Bongo Fury

Help Guys & Gals, have just done a more indepth under the bonnet check on Bongo purchased from a private seller a week ago, the expansion bottle level was just below minimum so removed the air intake gubbings that covers the top of the radiator to investigate for leaks, oh dear, water is escaping where the domed plastic top part of the rad with the filler cap meets with the metal top of the rad and looks like it`s clipped on???Have cleaned and dried around the area but what to do ??? can the leaks be sealed or is it a new radiator job. if it can be sealed whats best to use.

Have filled the expansion bottle to the max level but have not had an opportunity to road test again to see how quickly the bottle empties.

New rad im afraid

Anyone have idea how much a new rad will cost and where to buy one at a reasonable price, is replacing a DIY job or do you need specialised tools, is commissioning easy and how, I do not have access to ramps, or pit so it would have to be done on my drive.

can all be done from the top, requires 10mm and 12mm, and some big pliers grips, you have to swap over the fans/oil cooler pipes onto the new unit, easily done on the floor/bench, fitting isnt that hard but bleeding can be! a tip to help is to use a hose clamp on the lower rad pipe, this virtually eliminates the need to bleed the system after the rad is fitted, and remove the air intake pipe (10mm bolt) and pull off the oil cooler pipes at the inner wing, prevents a lot of spillage!
Prices vary,but average unit costs around the £100 mark, lots listed on ebay
Julian

Thanks Julian, still considering whether to attempt the job myself and will post the results.

Regards Bob

You should be able to get yourself out of immediate trouble and be driveable until a replacement job is feasible by thoroughly degreasing the plastic to metal seam and applying two mix epoxy.

Do this while the rad is cooling and using slow setting epoxy it should partly suck into the join as the vacuum increases.

If there was still some coolant in the header and the heater still gives heat you might have been lucky on the air lock/bleeding front.

This suggestion issued after personal success but without warranty!

Tip: Use clear epoxy which will allow better visual warning of new leaks and, of course, have a low coolant alarm.


Frank

i would suggest that you change your stat if its not been done, as something is making the system run over pressure, is it leaking at the top hose into rad end ??.

Thanks Frank, think the leak is too serious for your poxy method (sorry) the water leak between the plastic & metal seam is always present even though have degreased and dried, even when vehicle is unused for a couple of days the water in the header reduces as witnessed by a damp patch on the drive.
The header was at the minimum level when I noticed it I topped it up to maximum and have just done 20 miles to see what happens the level in the header, it has reduced and water is all around the joint between the plastic & metal seam again. As I do not need to use the vehicle at present am budgeting for a replacement rad, noticed one on ebay £100.00 guaranteed for 1 year advertised by autojap spares anyone have feedback as to quality and longlevity of product?

Now regarding the possibility of airlock/bleeding, after the 20 mile journey I also checked the bottom rad hoses for hotness, there are 2 hoses to the bottom left of the rad, the top one has a red paint spot & the lower one a yellow paint spot are these the hoses to check , both were cold, however the header tank & large diameter top hose from/to the rad were hot,did not check if heater was giving out any heat. As replacement rad is going to be fitted would it be ok to drive vehicle 3 miles to my local garage the only problem then is bleeding the system, this garage has never seen a BONGO therefore he nor I have experienced the bleeding method, however have viewed the Youtube video and can only give it a go, have also printed off the fact sheet for rad replacement, any more tips/advice before ploughing on would be appreciated. Regards Bob

Bob, actually taking the old rad out and replacing with a new one is a very quick and painless job (2 hours tops... with a tea break), just remember the old rad comes out without the need to remove the fans just unclick the wiring at the connectors and then when the rad is out transfer the fans etc.
It is only the bleeding which you must ensure you do very well and there is certainly loads of info on that if you are uncertain put a shout out and hopefully someone local to you could assist
allow around 3 hours in total with the bleeding process.







P.S Also everything Julian said earlier is correct

Ok guys youv`e convinced me to have a go at the rad change possibly ina couple of weeks time but if there is anyone local`ish in the Leicestershire area would appreciate help with the BLEEDING thingy.
Regards Bob

I replaced my rad about 18 months ago - simples. As for the bleeding just follow the instructions "TO THE LETTER" If you want to, send me a pm with your phone number and I will ring you.

Ian G

Hi Ian, appreciate your offer to advise and have sent a PM with comtact details, would welcome further info whether its best to use an OEM or after market Radiator, the OEM rad is £265 the aftermarket one on ebay is only £100 is it false economy to use this?

Regards Bob

Mikexgough is the one to ask. I got one from his nod, its a good 'un & not too dear.

Radiator update, my thanks to Ian G for travelling down from mansfield to assist/advise in the rad replacement & Bongo Bleeding, as has been said its `easy peasy`:- the bleeding ain`t. What a performance! don`t know if I have a lazy thermostat but could not get the bottom rad hose hot, front & rear heaters ok no obvious coolant leaks, road tested but hose still cold, although followed Youtube & fact sheet instructions still no joy.Next day decided to have another attempt at the bleeding thing!!!!

45 minutes after starting engine the thermosat at last openend, see sawed the funnel, bubbles coming out but after an hour bubbles still coming out so gave up & put the bleed hose bung back, seems to run ok, temp gauge at normal position, heaters seem ok & bottom hose hot,no coolant loss from the header tank, but worried about posts regarding temp gauge innacuracy & danger of cylinder head damage, any further advise would be welcome as I am reluctant to use the vehicle after missfixit`s warnings.

When you were seesawing, did you ensure the levels in the funnel & header tank did not drop out the bottom?
Did you replace the stat?
I'd pressure test the coolant system, to see if it's holding pressure.
If you haven't got any other temperature or level monitoring, I'd at least modify the temp gauge to be more accurate, either by doing the cheap mod linked to on the coolant alarms fact sheet, or fitting a Mason alarm. You can get cheap digital temp monitors to monitor the temp of the top hose coming out of the engine - http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... h=651753c7 or go for the TM2 with alarms & preferably the low coolant alarm built in (or on its own).