Bongo Fury

I managed to aquire a BMW clock locally today, just like the ones on ebay. However, it doesn't seem to have any connecting wires attached, just a black plug-socket with three pins. Obviously I am going to have to solder in some wires, as I bet the plugs are either unobtainable, or would cost more than I paid for the clock.

Can anyone tell me which pin is which, to save me having to try and work it out? Looking into the socket, I can see that the pins are numbered 1,2, & 3. Even just the wire colours to each pin will do, as I'm sure there's a thread somewhere on the forum identifying the wires.

Right moonshine, hold it in your hand -

NO! you dirty beast - the CLOCK!!

Look at the back and turn it so that the connector is to the top.

Centre pin is chassis, earth or zero volts.

LH pin is the permanent 12V feed to keep the clock going.

RH pin is for the bulb 12V.

It is not too difficult to remove the white cover.

First remove the black front by releasing the obvious tabs.
Take care to note how the crystal (plastic glass) and +/- knobs are fitted.

Then remove the white cover.
Part of the funny rectangular-ish shaped hole for the connector, the bottom bit (as looked at before), conceals a plastic tab.
Insert a thin flat-bladed screwdriver and lever against the black plastic of the socket connector to press the far recessed end of the tab towards the bulb holder. Simultaneously pull the white housing towards you and away from the clock innards. Takes three hands to do it!

You would then be able to solder wires direct to the pcb.

Takes longer to describe in words than to actually get it apart.

Thanks Pippin. Should be quite easy to solder connections now. It would appear that my clock has no bulb inside, and the RH pin (3) is not used. There is a red domed plastic bit in the centre of the pcb, and a hole in the back of the clock, which I presume is for a bulb holder. I will probably have something that will fit that in one of my odds & s*ds boxes.

I wonder why this one is different from those I have seen advertised on ebay? Don't they have wires attached, and an integral bulb? In all other respects, this unit I have looks identical.

Moonshine / Pippin - v interested to hear where you decide is the neatest point for taking your feed for the light bulb from so as it comes on only when instrument lights are on

Got Mango Bongo back this morning from Bongo Bottom Hospital. God but I could stare at her bum all day - she looks lovelier than ever.

Is it normal to experience this kind of obsessive love for a Bongo? Then again, do I care?

Mike....................I posted before - take the feed from the wire to the dash lights, the nearest one is for the heater controls.

Moonshine, the bulb just fits in the onbvious hole, it is a RU509T indicator & pane; lamp 12V 1.2W pcb.

It would have been handier if the vendor had supplied the connector.

Thanks dandy - I should have been clearer. SOme way back someone thought there might be a ready feed that was easy to Scotchlock (your note said I think that the dash wires would not be) and was part of the main 'bundle' to the radio connector block. Any advice on that?

Mike

Erm, mike? might i be so bold as to enquire as to what is a bongo bottom hospital?

mikeonb4c wrote:Thanks dandy - I should have been clearer. SOme way back someone thought there might be a ready feed that was easy to Scotchlock (your note said I think that the dash wires would not be) and was part of the main 'bundle' to the radio connector block. Any advice on that?

Mike

Dunno Mike.........mine works fine from the dashlight feed.