Page 1 of 1

Removing the EGR System

Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 2:35 pm
by Mark Norton
It's been generally agreed that the Diesel Bongo runs better with the EGR Blanked off.

As I have all the engine covers off at the moment, I intend to try to remove all the EGR system, what's the point in leaving it all there blanked off never to be used?

I have chopped off the EGR tube directly where it leaves the exhaust manifold and fitted a 22mm compression plumbing blank.
I'm in the process of removing the big EGR valve, but in doing so it would seem that the first two solonid switches with the vacume pipes would then be redundant. Can I remove these two switches and just plug the end of the remaining vacume pipes?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 4:11 am
by Northern Bongolow
by the first two do you mean the two towards the rear of the head??.
the vac to work these enters from the front of the head via the two cold start solenoids, then onto the egr solenoids, i think but dont know for sure that you could just bypass the rear two (egr) and connect into the inlet manifold via the little green one way valve to complete the vac circuit.

what 22mm fitting did you use, i bought a brass one with the view to doing mine but thought the brass may not hold with the high exhaust gas temps, any thoughts.

maybe worth thinking about taking the crank case/rocker cover breather off as it goes into the air inlet pipe at the rear of the head, this will stop all the egr muck they are always talking about as this hot air/oil vapour could go to atmosphere like the old minis used to do on a long drip pipe to the floor(again fresh air into the manifold). wont win any eco prizes though, and the mot man may not like it #-o .

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 4:48 am
by helen&tony
Hi
Some folks had tried interposing a couple of old coins between the EGR pipeflanges with dire results a few years back...broke up under the heat with added consequences :shock:
Cheers
Helen

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 4:07 pm
by Mark Norton
Yes it's the two towards the rear of the head I will try to bypass.

I'll try out a standard brass 22mm plumbing blank. I've cranked it on good and hard to really compress the olive, it looks neat as I cut the EGR pipe at the exit point close to the manifold before it bends off to go round the rear of the head. I will have to see if the 22mm blank holds. A big 30mm? bolt would be ideal to use as a plug, but I wouldn't know where to get one from.

I like the idea of taking off the crank case/rocker cover breather off, I might try running it to a small catch tank.

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:29 pm
by rustyp
I had my egr pipe cut off with an inch or so remaining then it was squashed and then welded across, need to remove the manifold though. I just removed the entire fast idle/egr setup and blanked the vacuum pipe than runs to it. When engine is cold I use my right foot to0 allow it to idle a little faster :D

Russ

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 10:20 pm
by Northern Bongolow
Mark Norton wrote:Yes it's the two towards the rear of the head I will try to bypass.

I'll try out a standard brass 22mm plumbing blank. I've cranked it on good and hard to really compress the olive, it looks neat as I cut the EGR pipe at the exit point close to the manifold before it bends off to go round the rear of the head. I will have to see if the 22mm blank holds. A big 30mm? bolt would be ideal to use as a plug, but I wouldn't know where to get one from.

I like the idea of taking off the crank case/rocker cover breather off, I might try running it to a small catch tank.
i am trying to source a cast iron 22mm steam pipe fitting, then im going to remove the same as you. i was going to fill the endcap of the fitting with exhaust building paste just to protect the fitting from dirrect heat.
the fast idle solenoids also control the aircon up revs, if its working, but there is no reason why your foot cannot do the job just as well. :wink:

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 11:18 pm
by rustyp
Strangely the brakes worked better when I removed the idle control and blanked the vacuum pipe as the 1 way check valve to the intake pipe was fitted the wrong way round from the garage that rebuilt my engine! The vacuum pipe is part of the circuit to provide vacuum for the servo! These one way check valves are prone to failing on bongos!

My right foot is far better at idle control than standard!

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 2:16 am
by Northern Bongolow
another little nugget of good info =D> =D> , never really had cause to look at the entire vac system, just the cold start side of things, but it makes sense its connected to the servo so if you have a fault there in the system it could affect brake performance/effort.
a few peeps have come on here with the little green one way valve broken off.
good to tie it all together and understand how it all works. =D> =D> =D>

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:50 am
by triathlondave
after seeing the post about coins failing!!! :shock:

I remembered seeing that someone has sourced a suitable part.

http://www.allansvehicleservices.co.uk/57380.html

"as always, I have no connection with Alan, just letting you know about the parts"

Here are some of the parts I sell. Email or ring for price. If you want a part that's not listed below, please ask!

MAZDA BONGO, FORD FREDA, EGR BLANKING PLATES: You can order and pay at the same time by PayPal. (Or email or phone). Paypal payment should be sent to [email protected] Please let me know how many plates you want, and whether they're for the for the older or newer shape Bongo.

Hope this helps, Personally I will sort mine when the exhaust goes and I need to change the lot.

best wishes
david

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:18 pm
by rustyp
Taking things a bit further from removing the entire EGR system I am looking to get some thermal gaskets made up for the inlet manifold to lessen the transfer of heat from the cylinder head to the inlet manifold helping to keep the air going into the engine cooler and therefore denser, therefore containing more oxygen.

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:51 pm
by helen&tony
Hi David
I used Allans blanking plates...a breeze to fit, and a marked improvement all round.
Cheers
Helen

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:40 pm
by Mark Norton
That would be great if you could find that 22mm steam blank, as well as the thermal gasket. Please post on the forum the suppliers if you have any luck!


I've managed to break the little green one way return valve, but rather than glue it back together could I not use an aquarium air pump non return valve in its place? They are only about a pound each to buy.

Also as I have removed the two ERG solonoids, but kept the fast idle solonoids should I connect to a one way air valve or just plug the end of the vacume pipe?

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 7:36 pm
by rustyp
Aquarium valve sounds good idea, make sure it is the right way round. Vacuum from the intake will help add more vacuum so could potentially help add more vacuum to the brake servo! It might not make any noticeable difference.

Thermal gaskets I am looking into having a batch made up by cnc :D

Russ

Re: Removing the EGR System

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 7:50 pm
by Northern Bongolow
i would keep the one way valve in place as this will stop the neg pressure created in the inlet manifold pipe from sucking hard on the solenoid valves (maybe). if you have a broken one they are on most egr controlled mazda's both petrols and diesels, and pajero's etc (scrap yard job). dont use a fish tank one it wont last as they are not heat resistant :shock: :wink: .