Bongo Fury

I got in the old bird yesterday and went for a little run to keep her ticking over. What i noticed was my Low coolant alarm flashed 3 or 4 times, no alarm, just the LED flashed and then stopped after about 10 mins.
I checked the level, and it hasn't budged, so its ok, I just wondered if anyone else had this happen to them??

Thanks

maybe your battery is slightly low.but haydn may spot this and comment.

dext924 wrote:I got in the old bird yesterday and went for a little run to keep her ticking over. What i noticed was my Low coolant alarm flashed 3 or 4 times, no alarm, just the LED flashed and then stopped after about 10 mins.
I checked the level, and it hasn't budged, so its ok, I just wondered if anyone else had this happen to them??

Thanks

I was just about to post a very similar question, my LCA tests itself then when going round corners bleeps and flashes, after a while it goes off. Coolant level is fine, and I was just wondering if a low battery can cause this, have I somehow wired it through the leisure battery when fitting a Willington kit?

Let me know if it happens again........could be that..
1... the level is a bit low when cold and warms/expands as you get under way.
2... the screw swnsor could be a bit dirty...( take it out and clean it)
3.... loose connection at the screw terminal or the other end of the black sensor wire where it bullet connects.

Does it beep and flash at start up ??

That indicates a low level when cold ....make sure you are up to the FULL line when cold..
It will be much higher when warm

Thanks for replies Haydn. I presume as my question was 2nd then the second reply applied to me.

I have topped up the coolant now, although indicated above the full markl having been stopped for 4 hours or so. Can it do any harm being overfilled other than diluting the coolant a very small amount?

Apologies all for causing confusion but it seemed only sensible to post on the same topic.
( or is it only me thats being confused.... quite possible!)

The best way to determin the coolant level (IMHO) is :-
in the morning when it is cold..

IF YOU can see the level through the tank side (NOT DOWN THE FILLER)
Get the level EXACTLY on the FULL line

If you carn't see through the tank :- stick a wooden lolly stick vertically down the filler till it hits the bottom and fill it so 20mm show wet..

If you do that then your alarm should not do anything.

On very cold mornings you may find the alarm "mutters a bit till you have done a mile or so.

Mine "mutters a bit for the first few minutes of driving and then stops, Anything electrical switching on or cornering seems to influence it. I have been putting it down to a drop in voltage after standing as I only really use the Bongo on odd days and at the weekend.

I can ignore it easily but it dives the luggage nuts.

haydn callow wrote:


On very cold mornings you may find the alarm "mutters a bit till you have done a mile or so.

Do you think the 'mutters' stopping could be down to a rise in temperature pressurising the tank above the coolant controlling movement?

TGP.....no I doubt it......as long as the sensor is covered the alarm is happy.....cold coolant is a poor conductor (below 15 degrees and worse the lower it gets)
I am producing a factsheet/troubleshooting guide which may answer most questions

haydn callow wrote:TGP.....no I doubt it......as long as the sensor is covered the alarm is happy.....cold coolant is a poor conductor (below 15 degrees and worse the lower it gets)
I am producing a factsheet/troubleshooting guide which may answer most questions

Haydn..... is there a difference in the conductivity between the coolant types......Non OAT & OAT......?.... just curious....

Not that I am aware of...perhaps a resistance that forces the sensor voltage up 0.2 volt max one way or the other.....strength and tempreture have the most effect.

I am just finishing the rirst draft of a info sheet.
It's all jumbled up co's Ive pasted from a word tables doc..but you will get the drift


EngineSaver ‘HAYDN’
LOW COOLANT ALARM (LCA)

FACTSHEET AND TROUBLE SHOOTING

WARNING :- Always work on a cool engine and do not remove any pressure caps until the engine is cool…ALWAYS remove caps slowly and carefully release any pressure in the system.

The LCA is an excellent & reliable system that will help to protect your engine from overheating because of coolant loss. IT IS NOT A GUARANTEE, however, as many owners can testify, it can pre warn you and save expensive engine damage. The LCA only does what it ‘says on the tin’ warns you if coolant is lost and the LCA sensor is no longer immersed in coolant.
REMEMBER:- it is possible to overheat a engine without losing coolant. e.g. jammed thermostat, failed water pump, blockage, air in the cooling system (this can be caused by a small leak on the negative side of the water pump, this will suck air in and in fact the level in the system can rise rather than fall). When the engine cools the level will then drop and the alarm warn you. Fortunately these circumstances are fairly rare and in most cases the alarm will warn you before the temperature starts to rise.

