Bongo Fury

Could do with some help please, hoping for a simple fix!
2 problems - first is the heater, came home from the garage 2 weeks ago, didn't use the heater. No heat on next 2 journeys, 12 miles each. Then seemed to work again giving good heat, longer journeys (30 miles or so at a time through one day). Then today no heat on a 12ish mile journey, there or back.
Checked coolant first thing when I noticed the problem, possibly very slightly low so topped up, now definitely plenty but still no heat. My experience of no heat = loss of coolant/airlock so a bit paranoid - are there any other causes of heat loss that would be intermittent? How could an airlock occur if it hasn't been low or drained recently? (There is a slight possibility it was drained and refilled when it had the crossmember welded, checking tomorrow but unlikely given the timescale of the repair and no mention of it).

Second problem - since coming home some of the electrics seem to be running on half current. Blinds are half speed, internal lights are dim (front) or not working (rear, was dodgy before but now nothing), haven't tried fridge or webasto and roof is fine. No change with ignition/engine running. But the doors warning light glows very pale when the key is inserted, goes bright as normal with an open door but maintains a halflight the rest of the time. Slightly variable, sometimes so faint it's almost gone, sometimes so bright I have to check that a door isn't open.

We have checked connections on both batteries as fiance thought maybe a bad earth. He has wiggled every connection he can find under the bonnet. He has cleaned the connections in the sliding door. Nothing makes any difference. He is concerned that when the welding was done one of the batteries wasn't disconnected properly and it has affected a relay somewhere - am phoning tomorrow to find out but welder was recommended by my excellent garage, surely they wouldn't miss tat there are 2 batteries to disconnect?

Any thoughts?
Garage work was MOT stuff - new front drop links, new wheel hub for ABS sensor and welding of crossmember. Lights etc were fine before it went, but it was there over a week due to waiting for parts etc - but it often goes over a week without moving so I can't see that being a problem. Oh, and it's a 2.5 diesel if that is relevant.

Anyone?

Poor heating is normally down to problems with the engine coolant and air locks either in the engine or heating matrix, which engine type are you (always need to tell as there are differences!) ? Ah just re-read and its at the end, suggests to me that for some reason, like taking the radiator off they have refilled the coolant and not bled the engine - this can be disastrous is the garage Bongo savvy ? Garages with no expereince of the coolant system are to be avoided when coolant is involved!

As to electrics really not much to go on, sounds like you battery maybe discharged and needs a good charge, perhaps ?

Owing to the fact that you are only getting "heat" after long journeys I would have a wee look at the thermostat. Also worth checking the drive belts.

Thanks.
Just spoke to the welder and he didn't touch the coolant system, and the main garage had no reason to either (waiting to speak to them) so how can it get an airlock suddenly? What am I missing? My garage are used to my van and always follow the printouts I give them from the website anyway for anything unusual, they are pretty good, old style family garage.
How do I check the thermostat? (Fiance might know this but I'll ask just in case!) And how do the drive belts affect the heater?
Everything seems to point to a bad earth with the electrics but we have removed, cleaned and replaced connections to both batteries etc - where else could a bad earth occur? Welder guy has just confirmed that he did disconnect both batteries when he welded so that's ok.

Problem is I've got a long journey to do on Friday, 330miles down and back on Monday, anxious about the coolant system :-/

Have you checked both earth straps to chassis, one from engine other from gearbox?

Belts mentioned because a pair drive the alternator and water pump. Check under passy seat, front of engine.

With the bongo warmed up are both heater hoses hot to front and rear heaters? Rear ones underneath behind driver. Front ones are passy side of centre of bulkhead. Also check that fat hose going into the bottom of the radiator gets hot.
As you probably know, whilst there is any doubt about cooling system, best not drive it.

Thermostat is on passenger side. Fiddly to get to especially on 4WD and will launch you into the bleeding process when refilling coolant. There's a fact sheet in members area. Hard to see how welding affected it but they do fail.

For electrics, do you have a voltmeter to check that you are getting a decent voltage when running?

new leaks especially after a period of standing (without pressure) could point to a water pump failure, heres a link to show you where they leak and how to spot it.

http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... mp#p572203

if the garage removed both batteries to do the job, then the leisure went flatish whilst off, when reconnected the alternator can try to put too much charge into the leisure battery, this can blow one of the fuses at the side of the leisure batt, there should be one at the starter battery end and one at the leisure batt end, if one is blown, best advice is to replace the other as it may be weakened, it may give you the symptoms you are seeing, or as in the first scenario one or both batts discharged a bit, then when reconnected the alternator had to work very hard to recharge them, this can strain the diodes inside the alternator, maybe suggest the garage test the output from the alternator is good at various revs from low to high, this also sounds like your symptoms.

would not advise your trip till its sorted on the coolant side.

Not checked these that I am aware of but will pass on the info - we will run through everything tomorrow. He has a voltmeter. Thank you!

click on the link ive posted and maybe put it on yer ipad or phone and maybe show the garage the pic of the leaking water pump, its hard to spot when its fitted.

Fiance is doing it rather than garage - he does most of the work on it now, the garage just had it due to failing MOT and a job he couldn't do without a lift. Have passed on all this info and we will work through it tomorrow evening - fingers crossed. If all the hoses are hot (I don't have a rear heater so eliminates some of them) and it is a thermostat issue is that still dodgy to drive?

dollyanna2 wrote:Fiance is doing it rather than garage - he does most of the work on it now, the garage just had it due to failing MOT and a job he couldn't do without a lift. Have passed on all this info and we will work through it tomorrow evening - fingers crossed. If all the hoses are hot (I don't have a rear heater so eliminates some of them) and it is a thermostat issue is that still dodgy to drive?

If the thermostat isn't opening reliably, don't drive. If stuck open and engine just not warming up properly then ok

Ok, booked in tomorrow for new thermostat and coolant change which should hopefully sort the problem - fairly sure the stat is stuck open.
Cleaned an earth we missed the other day and charged the leisure battery a little and electrics magically fixed - didn't last long but only had 15mins of charging. Charged for 2 hours or so and all sorted again. Now charging it fully to see if it holds, not sure why it had completely discharged but at least know it is the battery causing the issue. If it drains then will try a new one, if it's still draining then will need to look further.
With a little bit of luck and a good garage (bongo garages are scarce but I have a good guy) we should be set safely for the journey south in time
Thank you for everyone's help, much appreciated - not been on the forum for a few years (long enough that my old login is no more) but it's nice to be here again and access the expertise. Now that I have my very own personal mechanic/engineer we might be here more as he gets to know Laureate better, he's very fond of her but not fond of the coolant system! He has done a smashing job of replacing wheel arches and sills both sides for me though

You will need a MUCH longer charging time to fully charge a battery if it was that low to start with, normally 24 hours for a good charger with 8+ Amps rating and ideally 48 hours. If you only have the little maintenance chargers rated at 4 Amps or less then a LOT longer is needed as they are really only intended to top a battery up and keep it floating if not used for long periods.

Yes I know, that was the only time we had available to test the theory, it will be fully charged at the earliest opportunity (tonight).