Bongo Fury

Does anyone know how to access the bits and pieces under the driver's side electric window buttons? The button controlling the passenger side window has got stuck/wedged somehow and no longer works. This is also preventing the button on the actual passenger side, from working too.
I didn't want to force the plastic casing off and end up breaking it, if there is a specific way of taking it off?

Thank you in advance, for any suggestions....

sure you haven't just knocked the lock button under the switch?
that disables the passenger switches

There's a clip (that breaks quite easily, but is easily heath robinson repaired) under the front edge of the switch, slide something in to push it back carefully (front to back) & the switch should lift up from the front.

The panel is held in at the front and back only, not the sides.

Lever it up from the rear only as there is a spring there.

Dont lever the front as there is a plastic retaining lip there which will break off. When replacing it, the front end is positioned first and then the rear end sprung back in.

I expect you have ruled out the override switch being in the child proof position.


Frank

Ahhh,

Kirsty and I would appear to be at variance over which end to lift but I only just went to look as mine is currently left not pushed back home in anticipation of further repair work.

Frank

Yeah the broken clip sounds about right, as the button seems to be stuck in the down position and won't ''pull'' back up.
Thanks for your replies, I'll have a go at it next weekend

The broken clip won't have any effect on the switch itself, that just holds the whole switch in place. I think Diplomat's ideao fo attacking from behind, may be the right one, long time since I've played with a window switch, sure Jaylee'll be along to confirm, or try a search, loads of threads about window switches. Pretty sure you can easily bypass the rear switch that controls the passy side.

bongomac wrote:Yeah the broken clip sounds about right, as the button seems to be stuck in the down position and won't ''pull'' back up.
Thanks for your replies, I'll have a go at it next weekend

I think they are talking about the clip that holds th whole mounting unit for the switches in position in the door lining.

I had one of my switches go like yours - that will be the internal switch pivot mechanism. Not sure you can repair that but the first things is to get teh whole unit out and then you can strip down the switch block to investigate (do it whilst holding it inside a bucket as there are ball bearings and springs that may fly out and get lost. I reckon thought that you might want to treat yourself to a new switch unit (or possibly a 2nd hand one from a breakers or off ebay). Not especially cheap but should sort the problem.

Frank beat me tuit!

If the switch is faulty it won't be anything to do with that front clip breaking.

It is highly likely to be a crack in the axle (if that is the right description) on the switch lever. It's like a circular plastic bearing.

The real switch is a slider below and has to be in 'neutral' for the passengers own switch to work (the two switches 'talk' to each other). A plastic lever transfers the rocker motion to the slider and if the bearing/axle cracks the lever will jump out of it's seating and displace the neutral position of the slider.


Frank

We are really chasing each other around on this one!

I have a theory about this common fault.

Has anyone else noticed that it is always the passenger switch that breaks?

I think that what probably happens is that when nothing happens because the override has been inadvertantly locked on, a previous owner has tried brute force - particularly in the upwards mode - and this has encouraged the fracture of the pivot (that's the word I was looking for, Mike).


Frank

My passy switch was fine (other than needing a bloody good clean, was the drivers side was gone, as were the couple that I've replaced/fixed for peeps since if I remeber right

missfixit70 wrote:My passy switch was fine (other than needing a bloody good clean, was the drivers side was gone, as were the couple that I've replaced/fixed for peeps since if I remeber right

That's my theory down the pan, but I do seem to think that the passenger switch gets mentioned mainly.


Frank

I have a theory that the Jap drivers fiddle impatiently with things whilst in traffic jams, and given their generally stressed lives. Sometimes they take it out on the steering wheel, using it as a sort of stress ball, exerting a twisting stress on the steering wheel rim: result, the rim padding debonds from the core. Or else they pull at the window switch impatiently: result, pivot fractures

Or fractured wires in the loom cause the window not to work therefore more force applied to switch thus breaking switch in addition to fractured loom between door & body?