Bongo Fury

Hi there,

The last time I did work on a car to fix rust was about 25 years ago when I had an old Fiesta that turned out to be botched together out of several vehicles. Luckily, my Bongo is nearly pristine but today after taking off the rear spoiler I found that it has been rubbing, with years of abrasive grime and worn through the paint in a few places leaving some rust that just appears to be surface rust (see pics). It seems to be because the rubber seal/cushioning has regraded over the years, slipped and to some extent disintegrated.





My question for the panel of experts on here, is how would you recommend that I treat the rust prior to refitting the spoiler. Bear in mind that the spoiler will (just about)cover the repair so I am free to use what is most effective rather than what looks the nicest. In the old days I would sand to bear metal and use hammerite. Is this still the best technique or has rust treatment technology advanced?

Any advice would be appreciated. Please also see the pics to see what I mean. I will also need to replace the sealant on the rear spoiler if anyone has any bright ideas? It needs to be a couple of millimeters thick by the look of it and waterproof and cushioning.

Thanks,

Ian

If it's not showing, in my opinion, Hammerite is still a good option
Regarding the seal, couldn't you just use silicone sealant? If you spread it out, to the thickness required, and leave it to cure/dry, it will keep the spoiler away from the bodywork and act as a cushion

Silicone sealant is definitely an option. I was thinking of refitting the spoiler while it was wet so ensure a good seal if I go that route. I have also found on ebay some neoprene rubber strip for a couple of quid so that may also be a possibility.

Regarding the rust, I have been scouring the internet this morning and there are rust converting fluids but they seem to get pretty mixed reviews.

longwori wrote:Silicone sealant is definitely an option. I was thinking of refitting the spoiler while it was wet so ensure a good seal if I go that route. I have also found on ebay some neoprene rubber strip for a couple of quid so that may also be a possibility.

Regarding the rust, I have been scouring the internet this morning and there are rust converting fluids but they seem to get pretty mixed reviews.

Beware of neoprene, because a lot of it is spongy and holds the water, which may increase the risk of more rust.
I've tried several rust treatments, but never found one that fully meets it's claims My mate swears by Jenolite, but I just swore at it

Hi John,

A fair few people seem to agree with your views of Jenolite and then there are a few that like it. I think I will just try to remove as much as poss and then hammerite over any bare metal and then refit the spoiler. Its a good point about the neoprene. Maybe its some other foam rubber compound that I would need or the silicone option which may be easier.

Silicone sealant doesnt affect vehicle paintwork does it anyone?

Hi
Neoprene is O.K. in a gasket form if it isn't a foam. If it is a foam, then closed cell foam won't absorb water, but rigid would be better:
http://www.rhnuttall.co.uk/
failing that,I have used strips cut off an old Cali-Pak to interpose between a vibrating part!, but best of all is old inner-tube for truck tyres.
Rust treatment...gring it all off, and I am a jenolite fan...follow the instructions, and it doesn't fail....I use Hammerite anti-rust primer afterwards, or a resin primer, and the job's done. If you can't see it, then Hammerite is good
Or..If you can find it in the UK, This paint is terrific:
http://www.orgachim.bg/index.php?locati ... 57&start=0
I've roughly wire-brushed rusty metal, and used 2 coats of this stuff, with 24-48 hours between coats, and it puts up with the extreme conditions here!...on exposed metal that often gets covered with 3 feet of snow!.
Cheers
Helen

Hi Helen,

Thanks for the info. I have searched for a "cali-pak" but cant find out what one is but I can imagine it is something rubber. As for the Hammerite anti-rust primer, I was not aware that this existed and have only ever top-coated with hammerite directly to the metal before so I will get a tin of that in the hope it helps.

I like the inner-tube idea. I can maybe call on Kwik-Fit and ask if they have something I can save from the skip that will do.

Cheers,

Ian

Hi
I don't know what they are called now, but I was referring to the thin roll-up back packing mattresses....'fraid my back-packing days are long over...too many damaged joints!!! ...Yes...I am a hoarder...I would collect all sorts of discarded material to make things with...junk inner tubes are very useful!
Cheers
Helen

I might be wrong (usually am) but I think that silicon sealant might actually encourage rust if it has already started .It is the acetic acid in some versions which apparently does the damage. There are other automotive sealants which might be better
I would use Hammerite 'smooth' after treating with jenolite or similar then ,after leaving for a week to cure, fit a bit of flat thin rubber cut into a gasket

http://www.frost.co.uk/result_search.asp

i find por15 product exellent but pricey

i use it on restoring old vw splitscreen campers

Some of the paint is resistant to everything and bet painted on in damp rainyday conditions !!!

have a read through their site

Dave. wrote:http://www.frost.co.uk/result_search.asp

i find por15 product exellent but pricey

i use it on restoring old vw splitscreen campers

Some of the paint is resistant to everything and bet painted on in damp rainyday conditions !!!

have a read through their site

You can't come on here and use the ** word

don't use silicone sealant, acetic acid will eat any bare metal it finds.........and it will seep out over years. Use a proper automotive sealant such as tiger seal or Silkaflex (various grades) - PU not silicone. Used both on my T25 VW and it's commonly used on all sorts of motors. Available at a motor factors.

dandemann8 wrote:

Dave. wrote:http://www.frost.co.uk/result_search.asp

i find por15 product exellent but pricey

i use it on restoring old vw splitscreen campers

Some of the paint is resistant to everything and bet painted on in damp rainyday conditions !!!

have a read through their site

You can't come on here and use the ** word

Pass ??????????????????? confuseddotcom

Just had a thought - a mouse mat is made of foam rubber and I could cut out the perfect shape of the replacement foam-rubber gaskets from that. It should do the trick and I have four or five on the bookshelf gathering dust

Dave - my guess, was that they were just trying to be "funny" for using the VW word on a Bongo forum........some people