Member in Distress in France
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- Northern Bongolow
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 7713
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:33 pm
- Location: AKA Vanessa
Re: Member in Distress in France
did you clean the turbo out. sometimes even when you have cleaned the egr the switch can have gone faulty.
have you removed the battery in an effort to reset /clear the codes stored.
have you removed the battery in an effort to reset /clear the codes stored.
Re: Member in Distress in France
Hi, Thanks again for the continued support.
After cleaning the EGR I didn't clean the turbo (not sure how to do that) - any guidance and tips would be gratefully received. I'm ready for my next stage of mechanics
I followed the guidance of disconnecting the battery negative terminals and depressing the brake for 20 seconds, reconnecting then, starting and running at 2000 rpm for 3 mins.
I went for a drive today and the flashing light came on after about 20 mins. I pulled over and took a break for 10 mins, and the flashing light had reset itself. About 30 mins later all was OK, I pulled over, idling for a few minutes... funny enough the scavenger fan kicked in and then the light started to flash. Again, much later on in the day after a long rest, I set off all was good... no problem driving for 40 mins, arrived back at the camp site, pulled in idled for 3 mins, the scavenger fan had been rotating (just turned off) and the main fans kicked in (so that seems to be working).... THEN, the light started to flash during the scavenger fan turning off and the main cooling fan starting up.
Ian kindly mentioned the wastegate actuator and after reading the factsheet and associated posts it does sound very familiar! I shall take a look at the wastegate actuator and see if there is something going on at the turbo end... I have to say I am going into very new territory here so any "basic tips" welcomed.
Does anyone know any maintenance I can do that doesn't involve new parts as there is nothing local?
A big thank you again... you are all STARS!
After cleaning the EGR I didn't clean the turbo (not sure how to do that) - any guidance and tips would be gratefully received. I'm ready for my next stage of mechanics
I followed the guidance of disconnecting the battery negative terminals and depressing the brake for 20 seconds, reconnecting then, starting and running at 2000 rpm for 3 mins.
I went for a drive today and the flashing light came on after about 20 mins. I pulled over and took a break for 10 mins, and the flashing light had reset itself. About 30 mins later all was OK, I pulled over, idling for a few minutes... funny enough the scavenger fan kicked in and then the light started to flash. Again, much later on in the day after a long rest, I set off all was good... no problem driving for 40 mins, arrived back at the camp site, pulled in idled for 3 mins, the scavenger fan had been rotating (just turned off) and the main fans kicked in (so that seems to be working).... THEN, the light started to flash during the scavenger fan turning off and the main cooling fan starting up.
Ian kindly mentioned the wastegate actuator and after reading the factsheet and associated posts it does sound very familiar! I shall take a look at the wastegate actuator and see if there is something going on at the turbo end... I have to say I am going into very new territory here so any "basic tips" welcomed.
Does anyone know any maintenance I can do that doesn't involve new parts as there is nothing local?
A big thank you again... you are all STARS!
Re: Member in Distress in France
I don't really notice any running problems overall, however, it does struggle on hills... I think the turbo no longer works, although it feels like all gears are used, up and down the range. Once I rest the bongo for a while (switched off), normally around 20 mins, all is well again and the performance is fine. I've even attempted to run the bongo hard up a hill and it performs admirably, until I slow down or stop and the light begins to flash.teenmal wrote:Does the engine have any running problems connected to the "Flashing Light" or is it running as it should.?
Re: Member in Distress in France
I'm going to look at the turbo in the morning - I will be using the fact sheets and any further gleaned info/tips if you have them. Many thanks againNorthern Bongolow wrote:did you clean the turbo out. sometimes even when you have cleaned the egr the switch can have gone faulty.
have you removed the battery in an effort to reset /clear the codes stored.
Re: Member in Distress in France
Thanks, I didn't know that... very useful. Do I need to use a fuseable link wire for C&E or will any wire be ok? Thanks.g8dhe wrote:Have you read out the code from the diagnostic plug? With later versions you only need to put in the link wire and the Glowplug light will flash the error code. The info is on this page http://www.philmcfadden.co.uk/MazdaDiagnosticBox.htm and all you need do is link pins C & E then read the flashing glowplug light - bear in mind that the socket is upside down! That at least will then suggest what is flagging the error up.
- Northern Bongolow
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 7713
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:33 pm
- Location: AKA Vanessa
Re: Member in Distress in France
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html.
if you click on this link and check against your year and vin number you can identify your turbo, they change on the diesel 3 times from 1997 to 2001. if you click on the turbo number on the drawing it highlights in the left margin the part number and on some it gives the vin its fitted to and from.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/
if you click on this link and check against your year and vin number you can identify your turbo, they change on the diesel 3 times from 1997 to 2001. if you click on the turbo number on the drawing it highlights in the left margin the part number and on some it gives the vin its fitted to and from.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/
Re: Member in Distress in France
"....to my horror I have a flashing glow plug light on my year 2000 diesel Bongo. The light flashes one second on, one second off. The light resets itself when I'm travelling on the motorway, but flashes again when I'm in traffic or at low speed. Is my scavenger fan sensor bust?
