 'shunts' but I've no idea what that means or how you do it

White smoke is generally considered a sign of water in the cylinders, whereas blue smoke with a whiff of unburnt diesel would tend to point to glow plugs.

Easiest way to measure larger current is to use a clamp-on multimeter, however, these tend only work on AC rather than DC.

Try one of these 400 Amps DC is the highest range @ £38.19 its a good price.
They are doing free postage over £10 this weekend, provided you ask for it on the order completion form.

That's a good find Geoff. The ones on Maplin website only mentioned AC current. I guess you have to weigh it up against the cost of buying a new set of glowplugs. These may not be the worlds best, but for £25.60 they're cheaper than the tools needed to diagnose a fault.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-2-5-RANGER-M ... 500wt_1182

[quote="Simon Jones"]White smoke is generally considered a sign of water in the cylinders,

have you checked for signs of water/gunk in the oil, sounds like head/ block loosing water into chambers imo,when started it burns it off,is it using water ?

Northern Bongolow wrote:

Simon Jones wrote:White smoke is generally considered a sign of water in the cylinders,

have you checked for signs of water/gunk in the oil, sounds like head/ block loosing water into chambers imo,when started it burns it off,is it using water ?

I'd considered this one but didn't like to raise concerns....yet. But as you say Ady - is it losing any coolant, as that should be happening if it is escaping into the chambers?

nickrob wrote:Does it from cold and when left more than about 10 minutes from hot. The only time it doesn't is if I restart straight away.

As I understand it, as long as the engine is still hot, it should start quite well without need for pre-heating. So glowplug / relay failure would make sense when cold, but seems less likely when warm.

nickrob wrote:Thanks to those who helped with the overheating problem, now resolved.

I haven't keep up to date on your overheating problems, but if the starting problem didn't exist prior to overheating, then I would have to consider the possibility that there is still something like a small crack in the block / head which is allowing coolant to seep into the combustion chambers. However, I hope it's something less significant .

nickrob, just been looking at your other posts http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... hp?t=39943 & note that you mentioned:

"On the positive side, done about 20 miles today without incident and very, very slight coolant loss and no overheating. On the more worrying side, when starting, even from warm, there is a puff of white smoke and only fires on 3 cylinders for about 10 seconds."

The head has been changed, there was then a water loss & overheating incident. It then seemed to rectify itself & now there is still a slight coolant loss, combined with white smoke on start up. I can't help thinking you're original problem is still lurking....sorry.