Bongo Fury

The question often arises....I have fitted a Leisure Battery and swopped some of the electrical functions across to this battery......i.e. ciggy socket, blinds, radio etc.

Now I need to find Ignition switched live feed for My latest addition..I-alert/LCA or whatever.

This cannot be determined without having the vehicle to hand as they could all be differant.

One way of finding a Ignition switched live will involve a PIN and a Multi Meter (about a fiver off ebay)

Start at the back of the fusebox (by drivers right knee) and unscrew it untill you can get to all the wires at the back......carefully working your way through the wires.....stick the pin through a wire .....connect the multimeter (on "probably" 20 volts setting) to the pin and earth....if there is no reading, switch on the Ignition and if the meter now shows between 12/13 volts you have found your feed wire.

If the meter reads 12/13 volts with the Ignition off...forget it.

When you have found your live feed wire tap into it but ensure it either has passed through a fuse or put a 3amp inline fuse into the wire to your alarm etc.

Be careful you don't "short" out the PIN to earth and before you actually start connecting your new wiring, disconnect your main and L battries,

Hope this is of some help to some of the less techie folk out there.

This one is very unlikely to be switched over to a L/B and is the same on all versions as far as I know;

Am i missing something here Haydn?
When i fitted my LB i pulled fuses for Lighter, Radio, blinds and what not and fitted the lives from the LB to one side of the fuse holder to feed those circuits.
I then fitted my LCA and TM2 to the other side of these holders to give me a switched live.

there are 2 types of switched live feed, 1 drops out during cranking,so which is the preferred type?
Julian

Didn't know that....I don't suppose it is important to the temp gauge but if there is a choice then one that dosn't "drop out" would be best

During cranking the voltage is likely to drop badly and also to have the highest back emf's floating around after it switches out this is the IG1 circuit, the IG2 & ACC is switched OFF during cranking and is probably the preferred circuit, but the alarm will self test twice however ....