Bongo Fury

Hi All

I recently purchased our first bongo “Lexie” and she came with a central locking kit. I currently don’t have any central locking but I think the connector is in the door. Just wondering if anyone knows which cables to use? I’ve check the members area and there is a section on adding the central locking but I can’t read the writing on the pictures.
Any help would be great
Thanks Steve

Hi Steve

I'm not quire sure what you mean by a 'central locking kit'.

Bongos have central locking as standard, but it isn't unusual for the loom to fail where it goes from the A pillar into the driver's door. Years of opening and closing cause the wires to 'work harden' and break.

It's fairly simple to remove the insulation and solder in a short, extra, bit of wire, or you can buy a replacement loom. I wonder if this was bought by the seller and passed on to you?

If so it should be just a case of plugging it in.

Or do you have a remote central locking kit you wish to fit?

Hope that helps us get on track.

Hi Bob
Thanks for your reply. I don’t have any central locking installed in the van at the moment. There is a spare cable with a connector on in the drivers door, but I’m not 100% Sure that it’s the cable that would have been used if there was central locking.
I want to install a remote central locking kit. So adding a actuator to each door lock.

Cheers

Can we make sure we are talking about a Mazda Friendee or Ford Freda ? There are other Mazda Bongo vehicles which will differ!

When you use the key in the drivers door does it lock / unlock all the other doors ? If it doesn't then the most common fault as Bob says above is the drivers door loom has broken at the hinge, repair kits are available on eBay.

She’s a 1996 Mazda Bongo friendee 2.5 2 wheel drive diesel.
I don’t think she’s ever had central locking as there are no actuators on any of the door locks, it’s all manual.

I’ve got a whole new wiring loom with actuators to put in each door. In the drivers door there is a 3 cable plug that doesn’t connect to anything. I think it would have probably done the central locking if it was installed at the factory. I’m not sure which of those 3 cables to use for my to feed my new central locking.


Sorry if that doesn’t make much sense.

Cheers

The wiring diagrams are online here the three wire connector you have is probably K2-01 top left of the diagram, colour codes are shown on each wire and a colour code pop-up table is on the status line. I think the central locking was an option, but its pretty rare to find one without it!

Great thanks that really helps to identify the connector in my door, which is definitely K2-01. The first owners obviously didn't go for the central locking option as I've been around all the doors and although the central locking loom is there, there are no actuators in the doors to operate the locks. Apart from the back door which seems to have the motor built in?
So out of the 3 cables i have i'm assuming i use the L/R for the 12v + to power my remote locking box. Where would i connect the 12v - in?
Also out of the other 2 cables Y/R and W/B which sends the signal to open/close the other doors?

Thanks

Not quite as easy as that! Those connections should go to a switch on the end of the mechanical lock, the Blue/red feeds the common of the switch and the other two wires go to the control module that would be situated in the passenger footwell. Its this that controls the solenoids on the other doors. You won't have the control module, which pulses out the power with the correct polarity to the solenoids in the doors.

Hmm, just checked no controller.
So looks like i'm going to have to run the whole new loom and just power the new central locking controller from the drivers door. Is the Blue/Red a permanent 12V Live?
I saw someone else on another feed tapped into the Black on the Windows as the Negative do you think this will be ok?
I was expecting to run the whole new loom but when i saw the factory loom in place i was hoping i could utilize that.
O well I could always leave it as it is and try and sell her for more money as its a rare version!!
Cheers

Umm, its the unswitched and backup supply fused at 10 Amps, normally your door solenoids will easily pull more than that, if you look at the diagram the solenoids are powered from the 30 Amp fuse which also feeds the controller!

Ahh, ok cool. So if i can find that 30Amp supply White/Green ill Take that to the controller to power the whole central locking System.
Does it matter where i pick the Black up?
Thanks So much for your help its really good to speak to someone who really knows the Vans. This is my first one and i want to learn the basics rather than always getting someone else to do it.

Both power rails +ve and -ve/chassis/earth all have to handle the solenoid currents so normal electrical requirements apply to both connections, don't use an earth/chassis connection that has to run a long way to get back to the common point, so picking up a Black wire in the door is OK for powering the receiver (50ma say) itself BUT don't try to use the same wire for supplying the solenoid current typically 20 Amps, the voltage will drop and horrible spikes will be generated from the inductance of the solenoid winding (several 100's of volts!!).
If the new control module contains the receiver as well as the solenoid switching then it needs to be positioned under the dashboard with a good, short earth connection to chassis, you will have to run wires into the door if you need more than currently available for the switching signals.