window switches
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
window switches
My bongo has at some point had the window switches replaced with the 323 version so switches operate around the wrong way. Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like I can "just" swap the 2 pairs of wires (Orange + red/white with green + red/grey) over on teh edge of the connector and it will revert to working correctly, what am I missing?
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g8dhe
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Re: window switches
That is correct, but check it out with a meter after the wiring changes BEFORE reconnecting the battery, as get the wiring wrong and you will burn out the PCB track inside the switch case, they can be repaired but are a pain to do!
Spherical VisionsRe: window switches
So....
The operation was a success but the patient died!!
I have a short piece of loom that is used to intercept the earth for the central locking so a handy place to perform the swap.
So initially pulled out green+ red/blue pair (driver window motor) And the Orange + Red/white pair (passenger window)
Put the G+R/B pair into the "auto" side and result. Driver window operates perfectly off driver switch with full auto feature.
Put O+R/W pair back in the manual side of the switch and nothing worked on passenger side with either switch regardless of where the child lock button was.
Removed the bit of "intercept loom" with the cross-over in it and got back to passenger window working with auto button but still nothing working off of the passenger switch on the driver-side.
Double checked everything crossed correctly and can't see anything wrong.
Diagnostics made a bit trickier as the passenger side switch on the passenger side has always been a bit dodgy which could be switch or wiring.
All indicators are the passenger side switch is faulty on the driver's side. Struggling to get my hear around it at the moment as I'm freezing.
Given the passenger window switch on the driver control does not work when connected to either window has me thinking I've somehow upset the switch on that side but I'd have though it was passive with just the auto bit of the driver side having anything fancy on it.
There is the potential that the polarities to the motors are reversed so needed to cross as well as swap but in that case I'd have thought the windows would just work backwards rather than blow anything.
Anyone got any thoughts?
Will take another look with fresh eyes and warm hands in the morning but may have to just spring for a replacement switch just to run diags
The operation was a success but the patient died!!
I have a short piece of loom that is used to intercept the earth for the central locking so a handy place to perform the swap.
So initially pulled out green+ red/blue pair (driver window motor) And the Orange + Red/white pair (passenger window)
Put the G+R/B pair into the "auto" side and result. Driver window operates perfectly off driver switch with full auto feature.
Put O+R/W pair back in the manual side of the switch and nothing worked on passenger side with either switch regardless of where the child lock button was.
Removed the bit of "intercept loom" with the cross-over in it and got back to passenger window working with auto button but still nothing working off of the passenger switch on the driver-side.
Double checked everything crossed correctly and can't see anything wrong.
Diagnostics made a bit trickier as the passenger side switch on the passenger side has always been a bit dodgy which could be switch or wiring.
All indicators are the passenger side switch is faulty on the driver's side. Struggling to get my hear around it at the moment as I'm freezing.
Given the passenger window switch on the driver control does not work when connected to either window has me thinking I've somehow upset the switch on that side but I'd have though it was passive with just the auto bit of the driver side having anything fancy on it.
There is the potential that the polarities to the motors are reversed so needed to cross as well as swap but in that case I'd have thought the windows would just work backwards rather than blow anything.
Anyone got any thoughts?
Will take another look with fresh eyes and warm hands in the morning but may have to just spring for a replacement switch just to run diags
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g8dhe
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 10226
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:06 pm
- Location: Worthing, West Sussex.
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Re: window switches
Has it ever worked for you ?
I wonder if the "usual" problem, has happened where by they have been "done" before by someone previously and ended up putting the power straight across the PCB track which causes it to burn out before the fuse blows (the track is rated at less current than the wire) you need to pull the switch apart to see the PCB and see if its been burned out, if so, carefully clean the track and solder a bridge wire across.
I wonder if the "usual" problem, has happened where by they have been "done" before by someone previously and ended up putting the power straight across the PCB track which causes it to burn out before the fuse blows (the track is rated at less current than the wire) you need to pull the switch apart to see the PCB and see if its been burned out, if so, carefully clean the track and solder a bridge wire across.
Re: window switches
Found this…
Switch got a hammering this morning while I was changing a quarterlight. Maybe too much for it?
Switch got a hammering this morning while I was changing a quarterlight. Maybe too much for it?
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g8dhe
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 10226
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:06 pm
- Location: Worthing, West Sussex.
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Re: window switches
Yup that looks like the problem!
Re: window switches
Bridges the broken track and now all working. And around the right way. Guess a rogue door wire caused it to blow but far too cold to be messing with stiff wires. Will just have to pretend it’s not a problem for now!