Bongo Fury

Hi folks,
I've bought a 750ml pack of Slick 50 to put in my oil (another Torchwood recommendation to help the mpg), but I don't have tools or time to drain 750ml of the existing oil out of the sump before doing this. Will it cause any issues to overfill the oil by 750ml overall? The oil is only a month old so I don't really want to wait until the next change before adding the Slick 50.

Many thanks,
Jamie

I guess it depends where the level currently is on the dispstick. If close to the bottom you may be ok, but otherwise you will be overfilling by more than 10% of the correct capacity may cause issues with excess pressure in the crankcase which could put strain on oil seals. Personally, I wouldn't do it.

Jamie, might be of some interest to you...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOTWlJUrdtw

If you are stuck you could unscrew the oil filter and let it drain, refit the filter once drained and then put in your additive .

Hmm, okay - thanks guys, I'll see if I can drain some oil first then.

Cheers,
Jamie

Now if you had a Fumoto drain valve... http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/ it's all made quick and easy to change the oil plus if you overfilled by accident or like yourself add Slick 50 etc.... you can use the tap to drop some out...
I find it easier than a Pela and "cleaner" too... see the videos... I have a plain tap but you can get them will nozzles and plastic pipe...a locking device is also available if you feel you need it but the Bongo's belly cover negates the need IMHO
I fit these to many Classics and also the Corsa/Astra and the Ford Fiesta/Focus as well as PSA cars... no messing with rounded Torx etc sump plugs and no messing with sump plug washers... worth every penny

Then again why not save your money?

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/?t=3250


And then......................

And so to engine additives

Your engine is designed to be lubricated by oil, formulated by big petro companies and full of additives that perform anti-wear, heat transfer, lubrication and detergent functions. That doesn't stop dozens of companies formulating extra additives and selling them as pour-in-the-engine and pour-in-the-tank solutions for problems you may or may not have. In the bad old days, these were known as snake oil - back when putting Teflon® in your engine seemed like a good idea. (Here's a famous old snakeoil article.)
In my opinion (and that doesn't mean I'm right) a large number of additives are placebos to put minds at rest. It's not often you'll find properly independent lab analysis of the products that will support their claims.
I have a page dedicated to this topic that covers, primarily, the endless lawsuits for false advertising against many manufacturers. Does this mean the product didn't work at all, or it didn't work as the advertising had promised? Hard to tell but head over to my additives page if you're interested.

from
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bibl ... #additives

Which refers to this.............

http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html

I used to be taken in by the hype, but not now.

Hi
I used Slick 50 once ...merely on the word of a friend who had a car-hire fleet...and that was in the 60's ? 70's when it first appeared....I only got conned once....
You fairly often find that Slick 50 is slurped into the sump by those folk who use "Mad Mickey's Motor Muck" as engine oil because it's cheap, but , frankly, good REGULAR servicing and quality oil is all you need....Before Slick 50 came onto the market, people used Molyslip, or Molybdenum Disulphide powder...same thing applies, and a lot of these bottled potions leave quite a sludge on the bottom of the sump...
Cheers
Helen

mikexgough wrote:Now if you had a Fumoto drain valve... http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/ it's all made quick and easy to change the oil plus if you overfilled by accident or like yourself add Slick 50 etc.... you can use the tap to drop some out...
I find it easier than a Pela and "cleaner" too... see the videos... I have a plain tap but you can get them will nozzles and plastic pipe...a locking device is also available if you feel you need it but the Bongo's belly cover negates the need IMHO
I fit these to many Classics and also the Corsa/Astra and the Ford Fiesta/Focus as well as PSA cars... no messing with rounded Torx etc sump plugs and no messing with sump plug washers... worth every penny

HI, can you post a link to your Classic Car Business. I have a few associates that might be interested in doing some trade with You.

Also some Media Interest.

so much as I would like to..... Advertising on the forum is not allowed... Plus I maybe moving soon ... and I sometimes contribute to Classic publications when asked

rita wrote:Jamie, might be of some interest to you...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOTWlJUrdtw

The problem I see with this comparison is the critical bits of an engine are fed oil under pressure, the demo is just splashed on like in a gear box so I wouldn't expect a normal engine oil to work.
From memory when we did oils at college the stuff you add after manufacture simply ends up in the fltters and adds little to the vehicles performance.
Why do no manufacturers recommend them?

winchman wrote:

rita wrote:Jamie, might be of some interest to you...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOTWlJUrdtw

The problem I see with this comparison is the critical bits of an engine are fed oil under pressure, the demo is just splashed on like in a gear box so I wouldn't expect a normal engine oil to work.From memory when we did oils at college the stuff you add after manufacture simply ends up in the fltters and adds little to the vehicles performance.
Why do no manufacturers recommend them?

The reason oil is pressurised is the fact that it needs to be PUMPED from the sump through the filters through the piston cooling jets onto the bearing surfaces. The end result is just the same, oil where it is needed at a time when it is needed. The cylinder bores etc are splash lubricated to a certain extent.

Just a bit of useless information.

Hi
More useless information: So are the gudgeon pins / small ends / cam followers...etc. etc.
Cheers
Helen

helen&tony wrote:Hi
More useless information: So are the gudgeon pins / small ends / cam followers...etc. etc.
Cheers
Helen

Aye, and don't forget the Balance Shafts/bearings.

When the oil is pumped it fills any gaps between precision surfaces as it cant just flow out again (leakage rate) as easily the result is pressure forming in the pump outlet, this pressurised film of oil works like a bearing surface to form a very thin layer of lubricant to stop the metal surfaces touching.
If you think about the big end bearings in a car engine once they wear the oil is forced out of them too easily hence the drop in oil pressure which then stops the oil film forming as it should and the engine fails
The Gudgon pin in the piston is the same.
Some Early Turbo Chargers relied on this pressurised film of oil to lubricate the turbo shaft at high speed, if you turned the engine off as soon as you stopped with the turbo still spinning fast the oil pressure would drop and the turbo shaft would have no oil bearing and no cooling and wear out very quickly, early Saab turbos are prone to this.
If you look at a small motor bike engine that uses a roller bearing in the big end then thats different it relies on splash lubrication as do gears in a gear box

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f2fcbTh5yw