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Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:09 pm
by Diplomat
I hope to fit front shock absorbers myself.
Has anyone done this recently? Is it fairly easy, or a right b'std of a job?
Frank
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:41 pm
by scanner
You need some spring compressors and it can be difficult undoing the big nut on the top without the shaft turning. See the recent thread about problems fitting lowered springs.
Depending on age/condition it could be difficult getting other nuts and bolts off as well.
I'm not sure if you have to get the tracking checked afterwards either as I chickened out and got a mate with a garage to to it.
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:57 pm
by Diplomat
I'm not sure if you have to get the tracking checked afterwards either as I chickened out and got a mate with a garage to to it.
Thanks, Scanner.
Realignment/tracking was the first thing to cross my mind when reccying the job.
Think I might just take the parts to the MOT garage where it is going to be retested!
With luck I can sort out the fuel drip myself.
I could buy a half decent car for what this year's MOT is costing me!
Frank.
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 6:12 am
by helen&tony
Hi
Just a thought, when changing the legs at the front, do you change the seatings , etc. at the top?...I would presume they are also a bit cream crackered....I shall be getting my shockers done soon....any thoughts welcome
Cheers
Helen
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:10 am
by Diplomat
Hi Helen.
The top seatings look ok.
The only assessment that I have made, so far, is that it is probably not going to be an easy job. Someone please tell me otherwise!
Hopefully, things will become more obvious when I see the replacements - off the van.
Scanner, re the top nut. I wonder if it would be best to loosen it with the weight on it before jacking anything up? That might stop the rest from turning. Also it would keep things a bit lower down for working on.
Initially I only have to sort out the nearside one for retesting, plus the associated droplink. I'll see how it goes on time and swear words before doing both in one go. I've ordered parts for both sides (along with a new exhaust), hence the need for a remortgage!
Frank
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 11:41 am
by helen&tony
Hi
I think it may be worth getting new gaiters as well, Frank...I know mine need replacing.
Cheers
Helen
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:05 pm
by 321Away
Its not that difficult a job so dont worry! need 10mm, 12mm, 14mm 21mm and pliers and its out!
1.Remove the wheel (obvious!)
2.if you have abs, sensor cabling plate is held on by a 12mm bolt, which covers the 21mm nuts, remove bolt.
3.look around back of shock and you'll see where the brake pipe goes through a support on the back of the shock, using pliers, pull the retaining plate away from you and the pipe will come away from the shock.
4.Remove the 2 21mm nuts and bolts and the entire hub assembly will now be loose and can be lowered away from the shock, **Make sure to support the hub assembly or the weight will pull on the ABS/brake pipe**
5.Open your bonnet and depending on which side shock your removing, Near side, remove the header tank (10mm) and the 3 bolts holding the shock are accesible. Off side, nuts are accesible with the battery in situ but sometimes the more space the better! undo the 3 nuts whilst supporting the shock, as soon as the nuts are undone the shock will fall away and cause untold damage!!
6.The shock top plate is held on by single nut (17mm IIRC),make sure you have the spring clamps on nice n tight before you go anywhere near it tho!! top plate off, spring off, gaiter and bump stop off, job done!
7.As they say in Haynes refitting is the reversal of removal lol!!
Apologise in advance if that seems like a teaching to suck eggs approach,but always prefer to cover everything!
Julian
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:26 pm
by Diplomat
It would have been nice to think that the gaiters were included in the price!
I take it that you've got something else to drive, over there, Helen, when unexpected delays in getting vital parts hit Bongo maintenance?
Frank
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:26 pm
by Diplomat
321 Away.
Thanks, Julian, I will print that out!
At what stage do I put the spring clamps on?
Is any realignment needed, as per Scanner's concern?
Frank
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 1:50 pm
by helen&tony
Hi Frank
No, I limit the mileage, as the roads are appalling...and I don't start a job unless I have some following days in case of problems....We did have an Opel, but I sold it...rubbishy things...Regarding parts, I order from the UK...quicker than ordering here...the Bulgarians have absolutely no idea of how to order a biro....let alone a car part...but the post is good!
Cheers
Helen
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:36 pm
by 321Away
Put the spring clamps on after the shock assembly is removed from the vehicle, once you have them clamped down and most of the pressure taken off the spring,only then loosen the top mount bolt,comes off in 2 pieces and has a flat side to the hole so can only go back 1 way.
every time we've changed shocks and sent them for aligment checks after and have never known them to make any adjustments, might be more luck than judegment tho! even a minor movement in any suspension component could affect the wheel alignment so if its a concern then i'd suggest running it inot your local just to put your mind at ease.
Julian
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:34 am
by Diplomat
Thanks once again, Julian. Might just print the instructions!
Frank
Re: Changing front shock absorber
Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 11:03 pm
by Diplomat
Job done!
The main nuts came undone with a bit of leverage - they didn't budge with shock treatment. Also the header tank can be moved enough to get at the top nuts.
The drop link was obviously not going to come free so it was angle grinder or nothing. Cut away the top first as it enabled me to remove the Macpherson strut and, with that out of the way, access to the anti-roll bar end of the link was easier (doing it from behind did not look like an easy job).
Had to be careful not to accidentally damage the anti-roll bar so initially cut the inner nut close to the bar then turned the grinder perpendicular to the cut face and carefully ground out the centre until the remains (including the outer nut still attached to the sawn off bolt) fell out and off.
Having had a word with a mechanic 3 minutes walk away I took the parts to him to change the spring over to the new strut. Well worth a very modest charge instead of dicing with danger. They are big powerful springs compared with car jobbies. All went back ok and I put some penetrating oil on the track adjuster in case it needs doing but It feels ok and steers straight so will look at the tyres every so often for signs but can't see why it would have gone back together out of alignment.
Thanks for advice and encouragement. As Julian said, it's not a difficult job. Especially if you can save time by hacking of the stubborn drop link.
Frank