Owing to the fact that this problem seems to be heat related it could very well be.it would be worthwhile checking and cleaning the connectors on the sensors and wiring.Again it might need a new sensor but worth a try.
Good Luck.
Owing to the fact that this problem seems to be heat related it could very well be.it would be worthwhile checking and cleaning the connectors on the sensors and wiring.Again it might need a new sensor but worth a try.
Good Luck.
Re: Member in Distress in France
Thanks for the guidance... here's today's update lol:
The C&E cross wire diagnostics worked a treat... although they took a while to read as I believe I have three:
P0400 - exhaust EGR system malfunction
P1228 - Wastegate failed to open (under pressure)
P1128 - Fuel shut off solenoid circuit
I'm not too sure how long these errors have been within the system, so, I shall attempt to clear them tomorrow using the remove negative terminal, depress brake for 20 seconds, then re-connect and run at 2000 rpm for 2 mins.
My biggest observation (thanks to this forum) is the wastegate failure. I have taken a video if anyone is interested. I completed the recommendation as described in the Factsheet and Julian's input (321Away) on a previous post. The actuator does move ok when cold, the spring mechanism appears strong, however, when hot it seems to stick (when pulled in, not sure if that is open or closed). After a little massage with pliers when cold and hot, I could visually see the actuator 'rod' sticking. Can anyone offer any tips? Can this be lubricated somehow... at least to get me home to the UK which is 1000km away!
I'm not too sure about the fuel shut off solenoid circuit or where it is? Any ideas if this is linked to the two other codes?
Although I spray cleaned the EGR via the intake pipe, I wonder if I need to give it another blast? Should I remove any pipes to the turbo intake before doing so?
It would be great if anyone has any further top tips/guidance....
Interesting query, re the ecru diagnostics, if I have three error codes, does the bongo continue to repeat them visually via the glow plug indictator. I did record it and gave up after five minutes... and when I turned the ignition off the scavenger fan activated! Is this odd?
Thanks all
The C&E cross wire diagnostics worked a treat... although they took a while to read as I believe I have three:
P0400 - exhaust EGR system malfunction
P1228 - Wastegate failed to open (under pressure)
P1128 - Fuel shut off solenoid circuit
I'm not too sure how long these errors have been within the system, so, I shall attempt to clear them tomorrow using the remove negative terminal, depress brake for 20 seconds, then re-connect and run at 2000 rpm for 2 mins.
My biggest observation (thanks to this forum) is the wastegate failure. I have taken a video if anyone is interested. I completed the recommendation as described in the Factsheet and Julian's input (321Away) on a previous post. The actuator does move ok when cold, the spring mechanism appears strong, however, when hot it seems to stick (when pulled in, not sure if that is open or closed). After a little massage with pliers when cold and hot, I could visually see the actuator 'rod' sticking. Can anyone offer any tips? Can this be lubricated somehow... at least to get me home to the UK which is 1000km away!
I'm not too sure about the fuel shut off solenoid circuit or where it is? Any ideas if this is linked to the two other codes?
Although I spray cleaned the EGR via the intake pipe, I wonder if I need to give it another blast? Should I remove any pipes to the turbo intake before doing so?
It would be great if anyone has any further top tips/guidance....
Interesting query, re the ecru diagnostics, if I have three error codes, does the bongo continue to repeat them visually via the glow plug indictator. I did record it and gave up after five minutes... and when I turned the ignition off the scavenger fan activated! Is this odd?
Thanks all
Re: Member in Distress in France
Thanks Rita! I shall give it a go. Do you know how best to disconnect the terminals as I don't want to pull too hard. Is there a mini clip somewhere?rita wrote:"....to my horror I have a flashing glow plug light on my year 2000 diesel Bongo. The light flashes one second on, one second off. The light resets itself when I'm travelling on the motorway, but flashes again when I'm in traffic or at low speed. Is my scavenger fan sensor bust?
Owing to the fact that this problem seems to be heat related it could very well be.it would be worthwhile checking and cleaning the connectors on the sensors and wiring.Again it might need a new sensor but worth a try.
Good Luck.
Re: Member in Distress in France
Many thanks Norhen Bongolow.... very useful...Northern Bongolow wrote:http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html.
if you click on this link and check against your year and vin number you can identify your turbo, they change on the diesel 3 times from 1997 to 2001. if you click on the turbo number on the drawing it highlights in the left margin the part number and on some it gives the vin its fitted to and from.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/
Re: Member in Distress in France
I have disconnect the air feed/intake into the turbo... not sure of the proper name. The pipe was rather grim and caked with a thin layer of slime so I have cleaned that off. The impeller fans look ok and clean. Can you advise how best to clean the turbo. Does the egr cleaner find its way through to the turbo? Or, is there something else I can do/spray? ThanksNorthern Bongolow wrote:did you clean the turbo out. sometimes even when you have cleaned the egr the switch can have gone faulty.
have you removed the battery in an effort to reset /clear the codes stored.
