Electric Water Pump.
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 5:04 pm
Hi All,
Been looking at electric water pumps (ewp) for vehicles.
Can be expensive £263, water pump and auto controler.
Having spoken to a supplier, the items are Australian, fitting would be best done as:
Ewp into bottom hose.
Sensor into pipe/radiator or similar.
Controler inside cab.
Original water pump, remove & blank off or impeller fins removed and pump refitted and either driven or shorter belt fitted and pump bypassed.
Thermostat removed or holes drilled in it to aid pulsed flow.
The controler pulses coolant 10seconds on, 30 seconds off during start & warm up. If the stat has been removed then warm up can take a little longer.
When coolant is at operating temperature as set on the controler (85c stat opening temp approx or 95c running temp approx) the controler monitors temperature and switches ewp on/off as required, like home central heating.
The set up runs for 2mins on switch off so as to cool engine/turbo etc down.
The pressure the e.w.p. produces is lower than a driven one that has to cool at low revs efficiently when vehicle stopped and pressure then increases when running at speed.
Advantages:
More precise cooling, more available power especialy when original pump not driven & that can result in better mpg.
A lack of air trapped by thermostat when its removed.
The controler can also switch radiator fans on/off at set temperatures that is different from the pump on/off temperature.
Ewp's can run up to 20,000 hours with no problems. The cooling system needs to be 'crud' free but that's a good thing anyway.
The above is just a brief over view of the workings of the ewp that are now fitted to many modern vehicles either as a stand alone or suplimentary to the cooling system.
Something a little different to think & talk about!
Cheers
Boots
Been looking at electric water pumps (ewp) for vehicles.
Can be expensive £263, water pump and auto controler.
Having spoken to a supplier, the items are Australian, fitting would be best done as:
Ewp into bottom hose.
Sensor into pipe/radiator or similar.
Controler inside cab.
Original water pump, remove & blank off or impeller fins removed and pump refitted and either driven or shorter belt fitted and pump bypassed.
Thermostat removed or holes drilled in it to aid pulsed flow.
The controler pulses coolant 10seconds on, 30 seconds off during start & warm up. If the stat has been removed then warm up can take a little longer.
When coolant is at operating temperature as set on the controler (85c stat opening temp approx or 95c running temp approx) the controler monitors temperature and switches ewp on/off as required, like home central heating.
The set up runs for 2mins on switch off so as to cool engine/turbo etc down.
The pressure the e.w.p. produces is lower than a driven one that has to cool at low revs efficiently when vehicle stopped and pressure then increases when running at speed.
Advantages:
More precise cooling, more available power especialy when original pump not driven & that can result in better mpg.
A lack of air trapped by thermostat when its removed.
The controler can also switch radiator fans on/off at set temperatures that is different from the pump on/off temperature.
Ewp's can run up to 20,000 hours with no problems. The cooling system needs to be 'crud' free but that's a good thing anyway.
The above is just a brief over view of the workings of the ewp that are now fitted to many modern vehicles either as a stand alone or suplimentary to the cooling system.
Something a little different to think & talk about!
Cheers
Boots