Bongo Fury

Can anybody give me any tips and advice on replacing the temperature sender.

Location would be most helpful?

Lets up the anti on this.. Searched high and low for days on the subject of the temperature gauge and the sender.. No info on location. No reference in the repair manual section on the coolant system I downloaded. I despair. No info in the clinic, no mention on the fact sheets...

My problem is that my temp gauage works some days and not others. Its been like this for months. Somebody must know where it is? So I can check the contacts and replace the unit if required. Recently had to replace a coolant pipe so the added reasurance of the temp guage would be nice to allow me to enjoy the Bongo driving experience.

Please help, ?10 donation to charity of choice of the person who provide idiots guide to location.

Here you go, under the driver?s seat right hand side at the end of the water hose.
When you unscrew the old one water will come out so if you have the new one to hand you will only loose a small amount.
Hope you find this information helpful.
Oh and my mother always said charity begins at home. So you could send Ian ?10 to cover my next year?s subscription fee.



Here is the part no. if you go to your local motorfactors. Will cost about ?5.00.

Well I don't think you could hope for a much better answer than that!

Looking at the location, I'd say that changing this would not involve any system draining/refilling/bleeding - just a simple disconnect, unscrew, screw in replacement (bit of copper grease on thread?) and re-connect. Would this be correct Taxiback?

And just to be clear here - we are talking about the sender that works the temperature gauge aren't we (rather than one of the various thermo-switches)?

tigger

tigger wrote:Well I don't think you could hope for a much better answer than that!

Looking at the location, I'd say that changing this would not involve any system draining/refilling/bleeding - just a simple disconnect, unscrew, screw in replacement (bit of copper grease on thread?) and re-connect. Would this be correct Taxiback?

And just to be clear here - we are talking about the sender that works the temperature gauge aren't we (rather than one of the various thermo-switches)?

tigger

Yes on both counts tigger.

Thanks, really appreciated.

Do you have a charity of preference?

Can we get this added to the members facts sheets and the clinic. I'm sure this must be a common problem that either temp sender is faulty or the contacts become dirty and the temp gauge stops working.

I had the same problem with my temp sensor, and it turned out to be a loose connection between the sensor and the cable connector. I managed to bend mine into a position where the connection was maintained and it's been fine for several months now.

Nearly a happy man now, temp sender sorted, cleaned contacts on the sender during lunch break and the temperature gauge now works a treat.

Just got to renew the front drop links, stop the clunking and I might have a smile on my face, once my knuckles heal from my attempts at freeing up the nuts on the drop links, tonights job if time permits.

jammar wrote:Nearly a happy man now, temp sender sorted, cleaned contacts on the sender during lunch break and the temperature gauge now works a treat.

Just got to renew the front drop links, stop the clunking and I might have a smile on my face, once my knuckles heal from my attempts at freeing up the nuts on the drop links, tonights job if time permits.

On the Mazda drop links you have a nut either side of the mounting point you will need 2 spanners to do the job.

Just spend 3 hours on the drop links and only done one, the other one is fine and can wait a week or two.

2 hrs 58 minutes removing drop link, 2 minutes fitting new one.

Tips for doing the job with much hindsight. Don't rush it. Buy a big can of WD40 and give the the nuts a good squirt every day for a week.

You will need a 17mm socket, but it needs to be a deep one, standard won't fit because of length of bolt and a 19mm spanner for the rear of the drop link to stop it turning. A long extension for the socket and a torque rench with long handle because the bugger is going to be well rusted on and you will need the leverage. If you can't get it lose after a few tries, try a blow tourch to heat the nut up which can sometimes free it up. Be carfeful though. The biggest pain is you havent really got access to grind the nuts of if the worst comes to the worst. I will be investing in a few nut splitters in the near future... I ended up drilling the bolt out on the top of the drop link after I rounded the nut. Bottom was okay, stiff but I got it moving. You really need a set of ramps to do the bottom nut to get the leverage from underneath, this can be done with wheel on. You will need to remove wheel for top nut and fitting new drop link.

Long and short of it is no more clunking and I am a happy man, but if I had a decent old fashioned garage nearby that I could trust, I would be tempted to save my knuckles and get them to fit it.

Another tip, don't do the job the night before ou go on holiday... Saves a lot of ear ache from the wife. Not sure if the knuckles or the ears hurt most.. At least I can go over speed bumps without the dreaded clonk...

Have you tried using "Plus Gas" for this type of job rather than WD40? I found it much more effective at freeing up particularly stubborn nuts and bolts.

I had real trouble removing one of the nuts to replace the rear anti -roll bush - rounded off the nut using an open ended spanner because I was too lazy to take the wheel off and take off the anti-roll bar so i could use a socket.

Eventualy got it off - I used a freeze spray which seemed to make a difference.

Moral of the story - use the proper tool for the job and move stuff to get access