Re: Member in Distress in France
Thanks Geoff. Very useful link. All done and I've posted a general update as I have three errors, 0400, 1228 and 1182.g8dhe wrote:Have you read out the code from the diagnostic plug? With later versions you only need to put in the link wire and the Glowplug light will flash the error code. The info is on this page http://www.philmcfadden.co.uk/MazdaDiagnosticBox.htm and all you need do is link pins C & E then read the flashing glowplug light - bear in mind that the socket is upside down! That at least will then suggest what is flagging the error up.
Re: Member in Distress in France
Here's the code descriptors
P0400 Exhaust EGR System Malfunction
P1182 Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Circuit
P1228 Wastegate Failed Open (Under pressure)
P0400 Exhaust EGR System Malfunction
P1182 Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Circuit
P1228 Wastegate Failed Open (Under pressure)
668. The Neighbour of The Beast.
Re: Member in Distress in France
Is it safe to drive the Bongo back home? It seems to drive ok, although lacks additional turbo? Im not sure what a non-Bongo specialist can do...Ian wrote:Here's the code descriptors
P0400 Exhaust EGR System Malfunction
P1182 Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Circuit
P1228 Wastegate Failed Open (Under pressure)
- Northern Bongolow
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 7713
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:33 pm
- Location: AKA Vanessa
Re: Member in Distress in France
wastegate failed under pressure.
disconnect the diaphragm operator/lever and see how loose the arm is where it goes into the turbo, ideally test the diaphragm by revving the engine past 2000 -2500 revs to see if it moves the diaphragm /arm then back when the revs drop, or it may work the other way round , you may have to operate the arm on the turbo manually after its been lubricated to get the turbo to boost up to give pressure on the pipes to operate the diaphragm arm. this is to see which bit is sticking/failing. if its the variable vane turbo which i think it is the arm into the turbo may feel free until the temps get really hot like when its been running a while, this is because when hot the vanes stick with carbon build up inside, this is the main reason for blocking the egr valve off, the egr puts dirty exhaust air back into the inlet manifold to be reburnt to clean it up to lower the emissions, in this country its not needed as the emissions are low enough to pass the mot here without it . the only down side is you may see higher engine temps as the burn is better from cleaner air.
egr valves. yours should have 2 on it, they are piped via the lump of extra scrap that is the egr gasses cooler,member on here called briwy ripped the lot off and threw it in the bin. the egr valves have position switches on the top so even if the valves are partly working the switch may not register it so it flags up a fault, another well respected long time bongo owner on here spent nearly a year finding this fault. . but we got there eventually, we stripped the switches out and cleaned em, still not right, replaced em, all good.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... o=.html#14
fuel shut off.
ignore it, if its not working it wouldnt either stop the engine, or allow it to start.
briwy is on this link from the vw forum have a read, they have the same problems we have, maybe an italian tune up may be needed, thats hard to do in limp mode though
https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/li ... ease.6401/
disconnect the diaphragm operator/lever and see how loose the arm is where it goes into the turbo, ideally test the diaphragm by revving the engine past 2000 -2500 revs to see if it moves the diaphragm /arm then back when the revs drop, or it may work the other way round , you may have to operate the arm on the turbo manually after its been lubricated to get the turbo to boost up to give pressure on the pipes to operate the diaphragm arm. this is to see which bit is sticking/failing. if its the variable vane turbo which i think it is the arm into the turbo may feel free until the temps get really hot like when its been running a while, this is because when hot the vanes stick with carbon build up inside, this is the main reason for blocking the egr valve off, the egr puts dirty exhaust air back into the inlet manifold to be reburnt to clean it up to lower the emissions, in this country its not needed as the emissions are low enough to pass the mot here without it . the only down side is you may see higher engine temps as the burn is better from cleaner air.
egr valves. yours should have 2 on it, they are piped via the lump of extra scrap that is the egr gasses cooler,member on here called briwy ripped the lot off and threw it in the bin. the egr valves have position switches on the top so even if the valves are partly working the switch may not register it so it flags up a fault, another well respected long time bongo owner on here spent nearly a year finding this fault. . but we got there eventually, we stripped the switches out and cleaned em, still not right, replaced em, all good.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... o=.html#14
fuel shut off.
ignore it, if its not working it wouldnt either stop the engine, or allow it to start.
briwy is on this link from the vw forum have a read, they have the same problems we have, maybe an italian tune up may be needed, thats hard to do in limp mode though
https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/li ... ease.6401/