TROUBLE SHOOTING


You turn the ignition on and the LED flashes but no Beep Faulty Buzzer (alarm will still do it’s job but LED only) Contact Haydn for replacement (return faulty unit for repair)
You turn the ignition on and the unit Beeps but no LED
LED bad connection (alarm will still do it’s job Buzzer only) You could try and relocate the LED into the wire (polarity sensitive) or return as above.
You turn on the ignition and ‘nothing’ (no Beep, no LED) Faulty Pos/Neg connections to the unit or a (failed unit {extremely rare}) Check the connections (Positive/Negative) from/to the alarm unit. If that does not fix it….contact HAYDN
You turn the ignition on and the alarm sounds continuously LOW COOLANT or a poor sensor wire connection Top up the coolant. Check sensor wire connection for continuity and crimp terminals at the sensor/unit ends.
You turn the ignition on and the alarm has a longer than normal Beep/Flash (5 secs) Very cold coolant (frosty night)
Weak coolant strength.
Combination of the above

This can be normal in cold weather (cold coolant is a poor electrical conductor)
Test and correct coolant strength.
You turn the ignition on and the alarm “mutters” (gets worse over several days) Sensor dirty/coated
We have found that some coolants when first added to a cooling system “cover” the inside of the cooling system with a protective coat. This can also coat the sensor and cause the alarm to ‘go off’ WHEN THE SYSTEM IS COOL :- remove the sensor screw and wire brush it clean (or contact me for a new screw) If this fixes the problem that should be it as the coolant probably will have used up all it’s coating properties.
Additives in the coolant can also cause this problem




You loose coolant so the sensor is not covered in coolant and the alarm does not go off (rare) Slimy coating built up on the inside of the system (creating a electrical circuit for the alarm) Drain and chemically flush the system and clean out or replace the header tank.

Techi Bumff :- If you suspect from the above that the sensor may have become dirty/coated you can investigate as follows :-

Use a voltmeter and put one probe to earth and the other to the head of the sensor screw:- if all is well you should get a reading of approx 1.5 +/- volts…..if the reading is over approx 2.2 then you are seeing a extra resistance caused by sensor dirty/coating…..the “alarm” threshold for these units is PRE November2010 2.4volts POST November 2010 2.8 volts
Once these voltages are reached the alarm will gradually over time start to ‘mutter’
You can also test this by .Getting a 12 inch length of wire….stripping a little insulation off each end and …whilst holding one end against the head of the sensor screw…dipping the other end in the tank coolant…..If the alarm now functions normally you need to clean/replace the screw.
You must use a Stainless Steel screw of the correct size in at least A2 SS quality or better still A4 316 SS

Also be aware that these alarms are voltage sensitive and will ‘act up’ if the supply voltage fluctuates unduly…This can give early warning of failing main battery or the alternator.

Please also be aware:- the Bongo temp gauge sits at it’s ‘normal’ 11 o’clock position when the coolant reaches 55C…it will not move from this position until the coolant temperature reaches approx 100/110C…this happens quickly and can be a very late warning of overheating.

swerve wrote:Thanks for replies Haydn. I presume as my question was 2nd then the second reply applied to me.

I have topped up the coolant now, although indicated above the full markl having been stopped for 4 hours or so. Can it do any harm being overfilled other than diluting the coolant a very small amount?

Overfilling is as critical a situation as underfilling. It's not just an "expansion tank" in the common sense. It's primarilly a de-gassing tank, the tank needs a clear area above the full mark to do it's job properly, which it can't do if full of coolant.

Mine never beeped, just flashed for 3 or 4 times then stopped. It beeps and lights up on start up as it does the self test, then over the next 5 minutes it will flash every 20-30 seconds, but no beep. Checked the level, and thats ok.
My only thought either the coolant was too cold, or there was a power issue. The day before I left the inside light on, but it didn't drain it enough as it started with no problems at all.

I will be out in the week in it again and see if it still does it

the LED will always be the first to alarm by a second or so co's it requires less power to light a LED than the buzzer......your symptoms do point towards low voltage.